University of Michigan Historic Organ Tour XXXI

The 38th Historic Organ Tour, sponsored by the University of Michigan and led by Marilyn Mason, took place August 3-20, 1998, entitled "In the Steps of Bach."

For two weeks we journeyed from west to east across the "waistline" of Germany, visiting most of the places where Bach lived, plus Dresden, Gera, and Berlin. Among the organs played by the group were at least three (two Hildebrandts and a Trost) that Bach had proven, and one that Handel had played; 10 organs of Gottfried Silbermann, plus the copy which is in the Silbermann Museum.  In total, we visited 41 organs, playing 30 of them.

Day 1. We arrived in Frankfurt, a group of 35 which included 21 organists.  A long bus ride into what used to be called "East" Germany took the group to Eisenach, where we first visited the Georgenkirche. In a special moment, Marilyn Mason gathered us around the font where Bach was baptized--still in use today. We played the modern baroque-style 3/35 Schuke on the west wall, visited the Bachhaus, and then travelled to Weimar.

Day 2. Walking tour of Weimar and  visit to the city Church of Sts. Peter & Paul where J. G. Walther worked; dark Lucas Cranach altar paintings. Immense live sunflowers on the altar glow in sunlight streaming directly onto them.

Bus to Arnstadt. Lunch at Goldene Sonne with Herr Schockinger, our gracious chef. We played the 1964 2/15 Schuke organ at the Liebfraukirche and visited the Bach Museum. The "Bach Church" where Bach worked 1703-1707 is being renovated.

Short ride to tiny village of Dornheim:  small, lovely white interior of the church where Bach married his first wife, his cousin Maria Barbara Bach.  We played the Scheinfeld 2/16 organ.

Bach worked for the Duke of Weimar from 1708-1717. The palace and chapel where he played have not survived.  Friedemann and C.P.E. were born in a house, the site of which is now occupied by part of our Hotel Elephant.

Day 3. Bus to Muehlhausen, attend Lutheran worship at St. Blasius Church, where Bach worked 1707-8. After the service, pastor greeted us and eloquently explained history of the church in English. Later we played two organs in Gotha.

Day 4. Naumburg, to play at Wenzels-kirche (Church of St. Wenceslaus) the large Hildebrandt organ, originally 3 manuals/54 stops, 75 ranks, that was proved by Bach and Silbermann in 1746 and pronounced good.  Altnikol, Bach's son-in-law, worked there. Irene Greulich, who has played there since 1971, told us that in 1933 the action was electrified; now it is being restored to its original action.  The Rueckpositiv pipes (13 stops, 18 ranks) were the only ranks present;  we played them--what a wonderful sound. The other 3/4 of the remaining facade is empty. Herman Eule of Bautzen is doing the restoration.

Day 5. We visited tiny Rötha, south of Leipzig, and enjoyed the luxury of 11/2 hours each in two churches, each with a Silbermann organ placed, as usual, high on the west wall. Our first Silbermanns--and two of them! We met Maria Schödel, a long-time friend of Marilyn Mason, who for 30 years has been fortunate to have  these two Silbermanns at her disposal.

The Silbermann two-octave pedalboard is placed far to the right compared to American standards. We played pedal pieces at our own risk. Our learning on this trip came not simply from playing, but also from watching, occasionally pulling stops for others, walking around the church to hear the organ from different locations, or just sitting and reveling in the beauty of the sound and the interior of the church. The Marienkirche has a 1722 1/11/12 Silbermann; the St. Georgen-Kirche a 2/23/30 (2 manuals, 23 stops, 30 ranks) from 1721; the latter is the inspiration for the Marilyn Mason Organ at the University of Michigan which was built by Charles Fisk in 1985. As tour group members played, Dr. Mason pulled stops and gave us mini-lessons on site.

Leipzig. We visited the Thomaskirche, where Bach was music director from 1723 until his death in l750. (No organ that Bach played survives here.) We gathered at his grave, placed flowers and sang a hymn together. Bach was no longer simply a name on paper. The fact that he was a human being--who was born, baptized, married, buried one wife, buried some children and raised many others, worked hard and died--seemed new and vivid, the acoustical joys more real, the human griefs more sad, now that we had been in these places.

Days 6, 7. In Dresden to visit Silbermann's last and largest organ (3/47/70) in the Dresden Hofkirche; the next day we played his earliest extant instrument, the only other surviving three-manual, 3/45/68, in the very ornate Freiberg Cathedral. (Freiberg in Saxony, near Dresden.) Bach did not live in Dresden, but he could visit its opera and other wonders from Leipzig.

Day 8. We visited the tiny village of Grosshartsmannsdorf which has a superb 2/21/25+ Silbermann "scraping the ceiling,"  with soft flutes to die for. That evening five of us (Marguerite Thal, Margarete Thomsen, Steven Hoffman, Marian Archibald, Kurt Heyer) played the Kindermann Magnificat and four of us sang the chant in recital in the town of Klettbach. The village church has a lovely 1725 Schroeter 2/16/18+. Some of these tiny churches with lovely old organs are unable to find an organist. Life in the old "East" Germany is quite difficult.  I am tempted to offer to be an interim for a few months!

Day 9. To Altenburg to play the Trost organ that Marilyn Mason will play in recital this evening. The castle church is long and narrow, with the Trost, 2/36/53, filling one long side wall. The organ even includes a Glockenspiel.  Bach played the Trost organ at least twice, around 1739.  Before we tried the sounds, Dr. Felix Friedrich gave us a fine demonstration of the entire instrument. The 16' Quintadena and bowed-sounding Viola da Gamba on the Hauptwerk are amazing. In the afternoon we drove to the small town of Ponitz, where the Silbermann organ is in the front balcony. Silbermann lived in the town for six months in 1736-37 while installing the organ. At the Altenburg Schloss Marilyn Mason's exciting recital displayed the glories of the Trost organ in music by Dandrieu, Couperin, Bach, Calvin Taylor, and Guilmant.

Day 10. We  exchanged greetings at the Silbermann Museum in Frauenstein with the scholar, Werner Mueller, who founded the Museum and has written about Silbermann. We played the lovely 1/7 copy of an organ, the original of which is in Bremen.  Special items: useful model of how a tracker works; map of where Silbermanns are, were played, or were destroyed (several were destroyed in World War II; the masterpiece in the Dresden Hofkirche had been removed and was thus saved); copies and originals of contracts for organs.

Day 11. To  Halle, Wittenberg and Berlin.  In Halle we played both organs in the large church: a small, but powerful, 7-rank which Handel played on the east wall; a large 3/40 opposite it,more recent. We visited the house where Handel was born, now a museum,where there are three small organs. In Wittenberg, we visited the castle church, on which door Luther nailed the 95 theses in 1517.

Day 12. We toured Berlin.

Day 13. Visit to the Kirche zur Frohen Botschaft (Good News Church) in a Berlin suburb, Karlshorst. Organist Roland Muench spoke briefly and demonstrated the wonderful "Princess Amalie" organ, built in 1755 by Peter Migend and played by C.P.E. Bach. The organ has had many homes, but then found rest in this resonant 1905 building, which was used as a stable in the war. This was our last church. We had a fine tour of the Schuke organ shop in the southern suburbs of Berlin.

Day 14. We flew home with many wonderful memories.

Two tours take place in 1999:  U. of M. Historic Tour XXXIX: Italy: Music and Mosaics May 3-13. U. of M. Historic Tour XL: Northern Germany & Schnitger August 3-13. Information from Marilyn Mason 734/764-2500; e-mail  [email protected]

--Marian Archibald

Carl Parks, a freelance writer, is organist-choirmaster of Gloria Dei Lutheran Church in Holmes Beach, Florida, and a past dean of the Sarasota-Manatee Chapter of the American Guild of Organists. Photographs are by the author.

Saxony’s Organs and Bachfest Leipzig 2004: A study tour of Bach, Luther & Silbermann

Every organist dreams of playing the Saxony region’s baroque organs that were designed, performed on, and approved by Johann Sebastian Bach. That, combined with the annual Bachfest Leipzig 2004, proved irresistible.

The annual Bach Festival in Leipzig, Germany--with day trips to hear and play over a dozen historic organs, many known to J. S. Bach--provided 27 of us an unforgettable study tour May 12 to 26. The tour included 16 festival concerts, lectures by Bach scholar Dr. Christoph Wolff of Harvard University, guided tours of the cities visited, and the opportunity for masterclasses with Thomaskirche organist Ulrich Böhme. It was Historic Organ Tour 50 led by the University of Michigan’s University Organist Dr. Marilyn Mason.

After a bus tour and night in Berlin, we proceeded on May 14 to Wittenberg. Our walking tour took us through the Luther House, which is the world’s largest museum of Reformation history, and the Schloßkirche, where Martin Luther presented his 95 theses and is now buried. After lunch next door in the Schloßkeller we arrived in Leipzig on time for the festival’s opening concert at the Thomaskirche, where Bach was Kantor for 27 years. Three settings of Psalm 98, by Bach (BWV 225 and 190) and Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (Opus 91) were given a world-class performance by the church’s boys’ choir, soloists, and the Gewandhaus orchestra conducted by Georg Christoph Biller. The Sinfonia in D from the Easter Oratorio (BWV 249) opened the concert.

Leipzig

Our walking tour of Leipzig the next morning showed a city coming to life again since the collapse of the German Democratic Republic (DDR) and the reunification of Germany. Construction is everywhere. Historic buildings are being cleaned and restored, while the big, vacant housing projects and other Stalinist architecture are about to be torn down. One grim building about to be razed sits on the site of the University Church, which the Communists dynamited. The church will be rebuilt with an organ designed but never built by Gottfried Silbermann, the great master of organ building during the baroque era. Unfortunately, unemployment in Leipzig is around 20 percent, while in other eastern cities of the former DDR it is as high as 28 percent.

Leipzig is a city of music. Excellent street musicians play the classics everywhere within the ancient confines of this once-walled burg. Walks to the Bach Museum, Mendelssohn House, Musical Instrument Museum or a concert are always a treat. We often paused to hear a flautist, a xylophonist, even a full brass choir playing Henry Purcell’s Trumpet Tune in D.

Thomaskirche

The first of Saturday’s three festival concerts opened with Ulrich Böhme playing Bach’s Passacaglia and Fugue on the Bach Organ in the north gallery of Thomaskirche. This 4-manual, 60-stop organ was built by Woehl in 2000 and replaces an earlier 3-manual instrument built in 1966 by Schuke. It duplicates the organ that Bach knew as a boy in Eisenach. While its location is certainly not what Bach would specify, the large-scale principals and overall tonal design provide the “gravitas” he found so necessary. And the organ sounds well throughout the church despite its location on the side. Jürgen Wolf playing all 30 Goldberg Variations on harpsichord at Nikolaikirche followed. The evening concert in the Gewandhaus featured fortepianos and orchestra in performances of Bach and Mendelssohn works.

Sunday’s services at Thomaskirche and Nikolaikirche are like those in Bach’s day and always include the performance of a Bach cantata at the liturgy of the word. The afternoon festival concert, again on the Thomaskirche Bach Organ, was a reconstruction of Mendelssohn’s organ recital of August 6, 1840, performed by Michael Schönheit. His improvisation on the Passion Chorale in the style of Mendelssohn was similar in structure to the Sixth Sonata and brought a standing ovation, a much less common occurrence in Europe than the United States.

Among the many excellent concerts, Matthias Eisenberg’s Ascension Day performance of  Max Reger’s Fantasie and Fugue on B-A-C-H stands out in particular. The entire sell-out crowd remained through a long, standing ovation until he improvised an equally stunning encore on Thomaskirche’s west gallery organ. That instrument was built by Wilhelm Sauer in 1899, who then extended it to 88 stops in 1907. A fund to restore this big tubular pneumatic has so far raised 100,000 of the 300,000 euros being sought.

Nikolaikirche

A similar romantic organ is almost restored in the west gallery of Nikolaikirche, but was not ready for this year’s Bachfest. It was built by Friedrich Ladegast in 1862 and expanded to 84 stops by Sauer from 1902 to 1903. Near the apse, the church also has a 17-stop organ that was built by Eule in 2002 in the style of Italian organs of the baroque era. As Kantor of Thomaskirche, J. S. Bach was also was the city’s civic director of music, giving him duties at Nikolaikirche. Thus, it was here that many of his cantatas and other works were performed for the first time.

Rötha

A bus trip on May 17 took us to Rötha, a city with two Silbermann organs. Dedicated in 1721 by Johann Kuhnau, the Silbermann in St. George church was the model for the Marilyn Mason Organ built by Fisk for the University of Michigan. A smaller Silbermann at St. Mary’s church was dedicated in 1722. Some of our group joined a masterclass with Ulrich Böhme, while others went on to Weimar. The pedalboards on these old Silbermann organs take some getting used. Not only are they flat, but the spacing is different from modern pedalboards. They also lack a low C-sharp and other notes at the top end. As Marilyn Mason explained, heel and toe pedaling worked out for pieces learned on a modern pedalboard must be changed to a technique using mostly the toes.

European acoustics demand slower tempi and proper phrasing to a greater extent then the dry acoustics of most American churches. For speech reinforcement, Germans take an approach that differs from our boom-box public address systems. Stässer loudspeakers, measuring approximately 18 x 21/2 x 21/2 inches, are mounted on each of a church’s columns, with electronic reinforcement delayed to match the time sound takes to travel. This permits clarity of the spoken word without compromising the divine ambiance for which the music was composed.

Gottfried Silbermann

Gottfried Silbermann was born in 1683, the son of a craftsman-woodworker. From 1702 to 1707 he studied organ-building with his elder brother Andreas in Strasbourg and Thiery in Paris. A condition was that Gottfried would not work in his brother’s territory. So in 1710 Gottfried returned to his native Saxony and set up shop centrally in Freiberg. His first commission was for a small, one-manual and pedal, 15-stop organ for his hometown of Frauenstein. So well-received was this first instrument, completed in 1711, that in the same year Freiberg’s Dom St. Marien (Cathedral of St. Mary) invited the young builder, then only 28 years old, to construct a new organ of three manuals and pedal with 44 stops. This was completed in 1714. Thereafter Silbermann built some 45 instruments, 31 of which are still extant. All are located within or very close to the Saxon borders. 

Gottfried Silbermann was given the official title of Court Organbuilder by Frederick I, at that time King of Poland and Duke of Saxony. Similarly, J. S. Bach had the title of Court Composer. The two were great friends, and often discussed the techniques and acoustics of organ building. Silbermann was Carl Philipp Emmanuel Bach’s godfather and a regular visitor to the Bach home in Leipzig. The two even worked together on the escapement mechanism for the world’s first fortepianos.

Silbermann believed that an organ should look as beautiful as it sounds, and his organ cases are truly beautiful. Also, in a play on words of his name, this “silver man” was known for the silver sound of his pipes. His organs typically have a Hauptwerk that is scaled for gravitas, a Brustwerk scaled to be delicate, an Oberwerk to be penetrating, and a Pedal scaled for a grandness of sound that produces foundation without necessarily using a lot of pipes. Compared to Arp Schnitger, the organs of Silbermann are more spacious with the pipes less densely arranged. 

Eisleben and Halle

Another bus trip took us to Eisleben. Here we visited the houses where Martin Luther was born and died, and the church where he was baptized. Further on in Halle, we stopped to play two organs in the Marktkirche, where Georg Friedrich Händel was baptized and learned to play the organ. That organ is a one-manual instrument of six stops built in 1664 by Reichel. It has all of its original pipes as well as meantone tuning. At the other end is a much larger organ in a baroque case. It is a three-manual, 40-stop instrument built by Schuke in 1984. Both had recently been restored, following extensive damage to the church from a broken city steam pipe. We then visited the Handel House, which has several chamber organs, and we took turns playing the newly restored organ built by Johann Gottlieb Mauer in 1770.

Altenburg, Störmthal and Pomßen

On May 21 we visited Altenburg. It is here that Heinrich Trost built an organ in the Schloßkirche from 1736 to 1739, the same year Bach played it. Eule restored it in the mid-1970s. After walking up well-worn stone steps in one of the castle’s circular stairwells, we found ourselves in the balcony opposite this magnificent instrument. Demonstrating was Dr. Felix Friedrich, a scholar of Johann Ludwig Krebs. Marilyn Mason, who was familiar with the instrument, pulled stops for those of us who played and offered suggestions. Among the more interesting stops is a viola that speaks with an attack and harmonic development nearly identical to that of a bowed string instrument, making it ideal for trio sonatas. 

Further on in the village church of Störmthal is the only Hildebrandt organ still in its original condition. Zacharias Hildebrandt was a student of Gottfried Silbermann. He built the two-manual instrument that was inspected and approved by his friend J. S. Bach in 1723. Kantor Thomas Orlovski demonstrated the instrument and registered it for those of us who played. 

The afternoon took us to Pomßen’s 750-year-old Wehrkirche. Originally built as a fortress, this Romanesque church is home to the oldest organ in Saxony. The instrument has one manual and pedals that play 12 stops, plus a Cimbelstern and Vogelgesang. Built in 1570, the organ was purchased second-hand to save money, and it was installed in 1690. It has been well maintained since its restoration in 1934 and was a thrill to play. 

Naumburg

Several of us had expressed an interest in playing the newly restored organ in Wenzelkirche, Naumburg, which was not on our tour. It is the largest instrument built by Zacharias Hildebrandt from 1743 to 1746, comprising 53 stops on three manuals and pedals. His old teacher Gottfried Silbermann examined the instrument and approved it, finding it to be as beautiful as his own but much larger. J. S. Bach had assisted with its design; and, when he played it, he found all the qualities he liked: thundering basses, strong mixtures, and beautiful solo stops. We convinced enough in our group to charter a bus and rent the organ the morning of May 22. 

Words can describe neither the baroque splendor nor the divine ambience of the vast St. Wenzel interior. There, Kantor Irene Greulich demonstrated the organ. Frau Greulich is a fine organist who has performed and given masterclasses at the University of Michigan. She and Marilyn Mason have a friendship that began before Germany’s reunification, when the organ had been playable from an electro-pneumatic console of the 1930s in the balcony below. They registered the organ for those of us who played, thus ensuring that nobody touched the original pen and ink inscriptions in the drawknobs.

A walk to the Dom SS. Peter and Paul revealed a handsome new organ under construction in a fenced-in area in the nave. No information was available, but among the pipes to be installed were wooden resonators, presumably for a Posaune. The building is late Romanesque and Gothic from the 13th century.

That evening we attended a very fine concert of The Creation by Joseph Haydn at the Hochschüle for Music and Theater. It was sung by soloists and choir from the school and the Leipzig Baroque Orchestra, Roland Borger conducting. We heard it as Die Schöpfung, Haydn’s own translation from English for German audiences.

The last day of Bachfest included breathtaking performances of the St. Matthew Passion, the Mass in B Minor, and pieces written for organ, four hands, played by Ulrich Böhme and his wife Martina at Thomaskirche. The Matthäus-Passion performance was a reconstruction of that given by Mendelssohn on April 4, 1841. Thus, orchestration made use of instruments that had replaced those of Bach’s time. A continuo organ was played with the orchestra. The chorales, however, made use of the Gewandhaus’ 89-stop instrument built in 1981 by the Schuke-Orgelbau of Potsdam. The festival closing concert of the B-minor Mass was in Thomaskirche, with 85-year-old Eric Ericson conducting.

Freiberg and Frauenstein

After we checked out of our hotel, our bus took us southeast to Freiberg. There, in the Freiberg Dom we played two fine Silbermann organs. The larger was built from 1711 to 1714 and has a particularly remarkable case with ornamentation by Johann Adam Georgi. It has 44 stops across three manuals and pedal. The small organ of 1719 has 14 stops on one manual and pedal. 

We continued to the Silbermann Museum in Frauenstein, located in a medieval castle, and the only organ museum devoted to just one builder. There, Dr. Marilyn Mason played a short recital on the museum’s replica of a Silbermann organ. It is a copy by Wegscheider Organ Builders, Dresden, of an instrument Silbermann built in 1732 for Etzdorf, and is a working model demonstrating the basic principles of Baroque organ construction.

Part of the attraction of a Marilyn Mason tour is her ability to unlock the doors to organ lofts. She was the first woman to have played in Westminster Abbey, Egypt, and many other places around the world. She is also a very helpful coach in unlocking the secrets of performance for a broad array of organ literature. Dr. Mason offered our group many pointers on the performance of baroque music, and personally advised me on ways to practice the difficult passages and tricky rhythms of Jehan Alain’s Trois Danses, which she had worked out for her own brilliant performances.

Dresden

In Dresden, our excellent tour leader, Franz Mittermayr of Matterhorn Travel, treated us with a surprise visit to the Hofkirche (Roman Catholic cathedral). There we played the magnificent three-manual, 47-stop Silbermann of 1755 that had been hidden in the countryside during World War II. This cathedral was destroyed in the allied firebombing, but the organ was back among us in a newly restored building. For that we gave grateful thanks. Unfortunately, another fine Silbermann in the Frauenkirche was destroyed. A 3-million euro restoration of that church is nearing completion using original, numbered stones wherever possible. A new organ will replicate the destroyed Silbermann. 

It has been said that Germany has too many churches. This is because, like elsewhere, church attendance is down. In Germany approximately nine percent of the population is Protestant, while two percent is Roman Catholic. In the former DDR of Eastern Germany under the Communists, religion was discouraged, so attendance fell even further. Maintaining and restoring these ancient churches is beyond the reach of most congregations, so they survive through tourism and entrance fees. Many are considered museums and are given government funding. In Naumburg, for example, the city paid for the restoration of the Hildebrandt organ. On average, a group pays an entrance fee of 150 euros or about $185 U.S. for each church visited. In Leipzig, the group paid entrance fees on top of concert ticket prices. This was all included in the cost of our tour. An organist traveling alone to play benefit recitals will pay rental fees of similar amounts. 

For a first visit to the Saxony region, this tour provided the best way to play these instruments and learn about them. While our personal playing times were seldom more than five minutes each, the cost was spread over the entire group. An organ tour also makes all the preliminary arrangements to open doors that are otherwise locked. The University of Michigan is known for its excellent tours, and this one proved why. Matterhorn Travel provided us with a guide who had extensive knowledge of the area, numerous contacts, and the ability to run things so smoothly that we never encountered delays.

"In the Steps of Bach and Luther"

Francine Maté is the organist/choirmaster and the director of the Bach Festival at Grace Episcopal Church in Washington, D.C. She is also a music copyright examiner in the U.S. Copyright Office in the Library of Congress. Dr. Maté received both her M.M. and D.M.A. in organ performance from The University of Michigan as a student of Marilyn Mason.

On July 10, 2003, I began one of the most interesting trips of my life, The University of Michigan's 49th Historic Tour led by Marilyn Mason. This was my first trip to Germany, and was less than two days after my Bach organ recital which concluded the Grace Church, Georgetown, Bach Festival. Bach's music in my heart and fingers, off I went to play, examine and hear some of the organs on which Johann Sebastian Bach played and performed.

The trip across the Atlantic was my fourth, the first being in 1982, and the last in 1996. Technology and terrorism made for differences in this trip from the other three trips. On the technology side, computer/television monitors located throughout the aircraft mapped our progress across the Atlantic. An on-time arrival in Frankfurt on Friday morning allowed me to team up with others coming from other cities, including Marilyn Mason, and we had a chance to catch up before departing on an Airbus to Berlin.

I was able to see the Berlin skyline on this clear and beautiful day. We gathered our bags, and shortly our trip tour guide, Franz, and our bus driver, Rheinhart, met us and ferried us off to the bus which would be our transport for our two weeks in Germany. Our hotel in Berlin was located only about two blocks from the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. This church was heavily bombed in World War II, and, like Coventry Cathedral in England, has been rebuilt on the adjacent ground with a modern church. The bombed out older church was left basically as it was after the bombing.

Naumburg

We left Berlin on Saturday morning to proceed to Naumburg for five nights. En route, we spent the morning and afternoon in Wittenburg. Although we did not play or hear the organ at the Schlosskirche in Wittenburg, we learned much of Luther's history from a devoted tour guide. Even though Bach would have probably been a highly acclaimed composer and musician if he were only to be a court musician, the Lutheran Reformation most certainly set the stage for Bach's career.

The Zacharias Hildebrandt organ in the Wenzelskirche in Naumburg has one of the most beautiful organ cases that we saw on the trip as well as a remarkable sound. One of Bach's sons-in-law was the organist here, and in 1746 Bach traveled from Leipzig to Naumburg to examine the final installation of the instrument. We were fortunate not only to play this beautiful three-manual instrument, but also hear three organ recitals and attend a lecture about the organ given by Mr. Verner from the Eule Organ Company. Mr. Verner had recently completed the restoration of the instrument to its original state, and is currently restoring the organ in the Nikolaikirche in Leipzig.

Marilyn Mason performed one organ recital, and Irene Greulich, the organist at the Wenzelskirche, performed two additional recitals. Dr. Mason's recital included pieces from every period in Bach's life and ended with the Toccata in C, BWV 564.

This beautiful tracker instrument was changed to electro-pneumatic action in 1933. The restoration by Mr. Verner and the Eule Organ Company included returning the organ to its original mechanical action. There was some damage from bombs in 1944 during World War II, and therefore, some pipes had to be replaced. Many of the older pipes were taken to metallurgy laboratories for chemical analysis to match the new metal to the original metal. There were seven bellows on the original Naumburg instrument, and all could be worked by one person. The person pumping the bellows read the musical score of the work being played in order to know how much wind was needed.

The Hildebrandt organ, as all the organs we played in Germany, is pitched up one step. Pedalboards and keyboards on each of the organs we played were each unique. Unlike the American AGO pedalboard, there is no uniformity in these German Baroque pedalboards except for the fact that they are all flat. The pedalboard of the organ at the Wenzelskirche for example is quite large, and middle C on the manuals did not line up with the pedals as I'm used to. I was so excited to play my first Bach organ, but these adjustments combined with hearing the music up one step threw me for a loop! I had a concern before the trip that the benches would be too high for me, since I'm 5¢1≤ tall. They were all workable for me, thank goodness.

Eisenach

On Bastille Day, July 14, we headed off to Eisenach, Bach's birthplace and a city Martin Luther lived in as a young child. We visited the Georgenkirche where Bach was baptized. The same baptismal font used to baptize Bach is still in the front of the church. Marilyn Mason pointed out to us that we would see three baptismal fonts on this trip: Bach's, Handel's and Luther's. Although Bach had his first organ lessons here, the organ in the Georgenkirche is not the same one Bach played.

Our next stop was Wartburg Castle which is high up on a mountain in Eisenach. Our bus took us most of the way up, but we hiked the remainder on this cool and sunny day. The views from the top of the mountain and Wartburg Castle were spectacular. The German countryside was beautiful. Living close to Northern Virginia, I found the part of Germany where we traveled, as well as the view from Wartburg Castle into the valley below, to be very similar to Virginia. There were many farms, green everywhere and rolling hills. There were also many unusual windmills that we could see here as well as all over the countryside. Franz told us that the blades sometimes simply take off and whirl until they hit something! The inside of Wartburg Castle is extremely ornate, and seeing the room where Martin Luther lived and translated the New Testament of the Bible was breathtaking.

Waltershausen

On July 15 we started our day out in the city of Waltershausen at the Stadtkirche which has a newly restored three-manual Trost organ. The sound of the organ is magnificent and powerful, and the organ case is extremely ornate and beautiful. The organist, Theophil Heinke, met us there and assisted with stop pulling as we played, in addition to giving us a demonstration. This instrument is the largest Baroque organ in Thuringia. The keys were somewhat difficult to play, but the pedalboard was user friendly.

Arnstadt

We then proceeded to the Bachkirche in Arnstadt. The organ is not the instrument Bach played, but the organ loft is the one in which Bach and Maria Barbara were supposedly caught kissing before they were married! There are seven historic stops from Bach's time on this instrument. The town square just outside the church has a modern statue of the young Bach.

Altenburg

Our next stop was the city of Altenburg. We visited the Altenburg castle and the chapel on the castle grounds. There is a Trost organ in the chapel and it is virtually in the same condition as it was when Bach played a recital there in 1739. The two-manual organ was one of my favorites on our trip. The sound is glorious, and the fact that Bach played this same instrument as it now is made the event memorable. And, last but not least, the keydesk and pedalboard felt like the organ at my church at home built by A. David Moore! Some of the metal pipes were removed in World War II, but later the organ was restored to its original state. In addition to playing this wonderful organ, we saw a fascinating group of statues above the altar in front of the chapel portraying Roman soldiers viewing the risen Christ.

On July 17, we departed Naumburg, and the entire staff at the hotel were on hand to wave goodbye to our bus. We proceeded to Eisleben where Martin Luther was born and where he died. Luther preached four sermons at St. Andrew's Church in Eisleben just before he died. There were two funeral services for him, one at this church and then another in Wittenburg where he was buried under the pulpit in the Schlosskirche.

Halle

In Halle we visited the Handel House and the Marktkirche. Samuel Scheidt was organist at the Marktkirche from 1628 to 1630, and Friedrich Wilhelm Zachow from 1684 to 1713. In the Marktkirche we saw the baptismal font of Handel, yet another touching sight. We know that Handel studied organ with Zachow and played the instrument here. The Handel House in Halle has a quite extensive collection of scores, instruments and paintings. Bach was offered a position at the Marktkirche, but he declined because the salary was not sufficient.

Leipzig

After visiting Halle, we made our way to Leipzig, Bach's home from 1723 until his death in 1750. One of our first excursions was to visit the Thomaskirche where Bach was organist and cantor. We placed flowers on his grave in the Thomaskirche.

Attending the 9:30 service on July 20 at the Thomaskirche was a most touching experience. Although the organs are not the ones Bach played, we do know that Bach's organ music sounded in this very space. Bach is buried in the front of the church, and there are always flowers on his grave. The flowers that our group placed on his grave on Friday were very lovingly placed in a vase by the time we returned for church on Sunday morning. The Bachchor of Stuttgart was the choir for the day, and Ullrich Böhme was the organist. The choir sang many movements of Bach motets, and the postlude was the Fugue in g minor, BWV 578. Each hymn was introduced by a chorale prelude just as would have been done by Bach. Everyone sat and listened to the postlude and then left in silence.

Rötha

Next, we found ourselves in the tiny little town of Rötha which is just outside of Leipzig. There are two wonderful Silbermann organs in Rötha: a stunning two-manual in St. George's Church, and a splendid little one-manual in St. Mary's Church. The Marilyn Mason Organ at The University of Michigan, built by Fisk, is very similar to the Silbermann at St. George's, and Charles Fisk did extensive study of the Silbermann organs in Germany before building that organ. Having now played them both, I can affirm that both instruments are works of art.

I was surprised that after a lifetime of thinking the only wonderful organs were those having four or five manuals, I absolutely loved the one-manual Silbermann in St. Mary's Church! Bill Gudger did a wonderful job of stop pulling for me as I played the "St. Anne" Prelude. Susan Broughton, the organist at the two churches in Rötha, was very helpful to us during our stay in that lovely town.

Störmthal

We left Rötha, and traveled to the village of Störmthal which is very close to both Rötha and Leipzig. The organ in the Dorfkirche in Störmthal is another delightful one-manual, and is the only Hildebrandt that is still in its original condition. The organ was probably designed by Gottfried Silbermann. The façade pipes were removed during World War I and were replaced by tin façade pipes during a renovation in 1934. The organ was installed in 1723, and Bach examined and accepted the organ. He performed the dedication recital on November 2, 1723, in which he directed his Cantata No. 194.

Pomssen

We heard and played the oldest organ in Saxony in the Wehrkirche, located in the little town of Pomssen. We were treated to a short recital by Professor Burger from Leipzig which included a piece by the Spanish Baroque composer Francisco Correa. The Wehrkirche was first a Romanesque church. The late Renaissance and early Baroque saw Italian influences, and one painting in the church comes from Italy. The first organ was built in the early 17th century, but the builder is not known. Bach came here and conducted his Cantata No. 157 which was commissioned by this church. The lovely one-manual organ has 15 stops. The Wehrkirche was one of the few churches we visited that had pew boxes. I did not play this instrument because Professor Burger told us that there are bats living in the organ loft!

Berlin

Our final organ to visit was the Amalia organ in Berlin. Beate Kruppke is the organist there. She was so very gracious on this warm, dry day to have bottled water and juices for us to drink on our arrival in the afternoon. She played a short program for us which included a set of variations by Georg Böhm. C.P.E. Bach wrote his six keyboard sonatas for this very organ.

One of our many side trips was a bus/walking tour of Berlin. I had not realized before how large the city is. Many tour books suggest that even avid walkers often resort to taking the bus or hailing a cab. Some "cabs" were bicycles with seats in the back for their riders! Berlin has many museums, and one could spend days just going to museums. The former Berlin Wall was breathtaking and the Brandenburg Gate spectacular. Napoleon "took" the statue on the top of the Brandenburg Gate, but it is now back to its original state. There are now modern statues across the street of cannons protecting the Brandenburg Gate.

We had a wonderful farewell dinner on our last night together in Berlin. Marilyn Mason had told us earlier in the trip that she wanted us each on that last night to tell something significant about what the trip meant to us. Each person had such insightful thoughts, and I enjoyed all of my discussions and experiences with all the people on the trip. My thanks to Marilyn Mason for making this superb trip possible! The German people were so wonderful to us all, and thanks to Franz and Rheinhart for their care of us.

Photos are by the author unless indicated otherwise.Francine Maté

"Out of Love for This Famous Place--Proposal for a New Organ for St. Paul's Church"

Ullrich Böhme was born in Saxony, and his interest in the organ was inspired by the baroque organ in his home church in the village of Rothenkirchen. He studied at the Church Music School in Dresden and later at the Leipzig College of Music. After passing his state exam, he served as cantor and organist in Chemnitz, but in 1985, the 300th anniversary year of Bach's birth, he was chosen from many applicants to become the organist at St. Thomas Church, Leipzig. He has toured through Europe, North America, and Japan, and he also serves as professor at the Felix Mendelssohn College of Music and Theater in Leipzig. In 2000 he made a recording on the New Bach Organ at St. Thomas, which is available through OHS.

Prelude:

When the City Council of Leipzig in 1723 named Johann
Sebastian Bach Cantor and Director of Music, he was given responsibility for
the music of four churches: St. Thomas, St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and the New
Church. St. Thomas was restored over a ten-year period and rededicated in 2000
on the 250th anniversary of Bach's death. St. Nicholas just finished a
renovation and will dedicate a restored and enlarged Ladegast organ in October.
St. Peter was torn down in 1886, and the New Church (later known as St. Matthew)
was destroyed in the bombing of World War II.

Bach also had responsibilities at St. Paul's or the
University Church during festival days and during fair periods with the
Collegium Musicum. St. Paul's was destroyed on May 30, 1968 by the GDR.
It was literally blown up to make way for the Karl Marx University, a hulking
concrete eyesore that sits at the edge of the Augustus Platz overlooking the
Gewandhaus and Opera House. Before and after pictures on the 25th anniversary
of this travesty appeared on the front page of the "Leipziger
Volkszeitung" in 2003 during the Bach Festival. The images were stunning
and disturbing. Now history is about to take a new course and so Ullrich
Böhme writes:

The decision to construct a new building for the University
of Leipzig is good news. The design by the Dutch architect, Erick van Egeraat,
should become a reality in the near future. Central to van Egeraat's
design for the building complex is St. Paul's Church. From the outside
the building will have a distinctively modern façade, but inside the
design will draw heavily on the configuration of the old hall churches with
their late Gothic webbed arches, very much like St. Thomas Church.

The university administration has decided that the church or
"aula" (auditorium) should have an organ. But how should one
envision this instrument?

The University of Leipzig numbers among the oldest German
universities and looks back on a 600-year history. Certainly no ordinary organ,
such as we too often find in many churches and concert halls, should be built
here. On the contrary, it should be a very special instrument that uniquely
relates to the tradition and history of this site.

Historically the old St. Paul's Church appears to have
had little luck with its organs. The earliest organ can be traced back to the
15th century, which after a renovation in 1528 had a specification of 15 stops
with its placement believed to have been on the south wall. In the 17th century
it is reported that there were many unsuccessful attempts to restore this
instrument by such famous organ builders as Heinrich and Esaias Compenius.

In the years 1711 to 1716 the Leipzig organ builder, Johann
Scheibe, built a 48-stop organ with three manuals and pedal using parts from
the old organ. The approval and recommendation to accept the organ was made by
J.S. Bach, who certified that the organ builder indeed had constructed the
organ "with good diligence." And, as Bach noted, the organ, except
for several limitations and problems, otherwise sounded fine. On the other
hand, already in 1741 Johann Andreas Silbermann (1712-1783) wrote a very
negative assessment of this organ.

The next instrument at St. Paul's was made by Johann
Gottlob Mende (1787-1850) and dates from 1844. Mende's preserved
instrument was recognized for its solid workmanship, and yet the highly
respected Prof. Heinrich Magirius, author and historical curator, wrote in 1995
that this organ at St. Paul's was "not much good."

In the 19th and 20th centuries the organ builders Friedrich
Ladegast, Julius and Johannes Jahn, and Hermann Eule worked on the organ at St.
Paul's. In the 1950s the instrument was provided with electric action,
but recordings from this period give the impression that the work was not of
high quality.

At the beginning of the 18th century a truly breathtaking
sensation took place in the organ history of the University of Leipzig.
Gottfried Silbermann (1683-1753), regarded by many to be the most
significant and famous organ builder of all time, created an organ proposal for
St. Paul's.

Beginning in 1702 Gottfried Silbermann learned the craft of
organ building from his older brother, Andreas, in Strasbourg, Alsace, and
built several organs there with him. In 1710 Gottfried Silbermann returned to
Saxony to establish his livelihood as an organ builder in Germany.

In the same year he became acquainted with the most
important musical personality of Leipzig at that time, Johannes Kuhnau
(1660-1722), who was Cantor at St. Thomas and the University Music
Director. Kuhnau apparently recognized the extraordinary talent of this young
organ builder, for in a letter he praised Silbermann's
"quintessential mathematical and mechanical knowledge of organ
building." He called Silbermann's attention to the planned project
at St. Paul's and recommended him to the university.

Silbermann was prepared for the meeting before the
Professors' Council on November 20, 1710 by the University Rector
himself, and, as a result of his presentation, Silbermann was given the
assignment to "examine" the old, defective organ at St.
Paul's and "to make a proposal for building a (new) organ."

The university archive has preserved two of
Silbermann's handwritten and signed documents, both dated on the 27th of
November, 1710. The first is addressed to the Magnificae Academiae Rector
("Magnificent Rector of the School") and contains a detailed
examination of the old organ. In this report Silbermann establishes in graphic
detail why he "regrets that the problems of the organ are such that
continuing repairs of the instrument could not produce results to the
satisfaction of the university."

Indeed he would discourage "patching up the old
work" and recommends to the university "providing a completely new
organ according to the enclosed specification of 43 stops, some of which have
not been known in Germany, but have enjoyed the greatest admiration in France
for their inherently charming sound."

The second document contains a detailed specification of a
large organ with 44 stops on three manuals and pedal (University of Leipzig
Archives, Signatur II / III No. 6 / Litt. B / Sect. II, Bl. 15, 16). (See box
page 25)

Unfortunately, the assignment for the organ was not given to
Gottfried Silbermann, but to Johann Scheibe instead. It was surely difficult
for those who were accountable to the university at the time to judge whether
the young organ builder from Freiberg was a genius or a braggart endowed with
exaggerated self-confidence. For in Germany he could not show a single completed
organ.

A few years later, however, it was clear that an error in
judgment had been made. Silbermann was to build about 45 organs in Middle
Germany, of which 32 are preserved to this day. His instruments stand in little
village churches with dry acoustics and in cathedrals with long reverberation.

Everywhere his organs sound wonderful and have an
indescribable effect on every hearer. Already in his own lifetime Silbermann
attained a legendary fame, which throughout the centuries to our own day has
lost none of its luster, even with all the changes in musical taste.

If, in fact, Silbermann had built the organ at St.
Paul's back then in 1710, then many things in Leipzig's history
would have turned out quite differently. To build what could have been one of
his greatest works he would have established an organ workshop in Leipzig.
Perhaps he would have remained in Leipzig, and the city and its surroundings
would have the number of Silbermann organs that we now find in Freiberg and
that region.

And--perhaps a Silbermann organ at St. Paul's
would have inspired Johann Sebastian Bach, who later became Thomascantor in
1723, to produce even more magnificent organ compositions than we now have.
Ultimately there is a high probability that the GDR authorities in 1968 would not
have dared to demolish a church which featured a great Silbermann organ.

All these considerations lead one to the idea that after 300
years we should now consider realizing Gottfried Silbermann's organ
proposal for St. Paul's Church/Aula. The construction of a new university
building therefore provides a unique opportunity. The new St. Paul's
could have a beautiful sounding instrument full of character, which would
attract organ lovers from all the over the world. Building such an organ now
creates an opportunity to realize the beautiful sound of a historic instrument,
that the Leipzig region would be enriched with heretofore unavailable colors.

The scientific discussion that would ensue with building an
18th-century instrument would be appropriate for a university organ project. It
would be similar to the impressive reconstruction of a North German Baroque
organ inspired by Arp Schnitger (1648-1719) undertaken by the University
of Göteborg's Organ Art Center (GOArt) and completed in 2000 in the
Örgryte New Church. Silbermann's organ in the 1714 Freiberg
Cathedral--many experts regard it his most beautiful work--provides
an original of the same period for a study course in the art of his organ
building.

Finally, the City of Leipzig could deliberately take a
different approach than the authorities of Dresden's Frauenkirche, who
have spent all these years and money restoring the church stone by stone, but
who have decided against the reconstruction of a Silbermann organ, a decision
deplored by numerous well-known organ experts.

The organ case of the Dresden Frauenkirche was designed by
the church's chief architect, George Bähr. Certainly an architect
such as Erick van Egeraat with his ingenuity and stature could create a truly
beautiful organ case, whether classical or modern, for a Silbermann organ in
Leipzig.

In reconstructing this 1710 Silbermann organ Leipzig and the
university would be expressing its history, realizing its destiny and
fulfilling a great promise for the future.

Postlude:

Ullrich Böhme's title "Out of Love for This
Famous Place" was inspired by Silbermann's words from the last
paragraph of his proposal.

You can see Erick van Egeraat's conception of the
University of Leipzig project for St. Paul's by going to their website,
<www.eea-architects.com&gt;. Click on Projects, then Public, and then
University of Leipzig. Note that Silbermann did not design or build his own
casework, but had this work done by local craftsmen.

Bach did have a relationship with Gottfried Silbermann. In
fact, he played recitals on two of Silbermann's instruments in
Dresden--at St. Sophia's (Sophienkirche) in 1731 where William
Friedemann later became organist and at the Frauenkirche in 1736 on a new
three-manual. Both organs were destroyed in the bombing of 1945, but the
Frauenkirche is now scheduled for rededication in 2006. In 1746 Bach and
Silbermann were the examiners of Zacharias Hildebrandt's organ at St.
Wenzel's Church in Naumburg.

Recordings have been made of all the Silbermann organs,
including the Freiberg Cathedral, and are available from the Organ Historical
Society at <www.ohscatalog.org&gt;. Take special note of Querstand's
eight-volume CD collection of all his organs. Go to "Search," enter
Silbermann and click.

For discussions on the decision by the Dresden Frauenkirche
not to reconstruct the Silbermann organ of 43 stops, but instead to install a
larger, modern organ of 65 stops by Daniel Kern of Strasbourg, do a Google
search for "Silbermann Frauenkirche Dresden" for websites and
possible translation of German texts.

Jeffrey K. Chase is a practicing attorney in Ann Arbor, Michigan, with a concentration in the area of estate planning. He is a member of the bar of the United States Supreme Court. Prior to becoming an attorney, he earned a bachelor’s degree in music literature and a master’s degree in musicology. He has been a published feature writer and music critic for The Michigan Daily and The Detroit Free Press and has also written for High Fidelity magazine. Currently he also reviews classical music compact discs for All Music Guide, an online music reference source.

What a special trip the Marilyn Mason University of Michigan Historic Organ Tour 54 this past July 9–22 was, tracing the cities and churches limning the lives and careers of J. S. Bach and Buxtehude and, among others, the organ builders Silbermann, Schnitger, Trost and Marcussen! Entitled “In the Footsteps of Bach and Buxtehude,” it included visits to historic organs in Mühlhausen, Weimar, Eisenach, Arnstadt, Altenburg, Frauenstein, Freiberg, Dresden, Leipzig, Wittenberg, Hamburg, Lübeck, Århus, Odense and Copenhagen. Much was learned and experienced by its fortunate participants.
After arriving in Frankfurt at approximately 7:30 a.m. and after having collected all of the participants flying in from various locations, we boarded a beautiful, very modern bus to commence our journey of exploration.

Mühlhausen, Weimar, Eisenach, and Arnstadt
Our first stop was at St. Blasiuskirche in Mühlhausen, where Bach had worked from 1707–1708 (this year being the 300th anniversary of Bach’s arrival there from Arnstadt). While there, Bach submitted plans for rebuilding the organ.This organ, however, was replaced in the 19th century with a new instrument. But turnabout is fair play, and from 1956–1958 the 19th-century organ was removed; the Alexander Schuke company built a new organ based upon Bach’s plans, but with the addition of five new registers to support the performance of modern organ literature. The casework of this Schuke organ exemplifies the industrial style of the former East German regime and its banal aesthetic.
Then on to Weimar where Bach spent ten years as a musician to the Grand Duke; where Bach was imprisoned in 1716 for requesting to resign from his position to take another; and where, in 1717, Bach was first mentioned in print, being called “the famous Weimar organist.” After checking into the outstanding Elephant Hotel, next door to the building in which Bach lived from 1708–1717 and where his sons Wilhelm Friedemann and Carl Philip Emmanuel were born, we took a short stroll in the rain to visit the Parish Church of Sts. Peter and Paul, where, beginning in 1707, Bach’s relative and colleague Johann Gottfried Walther was organist.
Early the next morning we boarded the bus and departed for Eisenach, where J. S. Bach was born on March 21, 1685. He was baptized at St. George’s Church, where Luther had sung in the choir and had also preached. That baptismal font, which has a pedestal carved like a wooden basket, is still in use today. At that church, located on the Market Square (that day it was market day), we were treated to an organ recital (well attended by the public) performed by the young Denny Philipp Wilke, an organist from Nürnberg, who studied with Latry and van Oosten. Wilke performed Bach’s Prelude and Fugue in D, the Scherzo from Vierne’s Organ Symphony No. 2 and the Franck A-minor Choral on the 1982 Schuke of Potsdam organ. This fall Wilke was scheduled to record a recently discovered transcription by Dupré of Liszt’s Ad nos, ad salutarem undam.
After lunch we visited the Bach Museum (Bach’s birth house), where we heard a talk describing and demonstrating two small period organs, a spinet, a clavicembalo and a clavichord, and in which a crystal drinking cup, the only item remaining from the Bach household, is displayed. One of the rooms is set up as Bach’s composition room in Leipzig presumed to have looked.
Then back in the air-conditioned bus for a drive to Arnstadt to visit St. Boniface Church, containing a 1703 Wender organ (reconstructed by Hoffmann in 1999) on the fourth level. It was to test this organ that Bach came to Arnstadt in 1703. He was so appreciated that he was hired as organist and remained employed here until 1707, when he took his 200-mile walk to Lübeck to hear and learn from Buxtehude, a trip that resulted in his dismissal and move to Mühlhausen. Marilyn Mason’s friend Gottfried Praller demonstrated this Wender/Hoffmann instrument with performances of Buxtehude’s Ciaconne in d and Bach’s Fugue in d. On the third level of this church, now referred to as the Bachkirche, is a 1913 Steinmeyer organ, also reconstructed by Hoffmann in 1999.
Our last stop in Arnstadt was the nearby New Bach Museum containing, inter alia, the console Bach played upon in St. Boniface and some historic holographic music manuscripts.

Altenburg, Frauenstein, and Dresden
The next day, after breakfast, we departed for Dresden, but with two intermediary stops. The first was in Altenburg to view and play the 1735–1739 Tobias Heinrich Trost (1673–1759) organ in the castle church (“One of the great organs of the world,” says Marilyn Mason). Bach played this organ in September 1738 or 1739 and again in October 1739, when Bach’s pupil Krebs was the organist, as he was for the last 25 years of his life. This fine organ was also played by Weber, Liszt, Agricola and Schütz. Today Felix Friedrich, who has edited and published several volumes of Krebs’s work, is the organist. Altenburg is known as the playing card capital of the world, because playing cards are made here, and the castle museum contains an interesting collection of both old and new cards.
The second stop was in Frauenstein, the birth city of the revered organ builder Gottfried Silbermann (1683–1753) and the site where Werner Mueller established the Gottfried Silbermann Museum, which contains, among other things, a reproduction of a one-manual, no-pedal organ in Bremen, and upon which we each shared playing a theme and variations by Pachelbel on Was Gott thut, das ist wohlgetan. While there, we learned that the property has recently been sold to developers, so most likely the museum will be removed to another building.
Now in Dresden, we visited the Dom or Hofkirche (the Dom was the main church in a town) containing a 1755 Silbermann organ, his largest and last, with three manuals and 47 registers, and which was last restored by Jehmlich in 1971. Then we walked past the porcelain mural of the kings of Saxony on the street leading to the Frauenkirche, which, however, we could not visit due to the late time of day. So on to a fine dinner at one of the outside restaurants.

Freiberg, Leipzig, Rötha, and Stürmthal
The next day we traveled to Leipzig via Freiberg to visit Silbermann’s Opus 2 (1714) with three manuals and 44 registers and last restored by Jehmlich in 1983. We also visited the Jakobikirche, just outside the old city wall, where we played a two-manual Silbermann. This church is an old, very plain building but with an active congregation. The priest, rather than an organist, let us in and explained that the congregation can’t afford an organist. Can you imagine: a church with an historic Silbermann organ and no organist! Any volunteers?
In Leipzig we lunched on the Nikolaistraße before entering the Nikolaikirche, whose congregation was a leader in the democratic movement before the fall of the Berlin Wall. This church has a very ornate interior decorated with sharp pointed simulated foliage. We played an 1862 five-manual Ladegast organ reworked over the years by Sauer and by Eule. Currently part of its electronic stop action is by Porsche, whose name is prominently displayed on the beautiful wood of its art deco-like console. From the Nikolaikirche it was a short walk to the legendary Thomaskirche, originally part of a 13th-century monastery and the other main city church, and the one at which J. S. Bach was cantor from 1723 until his death in 1750 and with which he is most closely associated. Because this church is such a tourist attraction, all we could do was look around; the organ here is not a relic of the days of Bach’s tenure, but an 1889 Wilhelm Sauer instrument last restored in 1993. It is here that Bach is buried.
No University of Michigan organ tour to this area would be complete without a stop in Rötha to view the 1721 G. Silbermann organ in the Georgenkirche, because this instrument was chosen by Charles Fisk and Marilyn Mason as the model for what is now known as the “Marilyn Mason Organ” in the University of Michigan School of Music, Theatre and Dance—Fisk and Mason thought it, of all known G. Silbermann organs, best suited to the U-M space.
Next, an unscheduled visit to Stürmthal to tour a country church, where a funeral was in progress. Zacharias Hildebrandt (1688–1757), a protégé of G. Silbermann, built this organ, a one-manual with pedal, but got into trouble with Silbermann because of Silbermann’s perceived competition. Hildebrandt invited Bach to play this bright, high-pitched instrument and Bach wrote Cantata 194 for Hildebrandt.

Wittenberg, Lüneburg, Hamburg, and Neuenfelde
The next day, Saturday, began with a long drive to Hamburg with a first stop along the way in Wittenberg, birthplace of the Lutheran Reformation, to visit the revered Martin Luther sites. We did not play the organ in the castle church, another major tourist attraction and which now has Luther’s 95 statements immortalized in bronze on its doors (the doors upon which Luther nailed his 95 Theses on 31 October 1517 have long since been replaced).
The second stop on the Hamburg journey was in Lüneburg to visit the Michaeliskirche, where Bach had matriculated in the choir school. This triple-naved, Gothic, red-brick hall church with drastically leaning pillars contains an organ with a typical North German case and with pipes from many eras. This was originally the church for a Benedictine monastery, and thus the private church and sepulchral vaults for the reigning families of the Billungs and Guelphs. Tobias Gravenhorst is the current choirmaster. The organ here consists of an old case with new contents last reworked in 1999–2000 by Sauer, which used to be a large firm but now is only a small company. One might speculate whether Bach, as a young boy in the choir school gazing up at the organ case, got the idea of putting “Soli Deo Gloria” at the end of his compositions from the “Soli Deo Gloria” inscription at the top of the organ case. Sunday mornings are, of course, the time when churches are fulfilling their main function as houses of worship for their congregations, so for us Sunday morning is free time.
Sunday afternoon we visited the famous Jakobikirche in Hamburg, where we were hosted by a friendly female organist who knows English well. Reinken was on the city committee in 1693 when the organ was built by Arp Schnitger. Reinken didn’t want this church’s organ to have a 32′ stop because he wanted his church to be the only one in town to have a 32′ stop, but Schnitger foiled him by building two 32′s—a Principal and a Posaune. Bach applied for the organ post here in 1720, but he would have had to pay a fee to get the job. Instead a wealthy man with the money to pay (bribe!) was hired.
This was the organ whose pipes were removed to safe storage during WWII, thus saving this organ when the church and loft were subsequently destroyed. This Schnitger organ, which used to hang higher on the wall, was eventually restored by Jürgen Ahrend in 1950 and again in 1993. It was Schnitger’s habit to reuse pipes, so pipes from the 1500s were incorporated by Schnitger. (This in contrast to Silbermann, who used only new material.) Its temperament is between meantone and Werckmeister III (modified meantone). The faces of its donors are immortalized on the original stopknobs of the original console, which is displayed on a balcony but is not part of the currently functioning instrument. Albert Schweitzer has played this organ, and Marilyn Mason has proclaimed it one of the great organs of the world.
We also visited the Michaeliskirche in Hamburg, the main city church, a rococo room with curved balconies. The gallery organ was built from 1909–1912 by E. F. Walcker of Ludwigsburg. With its five manuals and 163 stops, for a time it was the largest organ in the world. We played music including French pieces that work well on it. The restored organ in the side gallery we did not play, nor did we play a small organ in the choir space. There were many visitors coming and going in this church.
St. Pankratius, a small church with a rural setting in Neuenfelde, is the burial place of Arp Schnitger (1648–1719) and was his home church for a number of years. He built this high baroque-style, two-manual, 34-stop organ for this church in 1688 and the bulletin board invites people to worship on Sunday to the accompaniment of the Schnitger organ.

Lübeck
On Monday, our last day in Germany, we journeyed to Lübeck, the first German city bombed in World War II (in response to the Germans’ bombing of Coventry, England), where we visited four important churches. The first was the Marienkirche, where Ernst-Erich Stender, organist, was our host. This is the church where Buxtehude had worked from 1668 to 1707. Its historic Schnitger organ and the Totentanz organ (named after a painting in the church) were destroyed by bombs in 1942.
The Domkirche, founded by Henry the Lion in 1173, today makes modern use of space. Its Romanesque towers survived the war, but its Gothic portions fell. Its contemporary (1960) stained glass window in the west end is especially beautiful. The 1699 Schnitger organ, originally built here but burned during the war, had been played by Handel, Mendelssohn and Mattheson. A 1970 Marcussen instrument now sits on the north wall. There are raised auditorium seats on the west end where the organ used to be and a small positiv organ is in the choir space. Here also is a charming Baggio di Rosa 1777 Italian one-manual portative organ with pull-down pedals and a bird stop, which has been restored by Ahrend in the Netherlands.
The design of the 13th-century Aegidiankirche is unusual because its pews face the preacher and not the altar. It has a choir screen from the Renaissance with eight panels depicting the life of Christ. Its original organ dated from 1629 and was built by Scherer of Hamburg. The case, not in baroque style, but with small, refined details suggestive of earlier times, was created by a famous Lübecker carver. This is one of the few organs built during the Thirty Years War, in which the independent northern German cities were not obliged to fight. Now, the old cabinetry with its intricate light and dark inlaid wood figures is more interesting than the 1992 Klais instrument it contains.
The Jakobikirche is where Hugo Distler—who had a good sense of history and resisted romantic modifications to the great organ, built by Joachim Richborn in 1673 and last restored by Schuke/Berlin in 1984—was the organist from 1931 to 1937. This organ contains pipes from a Blockwerk from the 1400s; Schuke added a Swell as part of his restoration in 1984. This organ is approximately 20% original and includes an 18th-century pedal division. Interestingly, there are two matching organ cases, north and west, both in swallow’s nest design. The main case is in Renaissance style and the Positiv case is in Baroque style.
The Jacobikirche three-manual, 31-register smaller organ by Stellwagen, built in 1637 and based upon an anonymous builder in 1515, was last restored by Brothers Hillebrand in 1978. With this organ being 70% original, today one hears what would have been the sounds of 1637 and of 1515. The Werckmeister temperament is tuned one step above A=440. Distler had this organ in mind when he composed Nun komm, der Heiden Heiland.

Ulkebøl, Sønderborg, and Aabendraa
The Ulkebøl Lutheran Church was our first stop in Denmark. Although this church has housed an organ continuously since the beginning of the 16th century, its current organ is a Marcussen & Søn dated 1888 set in a Jürgen Hinrichsen angel façade dated 1790. From 1864 to 1920 this part of Denmark had been part of Germany, and during World War II this church’s bells were removed to Hamburg to be melted down for munitions manufacture, but were fortunately rescued just at the end of the war before being melted. Danish churches have ships suspended from the ceiling to as a symbol recalling that human life is sustained by God; the nave is called the church ship. The patron of this church was the Duke of Augustinborg.
From there we bussed to the Sønderborg Castle; however, when we arrived the streets were blocked. We soon learned that this was for the security of the visiting Queen Margrethe, who had arrived in her royal yacht to visit this coastal castle. However she left promptly at 2 pm, and we were granted entrance to hear a recital on this reconstructed Renaissance organ by its organist. Originally there was a 1570 Rottenstein-Pock instrument, which was enlarged to two manuals with nine and five stops, respectively, in 1626; each manual has a slightly different compass. The present instrument is a 1996 Mads Kjersgaard reconstruction set in the original 1570 façade; D-sharp and E-flat are separate pitches because of the (probably) meantone tuning.
From there we were treated to a Marcussen factory tour. Founded in 1806, this firm celebrated its 200th anniversary last year. Still in the ownership of Marcussen’s descendants, it has been in this location in Aabendraa since 1829. Our tour was conducted by a Marcussen relative. We concluded this day in Århus.

Århus, Odense, and Copenhagen
The first stop the next morning was at the Århus Domkirke, the largest church in Denmark. Originally containing a Schnitger organ, the current instrument is a 1928 Frobenius, which has been placed behind the 1730 Kastens console and is the organ on which Gillian Weir recorded the complete works of Franck, Messiaen and Duruflé. Its 8′ Voix humaine is modeled after that in Ste. Clotilde in Paris (César Franck’s church).
After lunch we left for Odense, the birth city of Hans Christian Andersen, and visited St. Canute’s Cathedral, located next to a beautiful city park. This cathedral contains three organs: the smallest and oldest is the Jens Gregersen instrument built c. 1843; the second oldest is the main organ built by Marcussen & Søn in 1965 and using the façade of its 1756 predecessor; and the newest, in the east end of the cathedral, was built by Carsten Lund in 1999. Then on to Copenhagen for a visit to the Church of the Holy Ghost with its 1986 Marcussen & Søn organ; the opulent Jesuskirken, built by the Carlsberg brewing family and containing in front one of the last Cavaillé-Coll organs (dated 1890) built and, in the rear, a 1993–1994 Jensen & Thomsen instrument; and a city tour.

Roskilde
On the penultimate day we visited the impressive Roskilde Cathedral containing a 1991 Marcussen & Søn three-manual, 33-rank organ. We were granted special access to the upper gallery from which to view this magnificent edifice, which is the burial place of many Danish kings and queens and with its wonderful trompe l’oeil paintings of heroic exploits on various side chapel walls.
From there we visited the environmentally friendly chapel organ, an 1882 A. H. Busch & Sønner rebuild at Ledreborg Castle. The resident organist (from Tennessee!) gave a demonstration of this unusual single-manual instrument to which the pedal is always coupled, which has not been electrified and requires an assistant to work the bellows. We returned to Copenhagen to give a public recital at St. Andreas Church.
On Saturday, our last day together, many spent the day shopping and enjoying the city, while others visited the Trinity Church with its three-manual, 53-rank, 1956 Marcussen & Søn organ rebuilt by P. G. Andersen in 1977 and the Garnisonkirche. Our communal dinner, at an historic local restaurant, was a bittersweet gathering, knowing that the camaraderie created by this tour’s participants was a unique organism and never to be duplicated.
Unlike any other instrument, no two organs are the same and, to be fully understood and appreciated, should be personally touched and experienced. Thus, one of the primary values of these tours is to acquaint oneself with the famous historic organs of the world to experience what it is about each that makes it so revered. And on this two-week, multi-city tour of northern and eastern Germany and Denmark, the participants “experienced” approximately 43 organs dating from the 16th through the 20th centuries. But it’s not just about the organs. It’s about the camaraderie with organ aficionados, too.■

Aldo J. Baggia is Chairman of the Department of Modern Languages and Instructor in French, Spanish, German and Italian at Phillips Exeter Academy, Exeter, New Hampshire. He holds a bachelor’s degree from Iona College and the MA from Middlebury College, and has completed graduate work at Laval University and Duke University. He has pursued postgraduate studies in France, Germany, Austria, and Spain, and has travelled extensively in Europe. He has written numerous opera reviews for Quarterly Opera Review, Opera, Opera News, Orpheus, and Monsalvat.

Our guide book on Saxony in Germany indicated that no. 2 in Kleinbobritzsch was the house where the celebrated organ builder, Gottfried Silbermann, was born. I thought it was interesting that the town was so small that this address was sufficient to find the house, and indeed it is. Kleinbobritzsch, in effect, has one street and is in a line of small villages a few kilometers from Frauenstein where his family moved two years after his birth in 1683. One goes through Niederbobritzsch and Oberbobritzsch and therefore we have a "Lower," "Upper," and "Small" Bobritzsch but no town of Bobritzsch itself. Silbermann left Saxony for a short time to study the trade of organ building with his brother Andreas in Strasbourg and after a few years in France he returned to Saxony in 1710 and built his first organ for the Stadtkirche in Frauenstein in 1711. That organ was destroyed in a city fire in 1728.

It is amazing that, with such little experience, he was given the contract to build the large 3-manual organ for the Cathedral in Freiberg in 1711. He relocated to a house at the current Schloßplatz in Freiberg, which is only twenty kilometers from Frauenstein, and this became his living quarters and workshop until his death in 1753. He remained dedicated to Saxony during his entire life and was quoted at the time of building his first organ for the church in Frauenstein that he was doing it for his "country, the honor of God and the love of the church."

Silbermann was high on my list of interests in planning a trip to Saxony  this past summer. People are acquainted with his organ in the Cathedral of Freiberg (III/45), at least by reputation, but few have had the opportunity to see and hear a number of his other organs in the old province. Political considerations made trips to the former German Democratic Republic difficult, and it has only been in recent years that road conditions have been sufficiently upgraded in order to make travel in the former East Germany bearable. Four years ago I spent two months in Germany as part of a sabbatical year and drove through parts of the provinces of  Sachsen-Anhalt and Thüringen and found the roads to be in a deplorable state. That is no longer the case.

Werner Müller in his book Auf den Spuren von Gottfried Silbermann points out that Silbermann made forty-eight organs and that the last one attributed to him, the large 3-manual in the Katholische Hofkirche in Dresden (the Cathedral), was finished by his associates, one of whom was Zacharias Hildebrandt, who subsequently became quite well known for the organ in the Wenzelkirche in Naumburg (Thüringen).   The Dresdner Hofkirche organ was stored for safe keeping in 1944 and therefore survived the bombing of  the city  in February, 1945.   At the time the case was destroyed, and the present one is a copy of the original. The organ was restored by the Jehmlich Brothers of Dresden and re-dedicated in 1971.

Other Silbermann organs have also been  destroyed by fires, either in the Second World War or in other wars such as the Seven Years War in the eighteenth century. The famous organ in the Frauenkirche in Dresden (III/45) was destroyed in the bombing of 1945 as was the organ of the Sophienkirche (II/31). The large organ of the Johanniskirche in Zittau (III/44) was destroyed in the Seven Years War in 1757

Silbermann had the lofty title of  "Königlich-polnischer und kurfürstlich-sächsischer Hof- und Landorgelbauer," which translates as "Organ builder to the Courts of the King of Poland and the Elector of the State of Saxony." Saxony was his homeland and all of his organs with the exception of those in Burgk, Greiz, Lebusa and Großmehlen,  were built for churches there. Even those four towns were on Saxony's borders. Saxony is primarily Lutheran country and with the exception of the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Dresden, the churches with his organs are generally the Stadtkirche (the city church) or the Dorfkirche (the village church), both of which would be the local Lutheran church of a particular town.   The architecture of all of these churches tends to be similar and the differences that exist in their layout are primarily those of size. There would be a central tower of considerable mass in the larger ones such as the churches in Sayda, Großhartmannsdorf and Oederan and a narrower one as at St. Petri in Rochlitz and all would be topped with some variation of an onion bulb under a cross. The massive Cathedral in Freiberg is basically a gothic construction that has two imposing towers that are squared and shaved at the top. The original Lady Chapel is pure gothic and the nave with its high arches is typical of other churches in Saxony. The south chancel portal is the elaborately sculptured "Goldene Pforte" which is now protected from the elements by a wooden foyer which completely encloses it.  A life-size replica of it can be seen at the Busch-Reisinger Museum at Harvard University. It was moved from the western side of the Cathedral in 1487 and covered during the renovation work of 1827-36. The Annenkirche in Annaberg-Buchholz, St. Aegidien in Oschatz, the Cathedral in Zwickau and the Marienkirche in Pirna have similar interiors insofar as the nave and aisles are concerned. These four churches are among the largest in Saxony and are architectural gems that survived the Second World War, but while they deserve a visit, they were never associated with Silbermann.

Freiberg itself is a treasure chest for anyone interested in Silbermann's organs since four of those extant are located there. Besides the two in the Dom, there are the (II/32) of 1735 in St. Petri and the (II/20) of 1716 in the Jakobikirche, the latter having been transferred to the current church which was built in 1892. In both examples the cases are the original ones and the case of the Jakobikirche carries the State of Arms of Saxony at the top because it was built by the municipal carpenter of Freiberg, Elias Lindner, in 1718. The Petrikirche organ, which also carries the Arms of Saxony, is considered important because it points the way to Silbermann's later ideas on organ building while the Dom organ of 1711, which was his second organ, was the fruit of  his earlier ideas. The Petrikirche organ was built between 1733 and 1735 and achieves a majestic sound that fulfils the desires of the later baroque era. It was his first organ with a 16¢ Principal in the Hauptwerk and is particularly important from that point of view because the organs in the Frauenkirche in Dresden and the Johanniskirche in Zittau, which were both larger and  more developed, have not survived.

Most of Silbermann's organs were one- or two-manual instruments of 12 to 20 stops, and the one-manual organ of 14 stops from St. Johannis in Freiberg was moved to the north chancel of the Dom in 1939 and very recently restored. It was featured in the five concerts that I attended this summer in Freiberg and was a very good example of what one expects from a Silbermann organ, i.e., a clarity of sound, particularly in the flutes, and a variety of color that is very appropriate for expressive music. It also has a power that one would not expect from a one-manual organ. Obviously the superb acoustics of the Dom have a lot to do with the sound that is produced. The west tower organ has a brilliance and clarity that really stand out. The case of the large organ is magnificent by any standards and when Dr. Felix Friedrich from the Altenburger Schloßkirche launched into Bach's famous Toccata and Fugue in D Minor in the concert of August 13th, the sound of the instrument, the beauty of the church, and the piece itself made it a truly magical experience.

I was interested in hearing the organ in more modern music to see what its range would be and how it would sound when compared to much larger symphonic instruments such as those of E.M. Skinner or Henry Willis III.  Some nineteenth- and twentieth-century pieces were programmed and there was no difficulty in producing the necessary sound mass that one would associate with such music. Kent Tritle from St. Ignatius in New York City played George Crumb's Pastoral Drone, Ned Rorem's Views from the Oldest House and Mendelssohn's Sonata in C Minor, op. 65. Dr. Friedrich from Altenburg played Eberhard Böttcher's Choralvorspiel und Fuge über Veni creator spiritus and Friedrich Metzler's 3 Choralvorspiele aus dem Choralkreis. Stephan Leuthold from Dresden, who was the winner of the Gottfried-Silbermann competition in 1997, finished up his concert with Gustav Merkel's Sonata in D, op. 118. In general the other works played by all of these organists were by Bach or his contemporaries.

It so happened that the organ (II/19) in the Dorfkirche in Nassau celebrated its 250th anniversary on August 2nd and there were a number of activities associated with its re-dedication during the course of the ensuing week. The Jehmlich Company of Dresden was hired to do the restoration and Stephan Leuthold was the organist for the final concert of the week on August 9th. He closed his program with Schumann's Fuge Nr. 1 über BACH, op. 60 and Rheinberger's Sonata in A, op. 98. These are pieces that require a flexibility of  registrations and a certain amount of power, and there was no difficulty in the organ's ability to sustain the sounds required. The serious drawback was the lack of good acoustics in the building which had practically no reverberation at all. It is a very small church with a low ceiling and the sound is deadened even though the interior is entirely made of wood. As such, the amplitude and majesty that one hears in the Dom or in the Petrikirche in Freiberg were completely absent. The restoration of this organ was financed by a retired teacher and organ aficionado, Hubert Hofer, who supported the restoration of the Silbermann organs in Frankenstein, Großmehlen, Glauchau and Zöblitz. He was quoted in an article in the Freiberg edition of the Freie Presse as saying: "I have spent my lifetime in a simple and frugal way and have developed my great love for the organ. Gottfried Silbermann's organs are close to my heart because they are, as I would say, unequalled in their sound and manner of construction."

The one two-manual that really stood out in my mind was the organ at Oederan, which is a small town about 14 kilometers west of Freiberg and on the road to Chemnitz. The Stadtkirche is very large and the (II/25) instrument has a very impressive sound of clarity and grandeur. The contract was written in 1724 and the dedication took place on May 25th, 1727. The organ was kept in its original state until the middle of the 19th century by Silbermann's successors. When the church was renovated in 1890-92, a neo-gothic case was built to go with the changes in the interior. At the same time the Jehmlich Company of Dresden did some re-building of the instrument and further work was done in 1968 by the Eule Orgelbau Firma of Bautzen. The Eule Company did a complete restoration of the organ in 1992-93 with the intention of putting it in its original condition, i.e., meeting the technical and acoustical levels that Silbermann had achieved. Although Silbermann's organs are generally associated with Bach, one should note that Silbermann had never followed the customs of other German builders with respect to his stoplist and tuning and his organs represent a combination of German and French principles. Unless the tuning were changed, one would, in theory, play Bach's music "imperfectly" on a Silbermann organ, even though Bach had a great interest in the French school of organ building.

In his book, Organ, Arthur Wills stresses the point that Silbermann's organ at Fraureuth represents a good example of the blending of the German and French elements in organ building.    On the Ars Vivendi label there is a fine recording of Bach's Toccata, Adagio und Fuge C-dur BWV 564 by Johannes-Ernst Köhler on the Fraureuth organ (11/20), which was built between 1739 and 1742. There is a great variety of color, and the tone is absolutely beautiful.

I attended a recital in Oederan on Thursday, July 23rd, and the only disappointment was that there were only four people in the church, including my wife and me.   The organist played some variations by Johann Gottfried Walther and the Toccata and Fugue in D Minor by Bach and the results were most impressive. The acoustics of the church are outstanding and the depths of expression that one heard were remarkable.     This is an organ that would easily stand side by side with larger instruments for its capacity to inspire, and its sound is truly unique.

About thirty of Silbermann's organs are still extant, and it is extraordinary to consider that these organs are more than 250 years old, even with the understanding that some rebuilding has been done on all of them. Silbermann's influence on other organ builders has continued to the present time, particularly with respect to the manufacturing of the pipes. Friedrich Ladegast had remarked when building the large organ for the Schloßkirche in Wittenberg in 1858 that the pipes should be fashioned "nach Silbermann'schen Methoden," the meaning of which is quite evident.

This was a wonderful discovery and one that is waiting for other friends of the organ.