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The Trials,Tribulations and Joys of an Organist on Tour

by Charles Beck
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During July, 1997, Janice Beck was scheduled to play nine organ recitals in four different European countries, a recital every three days.  In fact, she played eight recitals in three countries.  This account is a detailed description of that tour, its trials, tribulations and joys.

Peterborough, England

On June 26 we left Detroit Metropolitan Airport, two hours late because of a faulty toilet that had to be repaired, arriving at Gatwick Airport, London at 10:00 a.m. the following morning.  After going through Immigration and Customs, we picked up our Britrail passes, and caught a train to Kings Cross Station in London. At 1:10 p.m. we departed for Peterborough, arriving about 2:00. Although we had specific directions to our lodging in the Cathedral Precincts, the taxi driver had no idea how to get there, so he simply dropped us off, in the rain, somewhere in the vicinity of the Cathedral. After inquiring of several helpful pedestrians, we found the bed and breakfast operated by the wife of a canon on the cathedral staff. For the next four nights we enjoyed staying in their lovely old home, part of which dates from the 15th century. Although Janice's first recital, in the Peterborough Cathedral Festival, was not until July 1st, we had arrived early in order to recover from jet-lag prior to the recital.

After a pleasant chat and tea with our hostess, we took a much needed nap followed by a good, but very expensive meal in a nearby hotel. Needless to say, we went to bed early. We awoke to a dreary morning, but feeling somewhat refreshed after a good night's sleep. The weather was, to say the least, miserable with low clouds, rain and wind, and a temperature in the 50s. Unfortunately this weather was predicted to last for a week, and it did. Following breakfast, (and what a breakfast it was: grapefruit, eggs sunny side up, ham, sausage, baked tomato, mushrooms, toast, jams and tea), we walked a few hundred yards and entered the great cathedral for the first time. Although one of the largest and most beautiful of English cathedrals, Peterborough is less well known than some others. Dating from the 14th century, it is famous for the longest painted wooden ceiling in Britain.

Janice had been promised six hours practice time, but we had hoped to arrange additional time. Although it was apparent that the cathedral was vacant each day early in the morning, the festival administrator was unable to arrange additional practice time on the cathedral instrument. He did, however, allow Janice to practice on an ancient two-manual tracker instrument in another church of which he was organist about a mile from the cathedral. So for the next two days we walked in a cold rain to All Saints Church for practice. The All Saints organ, built by Forster and Andrews of Hull in 1908, and apparently in its original state, is characterized by lovely flues and reeds, and strings of remarkably French-sounding tonal qualities. It has, however, two drawbacks: 1) The pedals are very close together, the pedal board being 6 inches narrower than typical modern pedal boards, and 2) as one might expect of a tracker instrument of this vintage, it has a heavy action. But its beautiful tonal qualities in the marvelous acoustical milieu of All Saints Church compensated handsomely for these deficiencies. Whereas the opportunity for Janice to practice in All Saints allowed her, in some ways, to maintain her program in top form, it did nothing to prepare her to use the Cathedral console, and practicing on such an unconventional pedal board may well have been a disadvantage.

On Sunday morning our hostess escorted us to the 10:30 service in the cathedral. We sat in the choir just beneath the organ which we heard for the first time. The service was beautiful. The excellent men and boys choir sang a Schubert Mass with various movements interpsersed throughout the service. The organ, a Hill, Norman and Beard, renovated in the '80s by Harrison and Harrison is an excellent service instrument, but as we knew from the specification, not a very large instrument, and equipped with only 8 generals (not duplicated by toe studs) and a capture-type combination action.

Since the theme of the Cathedral Festival was "The French Connection," Janice had been asked to play a program with an emphasis on French compositions. Whereas she had planned to play the "Communion" and "Sortie" from Messiaen's Pentecost Mass and some short works of Vierne in her tour program, she felt compelled to add another French work to this program, and she chose the Franck Choral No. 3 in A Minor.

Finally on the night before the concert, we gained access to the cathedral instrument with only four hours to register a full-length recital, and to become accustomed to the console in any time that might have been left. With only 8 generals available, registering the program became a nightmare, but by using divisional pistons and assigning me the task of some manual stop-pulling during both the Franck and Messiaen, the job was accomplished. There was no time for practice, however, that being relegated to a brief period the following day.

After the 1:00 p.m. recital we were to catch the 15:37 to London which gave us very little time to retrieve our luggage from the B & B and get to the train station. Consequently, we did not tarry long after the concert. We had expected the festival administrator to present us with the agreed-upon artist's fee, but he was nowhere to be found, much to the consternation of our B & B hosts and the cathedral organist. We received a check two months later.

We arrived at London Kings Cross station just in time for the afternoon rush hour, took the Underground to Waterloo Station, arriving into a throbbing mass of humanity, all, like us, trying to get to the proper platform for their respective trains for home or, in our case, for Windsor.  With two large suitcases, a large brief case containing scores, and a mid-sized carry-on, we finally made our way to the proper platform, boarded the 17:42 for Windsor, collapsed, exhausted, in our seats, and arrived one hour later. Our "overnight" stay in a B&B turned out to be a half-night's stay, only, since we were required to appear at Heathrow Airport two hours prior to our 6:50 departure for Copenhagen. So we pulled ourselves out of bed at 3:45 a.m., dressed, had some tea and ate a soggy sandwich. The taxi arrived on time at 4:30 for the 20 minute drive to Heathrow.

Poland

The flight to Copenhagen was excellent, with an efficient and very polite crew, and a delicious breakfast. We arrived in Copenhagen at 10:00 a.m., changed planes and left at 11:00 for Szczecin, Poland, a city of about 500,000 population. As we approached the Szczecin airport we were surprised at the lack of activity and any evidence of commercial development in the vicinity. Upon landing it became apparent that our plane was the only one there except for a few derelict World War II fighter planes parked alongside a taxi strip. And no other planes arrived during the time it took to go through customs and immigration. The small, antiquated terminal building, probably dating from the 1940s, had obviously not been improved or expanded since it was built. We had just had our first glimpse of the legacy of communist domination in Poland for over 40 years.

After being frisked with metal detection devices, we were interrogated by an official who spoke only halting English. We were taken aback when he asked, "You go to Santa Monica?" After a pause, Janice replied, "We have been to Santa Monica in California." He seemed as surprised by that reply as we were by his question. But after a few seconds and a quizzical look, he waved us on.

Kamien

We joined our hosts, Bogdan and Laura Marcinkowski, who drove us to Kamien Pomorski, about 60 kilometers away. As we approached a park-like area of the town we drove under an arch that bore in large letters, in English, the name, Santa Monica Institute. We soon learned that our lodging was a hospice where persons, many from Scandinavian countries, went to rest and recuperate from serious illnesses, or to spend their last days! Perhaps, because of our lack of sleep the previous night, we appeared terminally ill to the immigration official at the Szczecin airport. Although our room was immaculately clean, we felt somewhat uncomfortable in the Santa Monica Institute among the many ill inhabitants.

The elegant 12th-century cathedral in Kamien, built by Germans and used for many centuries by Lutherans, is characterized by an acoustical milieu of indescribable beauty. The Michael Berigel organ, of north German style dating from the latter part of the 18th century is characterized by beautiful, brilliant mixtures, glorious flues, several excellent solo stops, and reeds so terribly out of tune that their character could not be accurately assessed. The instrument was, however, very difficult to play because of a very heavy tracker action, and a flat pedal board of unusual dimensions and placement-narrow from side to side as well as from front to back, and set back at least six inches from the front of the console. To play the pedals the bench had to be placed so far from the console that it was almost impossible to reach the top manual without losing one's balance. An even greater hindrance to Janice, however, in playing the program she had planned, was the fact that, unknown to her, the entire Positiv division had been removed for renovation as had about half of the pedal pipes. With some creative registrations, however, the program was successful. And what beautiful, ethereal sounds in that marvelous acoustical environment. One would die for a Koppelflöte like that used as a solo stop in the Vierne Arabesque.

The concert in Kamien Pomorski as well as the following concert in Szczecin were part of the International Festival of Organ and Chamber Music. Each concert consisted of both organ works and works performed by a chamber group. In Kamien, the organ works alternated with works played by an excellent trombone quintet, whereas in Szczecin the organ works comprised the first half of the concert with the second half consisting of choral works by a Swedish choir. In Kamien, as well as in every other venue in Poland and Slovakia, there were large audiences, with most venues filled to capacity.

Szczecin

From Kamien, we traveled by train to Szczecin. Kamien is at the southern end of a spur, about twenty kilometers from the main rail line across northern Poland. The little train arrived about 10 minutes prior to departure time. The metal seats, without cushioning, were painted bright red. To say they were uncomfortable would be a gross understatement. The train departed on time, chugged along slowly for a few minutes and stopped at a country lane to pick up several passengers. During the next half hour the train stopped several more times for passengers who were simply standing by the track in the countryside. Once we joined the main line, however, the train continued on to Szczecin without another stop.

We were met in Szczecin by a guide from the Castle of Pomeranian Princes, driven to the castle, and escorted to our rooms--a very fine guest suite consisting of a bedroom, a sitting room and a marvelous, large and luxurious bathroom. There were no glasses, no bath mats, no telephone, and no television in our suite; and more significantly, no door key. Of these, we considered the absence of a television set an asset, but we were not prepared to leave our possessions, especially Janice's valuable scores, in an unlocked room. The concierge informed us that the last guest had failed to return the key before leaving, but since he could see the door to our suite he would keep watch on it for us. Nevertheless, we insisted, much to his consternation, on having a key. Finally, a locksmith arrived, and replaced the entire lock.

The Castle, dating from the 12th century, was the residence and site of government of the ruling princes of Pomerania until the early 17th century. By 1577 the castle had attained its present form and at that time was one of the most beautiful Renaissance castles in Europe. In 1944 it was severely damaged during air raids. Reconstructed after the second world war, it is today a center of cultural activity in Szczecin.

After lunch we visited the concert hall in the castle with its relatively new instrument built by the Kaminski firm of Warsaw. Finding someone to turn on the instrument proved most difficult, and then we had to decipher the eastern European combination action, essentially an exposed setter board consisting of four rows of different colored pins, each color representing a different division of the organ and each pin representing a stop.

This instrument is characterized by loud, raucous reeds, shrill mixtures, and tight sounding flues. The tonal characteristics of the instrument and the expressed lack of knowledge of the western organ world by the castle organist is, no doubt, a reflection of the isolation imposed on Poland under Communist domination. Other instruments that Janice played in Poland and elsewhere in eastern Europe were quite beautiful although several were in bad condition, but they had been built in the 18th, 19th or early twentieth centuries.

Tired after practicing all afternoon, we had dinner and went to bed early. As we returned from the restaurant we noticed that the courtyard of the castle had been set up with chairs and that people were filing in in great numbers. A stage backed by colorful banners occupied one end of the courtyard, and we guessed that there was to be some sort of entertainment. Shortly the entire courtyard was packed to capacity, and the concert began. From our bedroom adjacent to the courtyard the music was very audible, and we lay in bed enjoying a symphony orchestra, chorus and soloists presenting music from Mozart operas. Dead tired, we dropped off to sleep before the concert ended, and were awakened, suddenly, from a deep sleep by what sounded like a war: the loud booms and flashing lights of a spectacular fireworks display. We were treated to a repeat performance of both the concert and the fireworks the following night.

The organ recital, at twelve noon on Sunday, July 6, actually went very well, but provides examples of the unexpected with which an organist must cope. As Janice walked on stage, I as page turner trailing behind, the house lights were dimmed and very bright flood lights were turned on the organ console. These lights came from only one side of the hall, and because of the angle of the console, Janice's body cast a very dark shadow on the pedal board which, as a result, was hardly visible. Seeing the pedal board was made all the more difficult by the great contrast between the brightly illuminated score and the darkened pedal board. She played the initial work on the program, by J. S. Bach, without any problem. The second work, however, was a new, unpublished composition entitled Kairos, by Pamela Decker which contained some virtuoso pedal passages. Janice had no alternative but to ask in English that the lights be adjusted so she could see the pedal board. Fortunately, some helpful person in the audience understood, made the appropriate request to the stage hands, and the lights were duly adjusted. The performance of Kairos was going well when, unannounced, a television camera crew walked on stage and began videotaping Janice (and me) from various angles. You can imagine how distracting that could be, but Janice, undaunted, maintained her concentration and completed the performance without incident.

A lasting memory of this tour will be of the wonderful people whom we met and who in various ways assisted us. We had tried repeatedly to make several telephone calls to the United States from Kamien Pomorski without success, and in Szezecin we did not have easy access to a telephone. We informed a new Polish friend, a physician and organ buff, who had attended Janice's recitals in both Kamien and Szczecin, of our difficulties, and he most graciously invited us to have dinner in his home from which we were able to make our calls.

Gdansk

The following morning, July 7, we took a taxi to the train station to begin our journey to Gdansk. Understanding no Polish, and with no English or German directions in the railroad station, we were apprehensive about determining the platform from which to board the train. The taxi driver turned out to be another "angel" to whom we will always be in debt. Of Greek descent and speaking some English, he recognized our dilemma. Upon arriving at the station, he insisted on accompanying us into the station and onto the proper platform. Rather than leaving us there, however, he stayed with us until the train arrived, raced to the far end of the train to the correct car with Janice's luggage, took it on board, and found seats for us. Needless to say, he received a large tip from me. He also received a hug from Janice, the only time, to her knowledge, she has ever hugged an angel, or for that matter, a taxi driver.

In the Gdansk suburb of Oliwa we were housed in a seminary for priests associated with the great cathedral there. Upon arrival, a young priest escorted us to our dormitory room which, even by college dormitory standards, was spartan. We had arrived in late afternoon, and soon went to the dining hall for dinner which consisted of thin cold cuts of cheese and salami, bread and tea. We were seated at a table some distance from those occupied by the young priests, not only for this, but for all meals. None of the priests took the initiative to speak to us or to engage us in conversation. We were perplexed by this isolation and still do not know the reason. Perhaps it resulted either from a lack of knowledge of English, or a lack of confidence in speaking it by those who did know some English. We, of course, could speak no Polish, so were in no position to be critical. Furthermore, although free of Russian domination for nearly l0 years, there is still very little opportunity to interact with English-speaking people from the west. Tourism has simply not caught on, at least in Northern Poland, and we saw no evidence of any effort to encourage it. In fact during our entire stay in Poland (6 days), we saw only two or three Americans.

The following morning, breakfast consisted of cold cuts, bread and tea, identical to the previous night's supper. We were becoming discouraged, to say the least, and began to joke about what to expect for the noon meal which, fortunately, turned out to be the main meal of the day with meat, two vegetables, bread, a small dessert, and tea. But for the following supper and breakfast?: you guessed it!

Oliwa cathedral, constructed of red brick, and showing Dutch influence in its exterior architecture, is equally surprising on the interior. The long and very high nave and chancel are painted white, resulting in an unusually bright interior.

The large, 5-manual organ, dating from the last century, is contained in a dramatic case with spectacular carvings of angels holding gilded horns that can move from side to side, and two cymbelsterns. The instrument has been converted from tracker to electro-pneumatic action, and, in recent years, has been fitted with a solid-state combination action and sequencer, the only instrument we saw in eastern Europe so modernized.

The people of Gdansk are very proud of the Oliwa organ which is demonstrated every afternoon to large crowds including many children who are especially fascinated by the moving golden "trumpets" and the rotating cymbelsterns.

Janice had access to the organ only on the evening before the day of the recital and one hour on the day of the recital. Consequently, she had to take good advantage of her one evening for registration and practice time. As we arrived in the organ loft, we smelled an unusual odor. I thought it might be stale incense, but Janice demurred, saying she had never smelled incense with that "fragrance." I sat in the nave to assist with balance. After about two hours in the organ loft, Janice began to play wrong notes, and complained that she was not thinking well and was becoming dizzy. But she had to try to continue registering her program, which became progressively more difficult. We finally found the source of the odor: an unvented toilet near the organ loft from which sewer gas was escaping in large quantities. By closing the door to this lavatory and by stuffing an old, discarded flag under the door, we largely solved the problem. Unfortunately, by this time Janice was feeling quite ill, but continued to work for several more hours. By noon the following day she felt much better, and by recital time that evening she was, fortunately, back to normal.

Olomouc, Czech Republic

At 4:30 the next morning we were taken to the airport for a 6:30 flight to Prague. We arrived at the Prague airport 30 minutes early, and went directly to the train station to catch a train for Olomouc where Janice was to play a recital in St. Michael's Church. Since we had a two-hour wait, we sat in a park just outside the station and enjoyed people-watching on a beautiful, cool, sunny morning. We had purchased rail tickets in the United States. Consequently, we went directly to the platform to board our train just 15 minutes prior to departure time. The train was destined from Prague to Warsaw, via Olomouc, or so we thought. As we were looking for the coach in which we had reserved seats, I asked a member of the train crew to help us. He looked at our tickets and immediately threw up his hands and waved them back and forth excitedly as if to indicate that we could not go on that train, at the same time speaking to us in Czech which we could not understand. A train for Germany was about to depart on an adjacent track. I was literally pulled over to the conductor of the German train who said, "Der Zug fahrt nicht nach Olomouc. Olomouc liegt unter wasser." I understood, but was perplexed and obviously showed that by my puzzled expression, so the conductor repeated what he had just said, even more emphatically: "That train does not travel to Olomouc. Olomouc lies under water!" The German train left, as did the Czech train, with us standing forlornly on the platform wondering what to do.

During the entire time we had been in Poland, we had not had access to a television set, and had not purchased a paper which, of course, we could not have read. We had, therefore, heard nothing of the severe floods in southern Poland and Moravia. We eventually learned that much of Olomouc, centrally located in Moravia, was literally inundated by the flood waters, there was no electric power, and no hotels and restaurants were operating. We learned also that three railroad bridges between Prague and Olomouc had been destroyed, and thus that there was no rail service from Prague to Olomouc, or for that matter into Slovakia, the site of our next concert. If we had gotten on the train as intended, we would have gone back to Warsaw from which we had flown a few hours earlier.

Fortunately, telephones in Olomouc were still operating. We called our host there, and his wife said he had gone to Prague to meet us. Not expecting him there, we had simply walked out of the terminal without seeing him, or he us. He looked for us at the railroad station, but could not find us because we were sitting outside in the park. We found a hotel near the old city, and the following day our host again drove to Prague which required a long, circuitous route to avoid the flood waters. He thought it still possible that electricity would be restored in time for the recital. He explained the use of the Prague Metro (subway), and showed us the best way to gain accesss to the Karlovy Bridge over the Vlatava (formerly the Moldau) which leads to the Mesto (the old, central city). He also made airline reservations for a flight to Kosice, Slovakia, the nearest airport to Bardejov, our next destination. Unfortunately, the flooding became worse, power was not restored in Olomouc for many days, and the recital there had to be cancelled.

Prague

Although disappointed to miss playing in Olomouc, we were pleased to have four days in the beautiful city of Prague. The following day, after breakfast of cold cuts and yogurt, we set out to see the palace (the site of the Czech government) and St. Vitus Cathedral, nestled together on a high hill overlooking the city. The day was very hot, and we proceeded slowly up the long, steep hill to the palace and St. Vitus cathedral. Although very tired, upon entering the magnificent gothic cathedral, we knew it had been worth the climb. We rested in this stunningly beautiful church and marvelled at the golden glow of the choir and the elegant stained glass windows throughout. We bought some CDs in the Palace shop and walked back down the hill to the Malostranska Metro station. Back at the hotel, we collapsed and slept for several hours before supper, washed some clothes and went to bed.

The following day (Saturday, July 12), after finding an ATM and replenishing our funds, we visited Prague's largest music store where Janice purchased organ music by Czech composers.

Afterward, we found our way to the Mesto, the center of the old city, and what a magnificent area it is with many beautiful churches. Also thousands of tourists. Walking through the narrow streets and across the several squares, we were frequently charmed to see young people dressed in period costumes and to hear the music of Mozart floating across the area heralding a Mozart Festival. Mozart was a frequent visitor to Prague, and his opera, Don Giovanni, received its premiere here in 1787. Near the famous Tyn Church with its distinctive twin towers we had lunch in a quiet restaurant, after which we visited the beautiful baroque church of St. Nicholas across the square.

Bardejov, Slovakia

After a long day, we packed for our flight to Kosice, Slovakia, watched Bill Cosby (speaking Czech) for a few amusing minutes, and retired for the night. We arrived at the Prague Airport terminal about 9:00 a.m., picked up our tickets and were told to look for our flight number on TV monitors to determine the proper check-in desk. By 10:00 a.m. our flight number had not appeared, so becoming concerned, I enquired about the problem at an information desk. We were told to go immediately to one of the "common" check-in counters of which there were seven. All had very long lines, and we were quite apprehensive about getting to the counter in time to catch our flight. Finally, about 10 minutes before flight departure time, we were checked in and made our way as quickly as possible to the designated gate, arriving with very little time to spare.

Upon arrival in Kosice we were met by our host, grandson of Josef Gresak, the Slovak composer who is honored by the Gresak Organ Festival. A former conductor of the Slovak Symphony Orchestra in Kosice, our host now imports and distributes frozen fish. He drove us the 86 kilometers to Bardejov, located in the southern edge of the Carpathian Mountains, and only about 50 kilometers from the Ukrainian border. We thoroughly enjoyed driving through the beautiful, hilly countryside reminiscent of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains of western Virginia.

In Bardejov we were deposited in a city-owned apartment consisting of a large living room, dining room, kitchen, three bedrooms and a bathroom. This beautiful, modern facility was made even more appealing by having a high-quality stereo sound system plus a collection of CDs and cassette tapes. Before he left, our host, suggesting that we might not have any Slovakian currency, presented us the entire promised honorarium in cash! This very gracious and thoughtful gesture was most surprising, and nothing like it was repeated elsewhere.

Our apartment was conveniently located directly across the street from St. Egidius (St. Giles) Church in which Janice was to play. This gothic building, dating from the 15th century, has a fine organ installed by the Rieger firm of Budapest in 1909. This two-manual instrument of 35 registers has an eastern European style combination action with two "free" combinations and a flat pedal board of 27 keys. The combination action of this instrument differs from those of more recent instruments in having two rows of tabs instead of colored pins by which to set individual stops. These two combinations could be activated by pistons below the lower manual. Of interest to me was the original blower switch, integrated with a huge rheostat by which the voltage was increased to obtain appropriate wind pressure. The wind supply could also be provided by two men pumping a large bellows with their feet.

As in other cities in eastern Europe, ordering food here was a real problem although the one restaurant we patronized had a menu with English translations. Nevertheless, as we soon discovered, we rarely received what we thought we had ordered! By western standards, the cost of prepared food was remarkably low. We could obtain an adequate meal for two for only about $5.00. Breakfast here was a problem, however. The only place we could find open prior to 9:00 a.m. sold only submarine sandwiches, so for three days our breakfasts consisted of submarine sandwiches.

On our first full day in Bardejov Janice worked out registrations in the morning and practiced for three hours in the afternoon. We then bought a bottle of very good Hungarian red wine, some peanuts and pretzels, had a little party before dinner and went to bed early. The following day, after practice in the morning and a long nap in the afternoon, we arrived for the 8:00 p.m. recital about 7:45. As we approached the open church door we could hear none of the expected sounds of people on the interior, and were thus shocked upon entering to find a packed church, but not a sound from the audience, not even a cough. We tip-toed up to the organ loft and began the recital throughout which there was deathly silence from the audience, almost as if the people could not speak. This eerie quiet was, to say the least, somewhat disconcerting, and I hoped that Janice was not playing to an audience of deaf mutes. At the end of the program, following the Bach St. Anne Fugue, there was still no sound for a few seconds, then enthusiastic applause. As the audience departed there was still no talking in the church. To this remarkable audience in Bardejov, the church was, apparently, a sacred place, one in which to meditate, and to hear great music without the distraction of gossip or chit-chat about mundane secular events.

Bury St. Edmunds

Wednesday, July 16: we arose at 6:30 a.m., ate a submarine sandwich for breakfast, packed and were ready to leave for London at 9:30. We were driven to Kosice where we were hosted by members of the Slovak Symphony Orchestra adminstrative staff, one of whom took us to lunch and showed us beautiful St. Elizabeth's Cathedral. We left Kosice at 4:10 p.m., changed planes in Prague and arrived in London about 8:00. Getting through the immigration maze at Heathrow airport was a nightmare, with thousands of people in long queues. When finally we made it through immigration, found our luggage, and left the terminal building, it was nearly dark. Our taxi arrived 30 minutes later and delivered us, totally exhausted, to our B & B in Windsor about 10:00 p.m.

The next day we were up by 7:00 a.m., had a good English breakfast, and left Windsor on the 9:40 for London, Waterloo Station. We went by taxi to Liverpool Street Station, grabbed some sandwiches for lunch and took the 12:00 noon train to Ipswich, changing there to the 1:55 to Bury St. Edmunds, arriving at 2:30.

In Bury we stayed at the Chantry Hotel, a very nice accommodation with moderate rates that included breakfast. Since Janice had played a recital in St. Edmundsbury Cathedral in 1995, we were familiar with the town, and a lovely town it is. We met our host in the cathedral after choir practice and worked on the instrument until 11:30 p.m. On the following day, we browsed in the cathedral shop and enjoyed perusing their book collection by which we learned something about St. Edmunds and the ancient Abbey, the ruins of which are adjacent to the cathedral. The Abbey dating from the 700s, which was sacked and destroyed in the 1500s, was larger than the present cathedral. We also visited beautiful St. Mary's Church which is the largest Parish Church in the United Kingdom, almost as large as the cathedral. Although somewhat off the beaten path, Bury St. Edmunds is a lovely and interesting town very much worth a visit.

Practice in the evening was interesting, but not entirely productive. The cathedral organist and a priest heard Janice practicing Pamela Decker's piece, Kairos, and were so impressed with the work that they ascended to the organ loft to ask about it. In addition to Kairos, Janice played for them some of Dan Locklair's suite, Rubrics, about which they were also very enthusiastic. We found most interesting their expressions of dismay that they had such difficulty learning about new American compositions for organ. Because of this pleasant "interruption" Janice practiced until 12:30 a.m.

Saturday, July 19: Following the 4:00 p.m. recital, we walked to the nearby Angel Hotel bar to celebrate. We ordered Manhattans, and after carefully explaining to the bartender how to make them, we enjoyed two delicious American-style cocktails made with (very expensive) Kentucky bourbon. Later we were joined for dinner by the cathedral organist and his friend who we learned is one of only two female organ scholars in the English cathedral system.

All Saints Collegiate Church, Maidstone

The following day, Sunday, July 20, we caught a morning train to Cambridge, changing there to a train for London, King's Cross; we then went by Underground to Victoria Station where we arrived just 7 minutes prior to departure at 1:22 for Maidstone. Arriving in Maidstone at 2:25, we were met by a warden of All Saint's Church who took us to the church, showed us how to turn on the organ, took us to tea, and finally deposited us in our very nice B & B. After resting for two hours, we walked back into the center of town, had supper and went to the church for practice from 7:30 until 10:30 p.m.

All Saints Collegiate Church, Maidstone, dating from the 13th century, is very handsome, and provides a wonderful acoustical environment for organ music. Unfortunately, the organ console has only preset divisional pistons, and no generals. Although Janice had planned originally to play "Communion" and "Sortie" from the Messiaen Pentecost Mass she realized that it would be impossible to give them meaningful performances on this instrument, so she decided to replace them with several short works by Vierne.

On July 22, following supper of sandwiches and tea provided by our landlady, we dressed for the recital. The taxi was expected at 7:30. When, by 7:40, it had not arrived we called again, and another taxi finally arrived, about 7:50. By this time we were pretty tense. We arrived at the church at 7:56. The concert started, on time, at 8:00 p.m.!

Since Janice's next recital, in Westminster Abbey, was not until the 27th, we decided to stay in Maidstone until Saturday. This 3-day respite was much needed and most enjoyable. On Wednesday, we found a laundromat, Janice had her hair cut, and we took a short, pleasant cruise on the Medway river. The Medway is navigable through several locks from the English Channel to London by way of the Thames. We passed several Dutch barges on the river and others anchored alongside wharves in Maidstone, all bedecked with flowers in hanging baskets, making a beautiful sight.

On Thursday, we went by train to Canterbury to see the famous cathedral, home of the Archbishop, head of the Anglican Church. Canterbury is a very attractive town, but on this day in July it was overrun by tourists. Like most other British cathedrals the nave and choir of Canterbury are separated by a dense "screen," and at Canterbury the nave, choir and Trinity Chapel are on successively higher levels. The organ console is out of sight on top of the screen, and the Father Willis organ in the triforium is nearly invisible.

Of the many works of art, plaques, and other memorabilia in the cathedral, one plaque was especially meaningful for us. It bore the following message: "Remember the thousands of the combined allied forces who lost their lives during the invasion of western Europe on the 6th of June 1944. The assault on Normandy was launched at Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha & Utah beaches. Thus began the return of freedom to Europe. Greater love hath no man than this, that a man lay down his life for his friends."

One of our most enjoyable days in Britain was spent at Leeds Castle, just a few miles east of Maidstone which we reached by bus on Friday. One of the most famous and certainly one of the most beautiful of all English castles, with magnificent grounds and gardens, Leeds Castle was the home of kings and queens, including Henry the Eighth as well as Lord Culpepper who was governor of Virginia and Lord Fairfax who owned 150,000 acres of land in Virginia prior to the Revolution. It is no surprise that the town of Culpepper, and Fairfax County, Virginia were named for these illustrious early residents of the state. This Virginia connection with Leeds Castle was of particular interest to us since both Janice and I are Virginians by birth.

The castle was an early site of negotiations between Egypt and Israel that led to the Camp David Accords and the beginning of the on-going peace negotiations between Israel and the Arab nations of the Middle East.

Westminster Abbey

Saturday, 26 July: Today we travelled to London for the last recital of the tour, in Westminster Abbey. We left Maidstone by train at 10:00 a.m. and arrived in Victoria Station at 11:00. We took a taxi to Hotel 176 on Old Brompton Road in South Kensington. We were shocked to learn that there was no room reserved for us although the hotel had a record of our credit card number, and we had a fax confirming our reservation. The desk clerk was most apologetic, but re-iterated that there were no rooms available. Fortunately, the Swiss House Hotel, next door, had one double room available which we were delighted to take.

After a long nap in the afternoon, we went by Underground to Westminster Abbey for practice at 5:45. We found the organ scholar without difficulty who escorted us to the organ loft atop the screen separating the nave from the choir and showed us the organ console.

The Harrison and Harrison organ, installed in 1937, includes some re-voiced pipes from an earlier Hill organ. The instrument was restored and enlarged in 1982 and 1987 with the addition of a new console. In 1994 the combination action was expanded with the addition of a sequencer.

The five-manual console by Harrison and Harrison has several unusual features. There is a separate setter button for every general and every divisional piston. Unlike other English organs which Janice had played, the general pistons are not above the top manual, but below the manual for the solo division. Since the setter buttons for the general pistons are above the top manual, Janice had to be very careful not to push a setter button when she intended to push a general piston! We worked for the allotted 21/2 hours and made our way back to our hotel, very tired and went immediately to bed.

After sleeping late on Sunday, and a long nap in the afternoon, at about 4:00 we went to the nearby Gloucester Road Underground station to catch a train for the Abbey. Unfortunately the only reasonable route was not available because of work on the line. After deciding we did not have time to take a round-about route to the Abbey, we hailed a taxi and arrived just 15 minutes prior to recital time. We were relieved to observe that all tourists, except those who were seated for the recital, had been removed from the church; how this was accomplished we do not know. Two minutes prior to recital time, the Organist and Master of the Choristers arrived to greet us--a gracious gesture on his part, but not the most opportune time for the recitalist!

Following the recital, the sub-organist and several other organists in attendance, rushed up to the organ loft to ask about the contemporary American works on the program. As at St. Edmundsbury they were very interested in both Kairos and Rubrics.

After a pleasant dinner with friends who were in the London area on vacation, we packed for our return trip to Ann Arbor. Our flight from Gatwick to Detroit Metropolitan Airport was uneventful, and it was wonderful to be met by our daughters. It is always good to return home after a trip, but after having been away for nearly five weeks, homecoming this time was an unusual pleasure.

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Germany, Estonia and Paris

Canadian Organ Duettists Sylvie Poirier and Philip Crozier on tour in summer 2003

Philip Crozier

Philip Crozier was born in Preston, England, and was a boy chorister in Blackburn and Carlisle Cathedral Choirs. In 1979 he graduated from Cardiff University, and was awarded the Glynne Jones Prize for Organ in two consecutive years. Between 1978 and 1980 he studied in Paris with André Marchal.

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For the past several years my wife Sylvie Poirier and I have had the pleasure of traveling extensively giving concerts of organ duets. In the course of numerous concert tours we have amassed a considerable number of very happy memories, sprinkled with some less delightful tales.

It may be worthwhile at this point explaining how all this began. Sylvie and I first met in 1982 as candidates in the Chartres International Organ Competition and at the time lived on opposite sides of the Atlantic. Sylvie was born and living in Montréal, while I am from England. One thing led to another, culminating in my immigration to Canada and our marriage in 1984. The result was that we pooled together our respective collections of organ music and recordings, learning a lot from each other in the process. Our duet playing began later that decade when we decided to try out some organ duets we had bought--enough to make a complete program in two halves which then became the subject of a broadcast on Radio-Canada in May 1990--our debut concert as duettists. That one event was so well received that we were urged and encouraged by several kind folk to continue and do more, so we were stimulated to expand beyond this one concert and examine the available repertory, increase it by commissions and promulgate it by performances and recordings. In 1991 we played in Germany for the first time as duettists, our international debut as such, and it has since grown and grown. We have now commissioned and premiered seven organ duets by composers from Canada, Germany, France and Britain, and released three CDs of organ duets.

From the outset we have preferred to concentrate on original organ duets (the Mozart and Beethoven works excepting, which we consider valid as organ duets) because we are always fascinated by how and why a particular composer would have conceived an organ duet and how he handled this form of  music making, rather than someone taking an existing framework and adapting it for two players. It is also very exciting to unearth original works that have long been out of print, but there is still a lot we are looking for.

Planning a tour

It has become an annual event for us to travel to Europe during the summer when I have vacation time from St. James United Church and Temple Emanu-El-Beth Sholom in Montréal. Undertaking a concert tour that lasts around forty days presents a number of challenges. A good part of the success or otherwise is a direct result of what happens in the weeks before the plane is boarded, so a significant amount of preparation is obviously necessary; there are so many diverse  eventualities to cover. Planning the actual traveling requires some time consulting train schedules and maps. Occasionally we have had to postpone concerts to subsequent years because of the impossibility of reaching a destination in time.

The choice of repertory for the individual concerts is always carefully  planned to include a good representation of standard duet works which are quite often hardly known at all, taking into account the suitability of the instrument to the music and the availability of playing aids (because we do our own registration unaided, pistons or not, with rare exceptions). Our programs are submitted well in advance, always to include Canadian content, and fulfilling requests that are asked of us, when possible. We also like to include some of our own commissioned works. Organ duettists are relatively rare, and the repertory is not enormous, so concert organizers often prefer to hear duet works that the audience and organists alike are happy to discover or rediscover.

2003 Tour: “Cancelling summer”

The planned tour for summer 2003 was all working out well when I received an e-mail in January  from  David Rogers of Doncaster, England, a long-time friend who in addition to being a fine musician, improviser and recitalist (albeit a reluctant one), is a recording specialist with a huge knowledge of repertory and recording technique. He had made the acquaintance of one individual named Nick, an organ enthusiast who does not play and is not a recording technician, but whose plan was to start a record company devoted to organ music, to be recorded and edited by David. At Nick’s request David asked if I could record the Reubke Sonata on the 94th Psalm--a piece I had never played, but have known well since childhood as a listener, initially through an old LP of the never to be forgotten magisterial reading of Brian Runnett. David had made Nick familiar with my organ playing through private recordings of concerts I had given some twenty years ago. So I eagerly began learning this wonderful work and completed the task in due course.

Sylvie and I also greatly admire the organ works of Petr Eben whom we met in Prague in 1995 and 2000, and it was also suggested we record some of his works with the upcoming 75th birthday of the composer in mind. In 1993 we had broadcast Job and Faust on Radio-Canada (performances that Petr Eben himself was delighted with), but this music remains quite unknown in Canada. Consequently we invested much time, energy and enthusiasm into this new project where we had been assured all funding was in place, greatly encouraged by this unexpected recording opportunity. The organ of Fulda Cathedral in Germany seemed entirely suitable to the repertory in our opinion, and its availability was negotiated and booked. After all the required arrangements had been made with the cathedral, the repertory approaching where we wanted it to be for the recording (it is vital not to “peak” too soon) and a crescendo of excitement building day by day, Nick suddenly sent us an e-mail five weeks before our departure, citing a family problem and ending “my business will have to be sidelined temporarily, so, as they say in the satirical press, Summer is cancelled.”

Shocked and dismayed, we respectfully requested that the recordings could still proceed in his absence with David alone (Nick had insisted on being present at all recording sessions), since these had now become mitigating circumstances and by this stage the planning and preparation for the recording was so far advanced. This was refused outright so we were in a terrible dilemma: do we cancel and possibly jeopardize everything later, or wait, hoping the issue can be resolved, or do we continue alone? The impasse with Nick was not advancing anywhere and we began doubting the sincerity and goodwill of what had been achieved thus far in the project we had embarked upon.

A swift decision had to be made--every day counted with our departure for Europe approaching rapidly. It became more and more apparent that we were going to have to go it alone if these recordings were to be realized. Those final five weeks were spent frantically trying to salvage the situation, soliciting donations from friends and organizations so we could begin the actual  recording. This took up so much of our time that hardly any organ practice was done in those five weeks--not the best situation to be in before a tour of twelve concerts and a recording project! With much regret I decided to abandon the Reubke--this after all was to have been only half of one CD, the other half being taken up with the Piano Sonata by a pianist of repute. There was precious little time remaining before our departure and this had to be principally devoted to the Eben pieces which demand so much concentrated work, in spite of the monumental distractions preying on our minds constantly.

Limburg

It was relaxing in a strange way to be on the plane flying to Europe on the evening of July 16 after the turmoil of the preceding five weeks; we had done all we could, securing enough funding to cover the production of two compact discs. Arriving at Charles de Gaulle airport, Paris, it was clear that our flight connection to Frankfurt was beyond reach. Six hours later, with a good meal along the way, we were airborne again. We were met at Frankfurt by Markus Eichenlaub, organist of Limburg Cathedral where we were to play the first concert. After the hour drive to Limburg and settling in to the Priester Seminar, our home for the next three nights, we were taken to the cathedral by Mr. Eichenlaub. A pleasant fifteen-minute walk from our residence, the thirteenth-century cathedral has a commanding presence over the surroundings, perched on a hill overlooking the River Lahn.

The organ by Hans-Gerd Klais (1978) is a large four-manual with eight combinations, spread across the west gallery and will likely be restored in a year or so. Mr. Eichenlaub suggested we hear it from downstairs as he demonstrated its many colors, and it was of great value to hear it played beforehand. He is a very gifted improviser, and it felt somewhat surreal with the fatigue of the journey starting to bite hard as we wandered  around this magnificently beautiful building, with the evening sunshine streaming through the windows.

Then we were left to explore it for ourselves and begin registering the program which included Two Pieces for Organ Duet by Ronald Arnatt, a first for us. It proved to be quite a challenge to make this particular piece work on that organ; the second movement is aptly named “Octopus Music.” There was a video hook up for the concert itself (which was very well attended). We needed to change the pistons as we progressed since we had also chosen this as the venue to give the German première of our most recent commissioned duet, the 2me Suite pour orgue à quatre mains by French organist Jean-Luc Perrot. Following the concert we went to an excellent Spanish restaurant with our hosts and some of their friends.

During our time in Limburg we also enjoyed a barbeque on the lawn with the organist and his wife and son. We were the only visiting residents in the seminary, home to just a few nuns, in a spacious new building, so were alone and basically had the whole place to ourselves, with easy access to the small two-manual tracker organ in the chapel. Finally we were able to really concentrate on practice, instead of answering the telephone, meeting people to explain and discuss the aforementioned imminent recording project, and sending multiple e-mails and letters. Just being at the organ and making music was very therapeutic--how we wished life could always be like that!

Fulda (First visit)

Leaving Limburg on Sunday July 20, we took the train to Fulda and were greeted that afternoon by Domorganist Hans-Jürgen Kaiser and taken to the Priester Seminar where we had individual rooms with a shower. It was relatively spartan accommodation, home to several priests in training from all over the world, including French-speaking from Africa, but quiet and comfortable, and situated just behind the cathedral. There was also a rail timetable thoughtfully posted on the notice board. Our good friend David Pearson in Kiel had supplied us with various train times for our travels; he acts as our agent in Germany and was a key player in all the Fulda arrangements.

The cathedral was built in the new Baroque manner (1704-1712) to the design of the architect Johann Dientzenhofer and is an outstanding work of art. Inspired by the Roman Baroque style, it reuses the architectural core of the ancient Abbot Ratgar’s Basilica (9th century). In keeping with the splendor of the building in which it is housed, the organ is truly magnificent. The glorious case dates from the time of the cathedral’s construction, and today the organ consists of 72 speaking stops, including some 24 from the large Sauer organ of 1876/77 which was rebuilt and enlarged by Christoph Glatter-Götz of Rieger-Orgelbau and completed in 1996. The specification can be found on the company’s website <www.riegerorgelbau.com/db/pdf/Fulda.pdf&gt;. The four-manual console is well equipped with a multiple memory system (32x12 generals), two-way sequencer and additional electric action for some of the couplers. What a great thrill it is to play this wonderful instrument, and Mr. Kaiser was most helpful during our time in Fulda. We were allowed access to the organ in the evenings and partly during the lunch hours when we could play quietly.

David Rogers arrived the day after with his very specialized and compact recording equipment. At last the much anticipated recording project of organ works by Petr Eben was about to begin. Over several nights spread over one and a half weeks, Sylvie recorded Job (a narrator in Montréal has recorded the French text of the Biblical readings to go between the movements), and I did Faust, A Festive Voluntary and A Small Chorale Partita. There were a few unexpected interruptions--on one evening a private guided tour, and on another evening a trainee priest began practicing the organ in the chapel behind the high altar. Because it is also a monastery and a major learning place, from time to time there were some extraneous noises that had a tendency to arrive just as the last chord was dying away! Despite this, there was hardly any traffic noise because the cathedral is perfectly situated away from roads. We had been lent a set of keys, and on one evening had considerable trouble locking the cathedral door. Something was wrong with the lock and it was fixed the next day.

Rheda-Wiedenbrück

We interrupted our time in Fulda later that week and rented a car driven by David Rogers to go to Rheda-Wiedenbrück, our next port of call. As we went to collect it we noticed a German newspaper photograph with major headlines from Iraq and two familiar faces front and center. One fact about concert touring is that we tend not to follow the news, and in Fulda we had neither radio nor television. On the journey, in which we ran into some very heavy rain, we picked up news on the car radio. The hotel in Rheda-Wiedenbrück was the first time we had seen a television screen since leaving Montréal, and the demise of these two individuals was the big news of the week, along with gruesome photos.

Upon arrival we were met by a lady at the hotel who gave us the church keys; we deposited our cases and went to eat. We were ravenous and found a pizzeria close to the church and went in about 7 pm, fully expecting to be out by 8:30 pm--the organ was available all evening. In the end it took nearly forty-five minutes after placing the order before the soup was served and nearly an hour after that for the pizza, which was very ordinary. It was approaching 10 pm before we left the restaurant, irritated by the apparent indifference of the patron, and not in the mood to have a good practice. It was almost dark by this time and we fumbled around in the gloom trying to find switches and keyholes. We registered the program, grateful for the playing aids, and returned to the hotel.

The next day, Friday July 25, David Pearson arrived for a surprise visit in time for the concert at St. Clemens Kirche, where the three-manual organ is by Fischer & Krämer (1984), details of which can be found at <www.fischer-kraemer.de/rheda.htm&gt;. It was our third concert in this church where a few years ago we first met Ralf Bölting, composer of several organ duets. Our program included one work we commissioned from him in 2000, the Toccata on “Vom Himmel hoch” (the third movement of the Triptych on German Christmas Carols), but unfortunately he could not attend the concert. We have several good original Christmas duets in our repertory, but are frequently asked not to play them during the summer, so we were happy to be able to include it.

Zwillbrock

On Saturday the four of us filled the rented car and headed to Borken to stay with our good friend Kurt-Ludwig Forg, director of the music school there, a recitalist and author of numerous articles and a frequent visitor to North America. We left David Pearson in Münster so he could take the train north to Kiel because of services the next day.

On Sunday afternoon July 27, we played a concert to a capacity audience at the Barockkirche St. Franziskus in Zwillbrock, a delightful small village on the Dutch border. The website (in German) <www.zwillbrock.de/barockkirche/&gt; contains information about the historic two-manual organ and an interior photograph of this beautiful baroque building. It is possible to perform a complete concert of original organ duets on a small instrument and gain very satisfactory results, and this particular one served the repertory really well. The program included Fugue à six parties et deux sujets à 4 mains by Clément Loret and Petite Suite by Canadian organist and composer Denis Bédard, and many of our CDs were sold afterwards. We have given concerts on organs of all sizes and found repertory that is suitable in each case.  That is the challenge for the performer--to construct an interesting program on the organ that is available. We aim to exploit the resources of repertory and instrument as much as possible. It is amazing what some of these smaller instruments can do.

Fulda (Second visit)

Then it was back to Fulda to begin the second week of recording sessions, having fulfilled our concert duties for the time being, and avoiding the heavy service schedule in the cathedral over the weekend. Because we had the car we took a pleasant day off and made a pilgrimage to Eisenach which is not far away in former East Germany. The border is no longer apparent, but passing through the flowing landscapes of Thuringia familiar to Bach and entering the town of Eisenach, there is much evidence of reconstruction. We parked the car close to the Georgenkirche where Bach was baptized. It was also the scene of major protests in 1989, as documented in several photographs in the church aisles depicting all three galleries filled with the townsfolk as the Communist era was nearing its final sunset there. The Bachhaus, Bach’s birthplace, was the first museum to be dedicated to Johann Sebastian Bach and is well worth a visit. Established in 1906 through the Neue Bachgesellschaft, its collection includes archives, household items and other treasures from the time of Bach, in addition to a valuable assortment of musical instruments. The visit includes a live demonstration of these historical  instruments. In the souvenir shop we purchased several recordings, a poster of the Bach Family Tree, and a tie and umbrella of Bach’s handwriting. Meanwhile a baseball cap (which at one time I would never have imagined wearing) provided invaluable protection against the burning sun.

During that last week in Fulda we also visited the Michaelskirche adjacent to the cathedral; it is one of the most notable medieval sacred buildings in Germany--its crypt dates from Carolingian times originating between 819 and 822 as the burial chapel in the former Benedictine monks’ cemetery on the same site. Daily at 6 pm the bells peal forth from both the cathedral tower and  the Michaelskirche. What a glorious sound this is, which David Rogers captured on tape. We have decided to add it to the end of Sylvie’s CD.

For the recording sessions we stayed in the cathedral until around midnight every night, finishing the proceedings in the congenial surroundings of a neighboring hostelry where we mulled everything over before turning in for the night. Finally we accomplished what we set out to achieve, two compact discs of works by Petr Eben. One night we were treated to a spectacular thunderstorm and on another night, returning to the seminary at about 1:45 am, we could hear the organ in the cathedral and quietly went to investigate. The great instrument on the west gallery was being played, along with the one at the other extremity of the building in the chapel behind the high altar. A work for two organs--both organists were remarkably together, but we never found out who they were.

Itzehoe

On Friday August 1, we went our separate ways; David Rogers headed back to England and we travelled north to Kiel to stay with David Pearson, with whom we took the train to Itzehoe on Saturday where we found the four-manual 1905 Sauer to be quite disappointing, despite a relatively comprehensive specification, far from what the stoplist had promised by way of sound selection. The program included the very first organ duet by a Canadian composer, Duet for Organ by Frederick R.C. Clarke dating from 1954. This concert attracted the lowest audience of the tour with about twenty-five in attendance. However we played an encore on the other instrument that shares the gallery, some four stops that contain original Arp Schnitger pipes from 1716-1719.

Estonia

Our first visit to Estonia began on Monday August 4, when we took the airport bus from Kiel to Hamburg and boarded the Estonian Air flight to Tallinn where we were to give three concerts in the Tallinn XVII International Organ Festival, the first Canadian organists and duettists to be invited to perform in this prestigious festival which came into being in 1987. As such we were the grateful recipients of a grant from the Canada Council for the Arts under their International Performance Assistance in Music (Pilot Project). Our programs acknowledged that support.

The meal on the plane was surprisingly good, and upon arrival we were met by Eva-Maria Asari from the Canadian embassy and Tiiu Valper, assistant to Festival Artistic Director Andres Uibo, and driven to the hotel in old Tallinn where all the performers are lodged, aptly named “Old Town Maestro’s.” This was the beginning of a lovely week which included a guided tour of the Canadian embassy with its magnificent view over a part of the city walls, and the harbor. We received an invitation for lunch a few days later with the Canadian Ambassador, His Excellency Mr. Robert Andrigo, and his wife, along with other representatives from the embassy and the festival. It was of course an honor and pleasure to be guests of the ambassador and his staff and to discuss our career and performance plans. My mother arrived in Tallinn also, staying in another hotel outside the old town. This was the only time on the tour we could meet up because once again a trip to my native England was not possible this year.

The festival itself featured artists from several countries and each generally performed in three different venues, not just in Tallinn but in other towns as well, and attended each others’ concerts when possible. On the  first evening we attended an excellent organ recital by Andras Viragh from Hungary in the cathedral (Tallinna toomkirik) where there is a large three-manual Sauer (1913). This church also has one of the largest collections in all of Europe of coat-of-arms epitaphs of well-to-do families dating from the medieval era. Later in the week Andres Uibo gave a splendid concert at the Niguliste muuseum-kontserdisaal (Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall) which included a fine Fuge in D minor by Rudolf Tobias (1873-1918) whose picture appears on the 50 Krooni note alongside an organ, the only banknote in the world that has an organ on it (also available on a souvenir fridge magnet).

On August 9 we attended a most satisfying program entitled “Dance and Mass.” The dance was in the first half, the dancers being the Vilnius Camargo Troupe, and the Estonian Baroque Soloists playing Lully, Campra, Bach, Vivaldi and others from the period, all choreographed. “A Mass for Sunday Misericordia Domini” was the title of the second half consisting of Gregorian chant and North German baroque organ music. Peter van Dijk from Holland performed Scheidemann, Hasse, Praetorius, extracts from the Tablature of Martinus Leopolita (ca. 1580), Sweelinck, Karges and Buxtehude. The choral Mass sections were sung by the ensemble Vox Clamantis, which comprises a diversity of musicians, singers, composers, instrumentalists and conductors who all have a common interest in Gregorian chant, under the direction of Jaan-Eik Tulve. The musical forces were a finely balanced complement all the way through the concert.

Our first recital was on Tuesday August 5 in the impressive Pärnu Concert Hall which is less than one year old and fully equipped. Pärnu is a very popular holiday resort in Estonia, particularly favored by politicians. The organ builder Martin ter Haseborg was present when we arrived and was available should there be problems with the instrument. There remained a few pipes that still needed to be connected and some finishing touches to the instrument here and there, but this did not affect our program during which we gave the Estonian premières of three of our commissioned works: Sinfonietta by Denis Bédard; Dance Suite for Organ Duet by South-African born Canadian organist and composer Jacobus Kloppers; and the aforementioned 2me Suite pour orgue à quatre mains by Jean-Luc Perrot. The specification of the three-manual organ along with photographs can be found at <www.concert.ee/eesti/parnu/orel/index.php&gt;.

The second concert was originally scheduled to be in Viljandi on a two-manual instrument but in due course this was changed to Räpina Church on Thursday August 7. Räpina is a somewhat bare place near the Russian border not far from Lake Peipsi, the fifth largest lake in Europe. The priest welcomed us, along with the local organ maintenance technician. Before the concert the priest and his wife invited us to their home for some refreshments. The audience was spread around the church and on the gallery, and the organ was in many ways the most satisfying instrument we played in Estonia. The program included  the Sonata in G minor (op. 50) by Leberecht Baumert, a fine duet that has only recently become generally available, and the Estonian première of the Petite Suite of Denis Bédard. The concert closed with some prayers led by the priest. There was  not a great deal of time to rehearse, as in Pärnu, and we collected a poster bearing a variant of my name-- Sphilip Crozier. The return journey was beautified with a fabulous sunset,  around 11 pm in early August.

I should mention that we had a preview of Estonia three years ago when Karl Raudsepp, a Montréal-based organbuilder, gave a very captivating talk and video presentation to the Montréal Centre of the RCCO on Balticum 2000, the ISO Congress of that year that visited Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. Karl is the only member of his family not to have been born in Estonia, and he has been preparing an inventory of Estonian organs. I am grateful to him for the following information:

The organ in Räpina Church is a fairly large two-manual instrument, built by August Terkmann in 1934. It also incorporates some stops from the 1857 organ originally built by the Tartu organbuilder, August Kessler. The new stoplist was worked out in conjunction with the well-known Estonian composer and organ teacher, August Topman. It was the last instrument built by Terkmann. Among his employees at the time were the brothers Oskar and Voldemar Gutmann as well as Otto and Alfred Gutdorf.

The stoplist is as follows:

Manual I

16’             Bourdon

8’                  Principal

8’                  Gamba

8’                  Flauto amabile

8’                  Doppelgedackt

8’                  Gemshorn

8’                  Salicional

4’                  Oktav

4’                  Hohlflöte

22/3’        Quinte

2’                  Oktav

                        Cornett III-V

                        Cymbel III-IV

                        Subkoppel II-I

                        Superkoppel II-I

                        Superkoppel I

Manual II (under expression)

16’             Gedackt

8’                  Geigenprincipal

8’                  Quintaton

8’                  Flöte

8’                  Lieblichgedackt

8’                  Viola

8’                  Vox celeste

4’                  Principal

4’                  Rohrflöte

2’                  Koppelflöte

                        Mixtur III-V

8’                  Trompete

                        Subkoppel II

                        Superkoppel II

                        Glocken

                        Tremolo

Pedal

16’             Principalbass

16’             Subbass

16’             Gedacktbass

8’                  Oktavbass

8’                  Cello

102/3’   Quinte

16’             Posaune

                        I-P

                        II-P

                        Superkoppel II-P

The Echo organ, planned for installation in the gallery behind the altar, and playable from Manual II, was never built due to the lack of funds. It would have comprised the following stops:

Echo

8’                  Fernflöte

8’                  Undamaris

4’                  Gemshorn

Karl also added in a further e-mail to me that August Terkmann is credited with introducing many new technical innovations into organ building in Estonia, including the use of electricity. His instruments are renowned for their gentle voicing and singing quality. Räpina’s organ stands out as a remarkable example of his work.

Our third concert was at the Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall on Sunday August 10. Details and photographs of this former church can be found at <www.ekm.ee/english/niguliste/&gt;. The organ was built in 1981 by the Rieger-Kloss company and has 4 manuals and pedal, 63 registers, and 4711 pipes. The  program included two movements from one of our commissioned duets, Suite de noëls by Canadian organist and composer Gilles Rioux, as well as the Bombardo-Carillon by Charles Henri Valentin Alkan for pedals alone, and ending with the Toccata Française (sur le nom de H.E.L.M.U.T.) by Ralf Bölting which is a real showcase work. The concert was attended by the ambassador and the full staff of the Office of the Canadian Embassy and broadcast live on Estonian Classical Radio. Before this concert I recorded an interview for the same program that was aired during the interval.

At the conclusion of the concert there was a fine reception hosted by the festival which is run by the State Concert Institute Eesti Kontsert and in our experience is extremely well organized. Ground transportation in the form of comfortable mini buses belonging to Eesti Kontsert was provided from the airport and back, and for the two-hour drive to Pärnu and three-hour ride to Räpina. In each of these venues outside Tallinn we received the same courtesy and warm welcome extended to us in Tallinn. The driver himself, an employee of Eesti Kontsert, was responsible for the distribution of programs in Räpina where everything ran smoothly. We had the chance to explore a bit during some of the free time that week. It was most interesting to go into a supermarket, something that always fascinates me in different countries, and it was very well stocked with all the usual household necessities. Milk products were in abundance, so they have their act together on that one. Just a visit to a supermarket can give a snapshot of the location--and if this was anything to go by, Estonia is on the right path.

Garding

The week passed very quickly in Estonia, before we returned to Kiel on Monday August 11, for the next venue a couple of days later in Garding, some two hours by train. It is a beautiful small town, and the delightful ancient St. Christianskirche was completely full for the concert which we opened with the Duet for Organ by Samuel Wesley. The organ was built in 1974 by the Schuke company of Berlin. The organ case of the Hauptwerk dates back to 1512, and as such is the oldest unchanged organ case in North Germany. The casework for the Rückpositiv was completed in 1680. The specification is below:

Hauptwerk (C-f3)

8’                  Regal

8’                  Prinzipal

8’                  Rohrflöte

4’                  Oktave

2’                  Oktave

                        Mixtur IV-V

8’                  Trompete

Rückpositiv (C-f3)

8’                  Gedackt

4’                  Rohrflöte

4’                  Prinzipal

2’                  Gemshorn

11/3’        Quinte

                        Sesquialter II (from c0)

                        Scharff III-IV

Pedal (C-f1)

16’             Subbaß

8’                  Prinzipal

4’                  Choralbaß

                        Hintersatz IV

16’             Fagott

Saarbrücken

After a couple of days rest in Kiel we headed south to Saarbrücken on Friday August 15 to play at the Basilika St. Johannis. We met our host Bernhard Leonardy, organist of the basilica, later in the evening, and visited the town in his open top sports car. This was a first for us too, exhilarating to experience the fresh midnight air like this. We had only one hour on the organ before the 11:30 am recital the next day, but fortunately the five-manual Hugo Mayer from Saarland organ has a multiple memory system. Further information about the church and a specification of the organ with photographs of the console can be found at <www.basilika-sb.de/&gt;.

Wiesbaden

After the concert we ate at a small snack bar near the station because we had our luggage with us and needed to be at the station for the train that gave us good connections to Wiesbaden. Travel from Saarbrücken to Wiesbaden was plagued with rail problems, beginning with the non-arrival of the ICE that was running one hour late, forcing us to take a taxi from Mainz to Wiesbaden. Gabriel Dessauer, organist of  St. Bonifatius, had left instructions for us to be at the church to collect various keys after the Saturday evening Mass. He was away and was only returning in time for our concert on Sunday afternoon. Over the years we have developed a technique for working rapidly on a new instrument--we prepare for the eventuality that there is often a short amount of practice time on the instrument due to circumstances beyond our control--but we do find it is invaluable to gain access to the organ the day before the concert. On this occasion we almost missed an evening on the three-manual Mayer organ which has 640 pistons allowing for instant comparison of various registration options and is “user-friendly.” Information about the church and organ and music are on the church website <www.st-bonifatius-wiesbaden.de/&gt; and there is an English section too.

Gabriel Dessauer arrived the day of the concert to greet us. Our visit coincided with an annual Fest going on in the town, with a huge selection of wines, beers and food on stands in the main town square. It was so good to be part of this great celebration but a huge downpour of rain, essential though with the heat wave going on at the time, watered it down somewhat. The church with its vibrant acoustics was akin to a sauna bath.

Heiligenhafen

Following Wiesbaden we returned north to Kiel, breaking the journey for a second visit to Borken to see Kurt-Ludwig Forg for a couple of days. Such free days are much appreciated in a concert tour. The last concert in Germany was on Thursday August 21 at the Stadtkirche in the coastal town of Heilgenhafen which boasts much tourism and fish restaurants, but lacks reasonable public transportation, not being served by a railway, and a bus service that finishes before the end of the concert. David Pearson came with us for the day trip and we were well received by the organist Dörte Czernitzski. The concert was very well attended; one special characteristic was that the organ bench was polished to perfection, enabling us to slide forward straight into the pedalboard with effortless ease. So we had to be vigilant all the time! 

Paris

The next day we had an early start for the long train journey to Frankfurt airport from where we had an evening flight to Paris. Late trains and missed connections had become quite rife on this trip (not typical of Germany, I might add), so we decided it was better to be safe than sorry. In Paris we were met by Sylvie’s brother who has lived in France for more than thirty years. On Saturday afternoon we went to rehearse at La Madeleine to find that there were two weddings so we had to return in the evening.

General Kalck, who is in charge of concert organization, proudly demonstrated the organ to us. As he was explaining the various registers and their history, I was observing and memorizing their location. One interesting fact about this organ is its shortage of 8’ diapason stops. There is a wide plethora of sound at 8’ pitch, but only one Montre 8’ on the Grand Orgue and Positif respectively, and not on the other two manuals. The absence of more principal sound at 8’ pitch is not so noticeable. A multi-memory system accelerates matters much faster in the relatively short practice time available. He left us to it, giving us precise instructions and exact telephone numbers to call when we had finished so we could be let out of the building. Reassuringly, they matched those posted on the organ console, so we enjoyed exploring the delights of this wonderful monument of French organ building, with its grandstand view down into the nave (not so easy if one is afraid of heights).

La Madeleine has had a long succession of distinguished organists including  Camille Saint-Saëns (1857-1877), Théodore Dubois (1877-1896), Gabriel Fauré (1896-1905) and Jeanne Demessieux (1962-1968). After about three hours we had done all the necessary work and then telephoned but could not obtain a free line. Half an hour later, with no joy whatsoever, it seemed we were doomed to spend the night in the Madeleine. Sylvie stayed upstairs, trying the telephone again and again, while I went hunting for exit points and other telephones. Thus I discovered just about every door in the building, various tunnels, spiral staircases and iron grills. Tourists do not usually have the freedom and privilege of such explorations; what a wonderful place it is! In the sacristy I found another telephone in the dark but  still could not get a line, then a portable one that I took back into the church so I could see better. Between us we tried everything but nothing worked. I continued walking around, sincerely hoping I would trigger an alarm somewhere, but after about forty-five long minutes a voice shouted from high up over the high altar to enquire if we had terminated for the night because the organ was no longer being played. It was a janitor and we informed him that obtaining a telephone line was impossible. After checking the telephones and finding them to be in order he let us out. It was a relief to be outside on the street. The next day General Kalck greeted us with a question “what happened last night?” Then he added “did you add a zero to the number?” That was the key to the problem.

The concert was attended by over 500 people, many of them Parisians returning to the city after their traditional month away. Jean-Luc Perrot and his wife also came to hear the performance of his 2me Suite pour orgue à quatre mains which in fact was its première in France. François-Henri Houbart, organist of La Madeleine since 1979, was away for that weekend, performing a concert elsewhere so we did not have the opportunity to meet him.

The next day we flew back to Montréal, arriving home tired but fulfilled. Before the trip we purchased some good disposable cameras so we could have a record of everything because our own camera had recently become non-functional. We took numerous photographs including all the organs and their consoles and most of the people mentioned in this article, and eagerly awaited their development. When I went to collect them they were unrecognizable! The photographs had been mixed up with another customer when they were forwarded to a central processing plant and were never traced. The photos here are by David Rogers.

List of repertory performed on this tour (all organ duets)

*Sinfonietta, Denis Bédard (1950-)

Petite Suite, Bédard

Two Pieces for Organ Duet (1989), Ronald Arnatt (1930-): “Sarabande with Variations,” “Octopus Music”

Fantasie in f-Moll, KV 608, W. A. Mozart (1756-1791)

Fantasie in f-Moll, KV 594, Mozart

Fuge in g-Moll, KV 401, Mozart

*Dance Suite for Organ Duet, Jacobus Kloppers (1937-)

Fugue in D major, Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (1809-1847)

Adagio, WoO 33/1, Ludwig van Beethoven (1770-1827)

*2me Suite pour orgue à quatre mains, Jean-Luc Perrot (1959-)

Sonate g-Moll, op. 50, Leberecht Baumert (1833-1904)

Duet for Organ, Frederick R. C. Clarke (1931-)

*Toccata on “Vom Himmel hoch,” Ralf Bölting (1953-)

Toccata Française (sur le nom de H.E.L.M.U.T.), Bölting

Duet for Organ, Samuel Wesley (1766-1837)

Vier variierte Choräle für die Orgel zu vier Händen, op. 19, Christian Gottlob Höpner (1799-1859)

Fugue à six parties et deux sujets à 4 mains, Clément Loret (1833-1909)

Sonate in d-moll, op. 30, Gustav Merkel (1827-1885)

Präludium und Fuge in B-dur, Johann Georg Albrechtsberger (1736-1809)

Praeludium und Fuge in C-dur, Albrechtsberger

Introduction und Fuge in d-Moll, op. 62, Franz Lachner (1803-1890)

Fugue in e-Moll, op. posth. 152, Franz Schubert (1797-1828)

*Suite de noëls (extracts), Gilles Rioux (1965-): “L’Attente” (Venez divin Messie), “La joie” (Il est né le divin Enfant)

Bombardo-Carillon, Charles Henri Valentin Alkan (1813-1888)

* Organ duets commissioned and premièred by Sylvie Poirier and Philip Crozier

The 43rd Annual Convention of the Organ Historical Society Denver, June 21-27, 1998

by Malcolm Wechsler

Malcolm Wechsler, of N. P. Mander, Ltd. - U. S. A., is Organist/Choirmaster at Trinity Episcopal Church, Stamford, CT.

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Day One - Sunday, June 21

The convention day began at 1 p.m., the morning being filled with arrivals and registrations. First venue: The Paramount Theater, with its remarkable 20-rank WurliTzer, which speaks clearly and forcefully into the room from big, open chambers on either side. The Pedal is incredibly strong and quick. There is a tremendous variety of solo sounds, all of which we heard. The program began with the two consoles rising majestically from under the stage, with Joel Kremer and Robert Castle at the main console and "slave" console,  respectively, giving us a great medley of popular show tunes. It being Sunday, we made a feeble attempt to sing "The church's one foundation," accompanied by Robert Castle in something other than the "cathedral tradition," and without us having words in front of us. Robert then pushed a switch on the left side of the "slave," that sent it slowly back to the basement. Joel Kremer continued with several solo pieces, ending with "The Stars and Stripes Forever." Professor of History at the University of Colorado, Thomas Noel, then gave us, with slides, some history of Denver's development, which was partly spurred by a secondary gold rush, about a decade after the great one to California. James Mosby Bratton, complete with slides, spoke to the topic "Hook Your Hastings to a Steere," a history of Denver and area churches and organs. All too often, seeing the slide of a wonderful, old church building, we learned that it had been torn down or the organ replaced by an electronic substitute.

After a break, we returned to our seats for "White Desert," a full-length, wonderfully-made 1925 silent film about the building of the railroad through the mountains west of Denver. This was both a "cliff-hanger" and a "tear jerker," the effect heightened greatly by Robert Castle's seamless and suitable accompaniment on the great organ. Everyone was a bit drained and teary-eyed when the lights came up.

After dinner on our own, we were bussed to St. John's in the Wilderness Episcopal Cathedral for a glorious, if to some, a bit radical, Evensong. I was personally moved by the whole service, and in at least one place, to my great surprise. Donald Pearson is the Cathedral's musician, and his very capable associate is John Repulski. The organ is the justly celebrated 1938 Kimball, recently restored. Donald Pearson began with the ravishing Frank Bridge Adagio, followed by the Invitatory, from a set of Responses by Pearson, all of which we heard during the course of the service. Phos Hilaron was a plainsong-like setting by Richard Proulx, with several refrains for us all to sing. Psalm 138 was sung to an attractive verse-with-fauxbourdons sort of music by Glen McGrath. The Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis were the South American Rhythm-inspired settings by Bryan Kelly. We sang the Apostles' Creed on one note, accompanied by a lush chordal organ accompaniment by Jeffrey Rickard. In Donald Pearson's setting of the Versicles and Responses, the versicle was in each case accompanied richly, using mostly harp-like sounds, on an electronic keyboard played by John Repulski. I have an innate resistance to the presence of loudspeakers in church music-making, but I have to say, I found this very effective, and even beautiful. The music is well-written, the performance was solid, and there was clear amplification of the sound, with no distortion. Here followed three fine anthems, confidently sung by the very large Cathedral Choir: "O sing to the Lord with hymns newly made," by Donald Pearson; "How lovely are the messengers," Mendelssohn; and "How lovely are your dwellings," by John Leavitt. We finished with a rousing singing of Lauda Anima, "Praise, my soul, the King of Heaven," as only an OHS congregation can provide.

After a short stretch, we were treated to "A Concert of Mighty Organ Duets," played by Donald Pearson and John Repulski: Mozart, Fantasia K.608, four hands enriching the harmonies; Danse Macabre (Saint-Saëns), four hands; the C Major Soler Concerto, Andante and Minuet, with John Repulski going to a small Casavant continuo/chamber organ; The Ride of the Valkyries, with a wonderful thick texture, made possible by four hands. After singing "O filii et filiae" from the 1982 Hymnbook, we heard John Rutter's variations on it for two organists; Ragtime by Charles Callahan; and finally, French Toccata on the name Helmut, by Ralf Bölting (b. 1953). The performers were buoyed by the great ovation at the end, including many shouts of Bravo.

And so ended a great OHS first day!

Monday, June 22

Day two begins in Lyons, CO, and in line with convention policy, we are gradually experiencing higher and higher altitudes. Yesterday, it was enough just to adjust to mile high Denver. Today, we are at 8,500 feet. Tomorrow is a day in Denver, and on Wednesday, we will spend some of the day at over 10,000 feet. On this clear, beautiful day, we are surrounded by snow capped mountains, and are told we will be throwing snowballs by day's end! Enough travelogue.

The first musical event of the day took place at The Old Stone Church of Lyons with Will Headlee, Professor of Organ Emeritus, Syracuse University. The organ: Hook & Hastings two-manual, 9 stops, Opus 1948, built in 1902, an organ of great charm and beauty. Will Headlee is a regular at OHS conventions, and his cheerful playing, programming, and comments are always a delight. He also makes a point of telling helpful bits about his registrations, which really explored the organ very effectively. The program: Mendelssohn, Allegro con brio (Sonata 4); J.S. Bach, Wer nur den lieben Gott (Schübler); Rheinberger, Vision; Hobart Whitman (1904-1952), Elegy (1947); Charles Quef (1873-1931), Noël Parisien (1904); hymn, a rousing performance of "When morning gilds the skies" (Laudes Domini, Barnby).

First United Methodist Church, Boulder--Bruce Stevens, another welcome regular at these conventions. The organ: Frank Roosevelt, No. 382, built in 1888, a gutsy 3-manual instrument of about 35 stops. The program, a stolid collection of music, none of which I had heard before, full of interest, and beautifully played: Fleury, Variations on a Burgundian Noel "When, in the frosty season"; Soler, Sonatas in E minor and G Major; Fr. Davide da Bergamo (1750-1830), Sonatina for Offertory or Post Communion; Bonnet, Second Legend, op. 7, no. 10; Jongen, Cantabile, op. 37, no. 1; Rheinberger, Sonata No. 5 in F-sharp Major, op. 111; hymn, "I vow to thee, my country" (Thaxted, Gustav Holst).

Next came the great climb up to Central City, at 8,500 feet, first stop St. James United Methodist Church, to hear Jane Edge. As you will see below, she manages to find totally unusual programs--I thought I knew nothing on her list, but did discover that I recognized Narcissus, which I think I must have played on the piano as a child. The whole recital was great fun, played with spirit, and with registrations that showed careful thought, therefore showing off this charming instrument beautifully. The organ: J. W. Steere and Son, Opus 456, 1899, 16 stops. The program: hymn, "Praise, my soul, the King of Heaven" (Lauda Anima); F. Opel (??), Opening Voluntary (arr. from Farmer's Mass); Ole Bull (1810-1880), Solitude on the Mountain (arr. for organ by Claude F. Saunier); W. Hewitt (??), French Air With Variations (The Air turned out to be Twinkle twinkle, little star); Stravinsky, Berceuse from The Firebird (arr. for organ by J. T. Quarles); Horatio Parker, Impromptu, op. 17, no. 2; Ethelbert Nevin, arr. for organ by Reginald Goss-Custard, 1. The Rosary, 2. Narcissus; Easthope Martin (d. 1928), Evensong; Liszt, Adagio; Whiting, "Onward, Christian Soldiers" (something I would love to do as a postlude at home--possibly on my very last Sunday!).

A walk down the hill brought us to St. Paul's Episcopal Church, a fine-looking stone building, with a rather chaotic interior. The Anglican Spirit greeted us right inside the door, where we were offered iced cappuccino and lots of cookies, and a big collection basket seeded with dollar bills already. We were well and truly crammed into this church, with people standing all around. The charming James Mosby Bratton, retired U. of Denver professor whom we had heard talk at the Paramount the day before, presented a recital on a Mason & Risch Vocalion (a "first class reed organ"), No. 1033 (1893). He had some help with pumping, apparently much more strenuous at 8,500 feet, given the thin air. We began by singing a song, "Colorado Home," to the tune of "Home on the range." The rest of the program: Bach, Prelude in d minor (BWV 539); Willing, General Custer's Funeral March, op. 43; Louis Adolphe Coerne (1870-1922), Bagatelle, op. 24, no. 1; Gustav Baumhauser, Pike's Peak March (c. 1875); Lefébure-Wély, Fugue in d minor, op. 122, no. 6.

After this program, we were at liberty to explore the town and find some dinner on our own. Colorado has permitted three dying old mining towns to open casinos, and Central City is full of them. As is true in casinos elsewhere, meals are available at very low prices, and we ate in the dining room above one such, with Prime Rib for about $3. The food was good and plentiful, too.

Winding down the mountain on the bus, we reached the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Denver, where Fred Hohman delivered himself of lots of bombast, interspersed with some more delicate fare. The room is quite vertical, and despite carpeting everywhere, there is plenty of resonance bouncing off the hard surface walls and ceiling, and plenty of organ sound to do the bouncing! The organ was basically a Kimball, but is now, at least in large part, a new 3-manual instrument of about 35 stops by Ivan P. Morel & Associates, a well-regarded area builder. Fred, who is well-known for his skill as a transcriber, played a program entirely of works originally for the organ, as follows: Vierne, Symphony No. 2 in E, op. 20, Allegro, Scherzo; Naïades (Pièces de Fantaisie, Fourth Suite, op. 55); Franck, Choral No. 2 in B minor; Widor, Finale from the Sixth Symphony; Dupré, The World Awaiting the Savior (Symphonie-Passion); Langlais, Cantilène (Suite Breve); Mulet, Tu es Petra (Byzantine Sketches); Duruflé, Sicilienne and Toccata (Suite, op. 5).

Tuesday, June 23

Day three began at the Scottish Rite Masonic Temple, where three stars were in evidence: Richard Purvis, Kenneth Matthews, and the mighty Kimball, all working together for good. Kenneth was a student of Purvis, and also presided over another great Kimball, at a Christian Science Church in San Francisco for some time--so he came to his task with experience. This 1924, 3-manual Kimball, very much a theatre style instrument, is located all over the ceiling, but despite what look like relatively small places for tonal egress, it has immense impact. It appears to be about 18 stops, greatly unified and extended. Kenneth Matthews knew exactly what to do to demonstrate all the organ's virtues, using as a vehicle Christmas music of Purvis. We could not have asked for a better demonstration of the organ's resources, including the Bass Drum, Chinese Gong, Harp, and Chimes. The program, all Purvis: Prelude Solennel (Veni Immanuel); Offertory (Resonet in Laudibus); Communion (Gaevaert); Carillon (Puer Nobis Nascitur); Greensleeves (from Four Carol Preludes); Pastorale (Forest Green, from 7 Chorale Preludes on Tunes Found in American Hymnals); hymn: "O come, all ye faithful," with our sopranos having some success with the Willcocks descant from memory; Carol Rhapsody.

We walked across the street to the First Baptist Church of Denver, to hear a large organ built originally in 1945 by Aeolian-Skinner for the ubiquitous Senator Emerson Richards, of New Jersey. By 1949, he was tired of it, bought a replacement, and Opus 1047 was sold to the Denver Baptists. If it sounded in New Jersey as it now sounds in Denver, I have no problem understanding the Senator's wish to replace it. In Denver, it is buried in chambers, and speaks out only with difficulty. I could not help wondering if our ears ever thought that was a wonderful sound! To be fair, there may be beauty in small combinations and solo stops, but we never did get to hear any of them. Raymond Garner chose a program that basically featured full organ primarily, not this organ's happiest mode. The program: Wagner, Fanfares from Parsifal, arr. Virgil Fox; Widor, Allegro from the Sixth Symphony; hymn, "Behold a Sower."

Jonathan Ambrosino took the lectern, and delivered himself of a splendid lecture entitled "The Transition from the Symphonic to the English Ensemble 1925-1940: Denver's Response to a National Trend." I do hope the text of this will become available--I have no doubt it will.

We had a pleasant lunch at the Temple Events Center Uptown, a former Jewish Temple. We could see but not hear the 1911 Estey with two similar cases. Imagine two large auditoria side-by-side, completely open to each other at the point of joining. In each of these auditoria is a platform, and a choir loft above with an organ case. There is only one console, at the case to the right. One assumes that the left side auditorium was for the great overflow of the High Holy Days, and that this was a clever, if expensive, way to provide equal organ coverage in both places.

Our next stop, the fine former Second Church of Christ, Scientist, now The Spiritual Assembly of the Baha'is of Denver. Baha'i worship makes no use of the organ, and the congregation had plans to try to sell it, but the local OHS gang stepped in, and made a case, successfully it would seem, that the organ should be preserved in situ. The Baha'i community has now embraced the instrument, and is planning a concert series in which it can be heard. That this large (3-manual, 34 stops) and wonderful Hook & Hastings, Opus 2370 of 1916, is worthy of preservation was more than amply demonstrated in a fine recital by Charles Rus, from San Francisco. He registered with wonderful care and imagination, enabling us to hear just about every possible combination of sounds. The program: Howells, Master Tallis' Testament; Schumann, No. 1 in C and No. 4 in D-flat of the Four Sketches for Pedal Piano; hymn, "Creation Spirit, by whose breath" (Herr Jesu Christ, dich zu uns wend'), with us singing the four stanzas of the hymn, one each after each of four variations on this tune by Georg Böhm. We sang in unison the rhythmic version found in the ELCA Hymnal. How lovely it would have been for us, glorious harmonists as we are, to have sung in four parts; Craig Phillips (b. 1961), Fantasy: Torah Song (Yisrael Voraita).

In yet another event demonstrating well the beauty of an old instrument, Dana Robinson of Davenport, Iowa played the following program in the South Gate Masonic Lodge Hall: Widor, Praeludium Circulaire from Symphony No. 2; Boëly, Andante con moto; Mozart, An Andante for a Cylinder in a Little Organ (K 616), Lasst uns mit geschlungnen Handen (Let us now with joined hands), appropriately from "A Little Freemason Cantata"; Liszt, Ave Maria von Arcadelt; hymn, "The spacious firmament on high," on which I thought we did quite well; and then, in a further inspired choice, Handel, Variations in E (The Harmonious Blacksmith). The organ--a tiny (7-stop) Farrand & Votey, Opus 776, c. 1897--made lots of music this day!

Next stop, the Iliff Theological Seminary Chapel to hear a rich and satisfying 1910 Wirsching organ of 16 stops. Richard Robertson, Denver, played the following program, which showed off the great power and variety of this instrument: Hurd, Suite in Three Movements (commissioned for this convention); Reger, Benedictus; Warlock, from Capriol Suite: 1. Pavane and Basse, 2. Danse; Mendelssohn, Prelude & Fugue in F Minor, op. 35.

After dinner at our hotel, back to St. John's Cathedral to hear the perfect match of music, instrument, and musician. I do believe that Thomas Murray is one of the most thorough of all performers in working out registration, and will limitlessly complicate his time at the console, if it means getting just the right effect. He also listens, as do very few, to what the instrument and building are telling him about tempo, texture, and touch. In addition to which, there is no more sensitive swell pedal foot in the organ world. We, and a large audience of non-OHS types as well, were the beneficiaries of all that work, in the following lovely program: Bach, Sinfonia from Cantata No. 29; Saint-Saëns, Prelude & Fugue in B Major; Elgar, Severn Suite, op. 87 (1932), transcribed by Thomas Murray. After a short intermission, Barbara Owen presented to the Junior Warden of the Cathedral, the OHS Plaque awarded to churches that have "instruments worthy of preservation," and have kept them well--certainly a well-deserved honor in this place. Fleury, Variations on a Burgundian Noël (heard earlier in the week); hymn, "Come down, O love divine" (Down Ampney); Rheinberger, Sonata No. 13, op. 161 (the opening theme of which is almost identical to the opening phrase of Down Ampney); encore: The last of Saint-Saëns Seven Improvisations, op. 150.

Wednesday, June 24

We reached maximum altitude, peaking at 11,300 feet at one point. Leadville, where we began our day, is, we were told, just 12 feet less than two miles above sea level, and I for one, really felt this, as did many others. It became most noticeable during the hymn singing. There clearly was not as much air to go around as one is used to. One of the local people told me that it can take six months to fully adjust. Around us, and slightly above us, was quite a bit of snow.

Lois Regestein, another regular at OHS conventions, played at St. George's Episcopal Church, on a gentle but lovely little George Ryder (1882) organ of 11-stops. Besides the fact that her program showed off the little organ very well, she made thoughtful and interesting connections with the organ and the town. Her program: Mendelssohn, Prelude in G, op. 37, no. 2; Woodman (b. 1957), Variations (selected) from Greensleeves; Mendelssohn, Fugue in G, op. 37, no. 2; (I did not get to ask Lois why she chose to break the Mendelssohn up in the manner of the Bach St. Anne in the Clavier Übung, part III. Did Mendelssohn somehow conceive of a split performance like that?) Having discovered the quality of the Oboe on this organ when she arrived in Leadville for the first time, Lois added at this point a little trumpet tune sort of piece of Telemann; Thomas Ryder (1836-1877), Moderato (Thomas Ryder was the brother of George Ryder, the organbuilder, and often dedicated his brother's instruments.); Douglas Moore, The Willow Song (from The Ballad of Baby Doe); (This was sung by Patti Smith, a wonderful soprano living in Leadville, but with a career well beyond her community. We had an interesting discussion about practicing daily in Leadville, with its very thin air, and then appearing in places closer to sea level. Apparently, in terms of breathing, this puts her at a decided advantage. Anyway, this was an ingenious bit of programming, as Baby Doe herself lived in Leadville!--well done, Lois!) Vaughan Williams, Prelude on Rhosymedre; hymn: "My song is love unknown" (Rhosymedre).

I first met and heard Grant Edwards last year at OHS in Portland, and thought his a very special musical personality, full of control, confidence, and good cheer, with clearly very careful preparation in every detail. Today's concert continued in that mold. It having been announced that the organ for today's performance might well be at least the second highest pipe organ in America, if not the first, Grant explained that he was convinced he was given this assignment because of his complaints last year in Portland about the bench not being high enough! We are now in First Presbyterian Church, Leadville, and the organ is a 13-stop instrument by William Schuelke, Opus 67 (1889). The program: Böhm, Partita on "Ach wie fluchtig, ach wie nichtig"; hymn: "What does the Lord require" to the lovely Erik Routley tune, Sharpthorne; Kodaly, Six Epigrams (charming pieces which Grant graciously substituted for the Vaughan Williams Rhosymedre, when he realized that Lois Regestein was going to play it); Widor, Pastorale from Symphony No. 2; Diemer, Farewell, Good Friends (Shalom Chaverim - 1996).

Next stop, Georgetown, and its very small Grace Episcopal Church. The group was broken into three parts, and Marilyn Stulken, another old hand at OHS conventions, had to play her program three times, while the rest wandered this interesting old town. I went to the group 3 recital, at the beginning of which, the church was given an OHS Plaque honoring its organ of "historical interest, and worthy of preservation." Quite a number of members of the congregation showed up for this--I think they are justly quite proud of the single manual, seven-stop instrument. It is a rare, intact survivor by Denver organbuilder Charles Anderson, built in 1876, and may well be the oldest organ in the state, although somewhat altered tonally. Marilyn gave a good demonstration of the organ, beginning with the Bach Partita on "O Gott, du frommer Gott." This was followed by two interludes from "Melodia Sacra," c. 1850, by George Frederick Bristow, after which we attempted to sing an old hymn written out with the melody in the tenor, "Jesus, the Conqueror reigns," to a tune called Germania. We were not a success. This was followed by two more of the Bristow interludes, after which we sang another hymn, "Awake, and sing the song," to Festal Song. We did much better this time around. The program finished with a Festival Postlude in D by W. Eugene Thayer.

At this point, music was done for the day. We were treated to a delightful narrow gauge steam train ride on the Georgetown Loop Railroad. The old steam engine was a marvel, making all the wonderful noises steam engines make, and with a very complex chord for a whistle! The scenery was spectacular. We then partook of a barbecue in the city park, with entertainment by the Queen City Jazz Band, playing in the old band stand. Back at the hotel, it was time to visit the last night of the exhibits and sales desks, and to spend, spend, spend on all the wonderful books, music, and CDs.

Those who know the OHS Catalogue will not be surprised that the many tables were littered with probably more organ and church music CDs than might have ever been seen under one roof. Joseph Vitacco was there representing his company, JAV Recordings, Ray Biswanger had a display and materials representing the Friends of the Wanamaker Organ, a truly worthy endeavor. Several members of the Richard Bond organbuilding team (Portland, Oregon) were on hand with large pictures of this excellent builder's work, and with a brand new, fine, and very attractive, three-stop continuo organ.

Thursday, June 25

We were scheduled for an earlier departure this morning--8:15 instead of the usual 8:30--but the bus company, creatures of habit, showed up at the usual time. No one would have minded, were it not for the fact that the Pharmacy Association was having its convention beginning today, and in the large lobby where we await the busses, there was laid out a most impressive breakfast spread. Most of us, unbreakfasted, tried removing our OHS badges and looking like pharmacists, but the tables were well guarded. No luck!

We bounced along I-225 South to Colorado Springs, and the Air Force Academy, to hear two organs in the Roman Catholic and Protestant Chapels respectively. Here, the work of designing the instruments and the job of building them were separate contracts, that in a state institution had to be put to tender separately. Walter Holtkamp Sr. won the design contracts, and Möller the building contracts. Holtkamp, I believe, voiced and finished the organs. Joseph Galema has been at the Academy since 1982, as Music Director of the Cadet Chapels since 1989. He is organist at the Protestant Chapel, and is responsible for ten choirs! He began his peripatetic recital in the Roman Catholic Chapel on the three-manual, 28-stop organ, as follows: Bach, Six Schübler Chorales; Gade, Festligt Präludium over Choralen "Lover den Herre." This Chapel is the basement of the chapel building, relatively low ceilinged, without resonance of any kind, but nonetheless clear and intimate. The Schüblers were probably the perfect vehicle for a demonstration, and much about the sound of this instrument strikes me as honest and good, after all these years. The Gade piece was a bit of a meander, I thought, not signifying very much, but I know others did indeed like it. A trumpeter was on hand just to play the choral and a bit more at the end.

We then walked upstairs to the Protestant Chapel with a three-manual, 62-stop instrument: hymn, "All creatures of our God and King" (Lasst uns erfreuen); Mathias, Jubilate, op. 67, no. 2; Gardner, Sonata da Chiesa sopra una tema di Claudio Monteverdi. I thought, given the great, soaring space (well worth seeing, inside and out) and a larger instrument (striking to look upon), we would hear something spacious and grand. I found the organ not really supportive in the hymn, nor projecting very well in the Mathias. Here is perhaps an example of a situation in which an encased instrument could really prove itself. In ensemble with two wonderful trumpet players in the Gardner, the organ was at its best--and what a truly amazing and wonderful piece this is, I say, as a long time Gardner fan. The main theme (there may have been others I did not recognize) was the majestic opening of the Coronation of Poppea, which, once heard (and seen), can never be forgotten. What Gardner does with it in four glorious movements is nothing less than magical. I am really grateful to Dr. Galema for bringing this to us.

We bussed to the dining hall at The Colorado College, also in Colorado Springs, for a sumptuous lunch, with many different food stations on offer, with all sorts of edibles, hot and cold, all one could eat, courtesy of Marriott Catering. I think I went to college too soon.

We walked across campus to Shove Memorial Chapel, wherein Frank Shelton, organist at Grace and St. Stephen's Parish, and College Organist, gave us a brilliant program full of interest, after Jonathan Ambrosino presented a "significant organ" plaque to a college official who had been instrumental in keeping the instrument and interest in it alive. The program: Simpson, Fantasy and Fugue on "My Lord, what a morning" (1994); Payne, Prelude, op. 19, no. 2; hymn, "O God, our help in ages past" (St. Anne) (The Colorado College Hymn!); Weaver, Passacaglia on a Theme by Dunstable (1978). The organ: Welte-Tripp Organ Corporation, Sound Beach, Connecticut, Opus 314, 1931, three manuals, 42 stops. There is a fascinating article in the convention book about this organ, and two names of great interest are involved in the history of the instrument: Richard Whitelegg and Charles Courboin. The convention book is available from OHS, and is full of information about a place that is very important in the development of the pipe organ in this country. And not at all by-the-way, this organ sounds really wonderful! I do believe that in some ways, it outdoes some Aeolian-Skinners of that time (1931). I found myself wondering if the Great chorus through mixture was truly of that period. It was silvery and brilliant.

We walked the few blocks to Grace and St. Stephen's Parish, Episcopal. In my little mental database of "Best Recitals Ever" was one played by Thomas Brown at the OHS Mini-Convention at Round Lake, New York last summer. Now I have to start a Tom Brown file, and put today's recital in beside the other one. It was an Anglophile's Orgy, played as last year entirely from memory, with everything perfectly in place--beautifully registered and wonderfully musical. There were lots of smiles around, and a spontaneous standing ovation at the end. The program: Bairstow, Prelude in C; Whitlock, Reflections (Three Quiet Pieces for Organ); Mendelssohn, Sonata in F minor; Karg-Elert, Chorale Prelude on "O Gott, du frommer Gott"; Vierne, Naïades; Grayston Ives (b. 1948), Entrata; hymn, "Sing we of the Blessed Mother" (Rustington - C. H. H. Parry). Methinks me heard the spirit of Henry Willis (Father) rustling around at the first notes of the play-through of this hymn. There are six manual 16' stops on the organ--I think perhaps they were all on! The organ: Welte (NY) opus 261, 1928, three manuals, 49 stops--a splendid organ, of great historic significance, and Frank Shelton, who had played at Shove Chapel, organist of Grace Church, accepted an OHS plaque.

Our next journey was to Manitou Springs, by way of an astonishing natural wonder, a place called The Garden of the Gods--gigantic outcroppings of a beautiful red rock, amongst many evergreens. It was like a very oversized sculpture park--around every corner, as we climbed, was yet another sight to take the breath away. Our goal was the Community Congregational Church, a lovely stone building, charming outside and in, and on the national register of historic buildings. There are two transept balconies, and I was busy dreaming up programs of Gabrieli and company. Surrounded as we were by great, high mountains, the inscription on the organ case announced: "Thy Righteousness is Like the High Mountains." The organ is our second by Charles Anderson of Denver: two-manual, 13 stops, built in approximately 1879. It seemed a bit transparent, after the two Weltes we had just been hearing. MaryAnn Crugher Balduf has been a regular at OHS conventions for some time. On the first day of the convention, she slipped getting off the bus (where is her lawyer when needed?) and was in some pain. But as always, gamely, she gave us the following interesting program, with helpful comments about her registrations: Pachelbel, Toccata in F; Benjamin Rogers (1614-1698), Prelude (Voluntary); Selby, A Fuge or Voluntary; Held (b. 1914), Flourish; Cadman, Legend, op. 30, no. 1; West, Passacaglia; Howells, Miniatures for Organ, nos. 12, 17, 18, 21; hymn, "O beautiful, for spacious skies" (Materna); Langlais, Prelude Modal; Sjogren, Fantasia, op. 15, no. 1.

Next, we rode to Pueblo, and to the Pacific Union Depot, a disused train station, now a restaurant, where we had a quite wonderful dinner. This was as close to a convention banquet as we get, so it was a time for a little OHS business and some heartfelt thanks to the members of the Denver committee, who had truly done a wonderful job with program and with organization. After dinner, we walked to the Memorial Auditorium, which contains Austin organ No. 860, of 1920, an instrument of 56 full stops, plus various bells and whistles, all of which got a workout during the evening. There are pipes all over the place, on the side and in the ceiling, plus an echo organ in back, all of which made possible a strong presence despite a very dead acoustic. The audience was not entirely our convention, we being joined by many others, possibly tourists, possibly town folk, or both. Paul Fleckenstein, I discovered tonight, is the perfect "town hall organist," possessed of great showmanship, total technical assurance, and a prodigious memory, and my goodness, he certainly knows how to get around that kind of instrument--finding an endless array of combinations. It was a terrific show, all from memory, beginning with the Choral, Minuet Gothique, Prière à Notre Dame, and Toccata from the Boëllmann Suite Gothique. This was followed by the seven parts of the ballet music from Gounod's Faust, in a terrific transcription, uncredited, so possibly Paul's own. Sharing in this concert was the Pueblo Chorale, a large and enthusiastic amateur choir, conducted by Charles Merritt. There were some lovely moments, but quite often, the inbuilt vocal limitations, particularly of the tenor variety, gave cause for alarm. I thought the choice of music a bit odd (Vierne Messe Solennelle), perhaps being something of a stretch for the non-musicians in the audience, not accustomed to a Latin Mass or the style of Louis Vierne. However, having thought that, I was probably wrong. The audience seemed genuinely interested, the choir was obviously very much into the music, and there was a great ovation at the end. Paul Fleckenstein's coloration and support at the organ were superb. After the Chorale left the stage, we all rose and sang, not half badly, the Star Spangled Banner, after which Paul played the Budley Duck variations really well. We hit the busses pretty quickly, and managed to get back to the Denver Doubletree just a bit after midnight.

Friday, June 26

What a beginning to the day! In a not terribly prosperous neighborhood, we walk into a church of great beauty, built by German immigrants--Annunciation Roman Catholic Church. The windows are thought to all be from Munich. As a fan of the Father Dowling Mysteries on TV, I was delighted to learn that this is the very church used in these wonderful programs! The irrepressible James Mosby Bratton gave us a fabulous musical start to our second last day. We had previously heard him on the Vocalion. Today, we took a great step up in the reed organ hierarchy, and heard his own 1887 instrument by Victor Mustel, of Paris. The sound, brilliant, somewhat steely, and perfectly adequate for the large-ish building we were in, is quite different from American harmonia some of us have known. It was placed down front, against the south wall. It would be somewhat underpowered for leading hearty hymn singing, but wonderful for lots of repertoire. Jim began with a really powerful and passionate performance of the Allegro assai from the Guilmant 4th Sonata. After being rewarded with thunderous applause, he gathered some friends around him--a 'cellist and a harpist--and they gave us a beautiful performance of the ravishing Nocturne in E flat, op. 21 for 'cello, harmonium and harp, by Marcel Fournier (1879-1951). Then, harmonium alone in Introduction and Fugue in D Minor, op. 62 by Franz Lachner (1803-1890), and last, with a pianist, Finale, op. 8, no. 6 (for harmonium, four hands) by Saint-Saëns, great fun, with a pianist who was able to balance well with the somewhat gentler harmonium. From the balcony, Robert Barney took over at the organ, leading us in singing Lobe' den Herren, aided by a trumpet player in a long introduction, in interludes, and in some verses of the hymn. The rest of the program: Karg-Elert, Lobe' den Herren, op. 65 (rather a perfect piece for demonstrating the virtues of the organ, beautifully and clearly played); Mozart, Andante, K. 616; Zeuner, Fugue No. 14 (just about as pallid as its name!); Schmidt, Prelude and Fugue in D. The organ is a 1910 Kilgen of 20 stops, much of which is really lovely and full, with only the full ensemble seeming a bit unblending.

I think I lack the Purvis gene. I have never appreciated the style and idiom of a lot of his music, although I did like some of the Christmas pieces that Kenneth Matthews played earlier in the week. I have mused about this a bit, particularly in regard to George Bozeman's program at the Chapel of Our Most Merciful Saviour, Episcopal. I have, in my wisdom, decided that you had to have been there, Grace Cathedral, San Francisco, that is--to have known the man, and heard the pieces in the context of a service, on that organ, and in that acoustic. He had to have been a remarkable person, as the people I know, and it is not a few, who had contact with him as students, choristers, or just listeners and friends, are immensely loyal to his music and his memory. Or maybe it is genetic after all. Some of the pieces in today's program required chimes, and George brought along his trusty synthesizer, which I heard and hated in Round Lake last summer, and did not grow to love any more today. (To think that I even helped him carry it upstairs at the beginning of the convention!) Having got all that out of my system, let me say that George played wonderfully well, as always, and I did really find lots to like in some of the pieces. The program: hymn, "Once to every man and nation" (Ton-Y-Botel or Ebenezer); Chorale Preludes on Tunes found in American Hymnals: Fantasy on Ton-y-Botel (dedicated to Ruth Barrett Arno), Pastorale on Forest Green (to George Henninger), Canzona on Liebster Jesu (to Frederic Freeman), Grand Choeur on Austria (to Porter Heaps), Contemplation on Tallis' Canon (to Alma Morse), Poeme Mystique on Manna Mercy (to Sally Harris), Toccata Festiva on In Babilone (to Clarence Snyder). The organ is by Farrand and Votey, Opus 88, 1890, of two manuals and 17-stops. Not possessed of great power, there are individual stops and combinations of beauty, and its decorated case pipes are wonderful to look at.

We next visited the Lotus in the Flame Temple, Denver Zen Center, a building which was formerly the Fourth Church of Christ Scientist. The members of the center were in a retreat when we arrived, one involving silence, so while we were able to talk, once in the church auditorium, and obviously make music, we were asked to enter the building in complete silence. Given our usually voluble nature, our success at this was all the more remarkable. The organ is a 1925 Austin, Opus 1233, of four manual divisions (Swell, Great, Choir, Echo and Pedal) over only 20 stops. Everything on the choir is from the Great, except a celesting rank. There is only one Pedal stop not borrowed. The highest pitched stop on the organ is one 2' on the Swell, and that is an extension, and is only a Flautino. Not an instrument of great brilliance or power! Thomas Brown, who played so wonderfully earlier in the week, gave us four completely brilliant improvisations on familiar hymn tunes: A sonata-allegro form on Salve festa dies; a Rondo (Scherzo) on Puer Nobis; Free form on Eventide; and Fugue and Finale on Salzburg.

Thomas Murray then stepped to the podium, to deliver a truly fascinating lecture entitled "Recording the Organ: The First Ten Years (1926-1936)." We heard 27 short examples recorded by all the great names in organ playing at the first part of this century, on a large number of significant pipe organs, recorded onto tape from Tom's extensive collection of 78s, accompanied with lots of interesting commentary and also some slides. With each example, we saw on the screen (a really nice touch) a slide of the actual record label--sometimes two labels, one for the original European or English release, and one for U.S. release. When possible, other slides were shown, perhaps the artist, or the building or organ. The organ was a "phonographic black sheep," because of its range, and powerful bass, but became less so with the advent of electric microphones in the mid-20s. The problem was getting such low frequencies on the grooves. Another problem for all music was the shortness of time available before a record had to be turned over--41/2 to 5 minutes on a 12-inch record, less on a 10-inch one. This was a fascinating history not only of developments in recording techniques in the 20s and 30s, but also of the organs and players of the time, and the music they chose to play.

Next, to Messiah Baptist Church, to hear Mary Gifford play the following program: hymn, "When the roll is called up yonder" (Roll Call) (We really shouted it out!); Roy Spaulding Stoughton (1884-1953), The Courts of Jamshyd, from Persian Suite; Edward d'Evry (1869-1950), Nocturnette; Gawthrop, Passacaglia, from Sketch Book 1 for Organ. The organ is a gutsy little thing, despite having only one 4' stop, the Orchestral Flute on the Swell. The scaling and voicing are such that there is real power and brightness, despite the way it looks on paper. Mary Gifford commented about the Open Diapason that "parts the Red Sea!" The organ is two manuals, with just eight stops, Kimball (1914). Rick Morel, who services and has built a number of organs in the area, got the roll player working for this organ, and we heard two rather fun organ rolls, provided by Jonathan Ambrosino.

Next, to All Saints Roman Catholic Church, a large, modern structure with a quite small Hook and Hastings, Opus 1702, 1896 way back in a very deep balcony. Lovely as it might be close up, sitting downstairs, it is insufficient for the singing of hymns--you simply cannot hear it. Nor did it have much oomph in the recital. Joseph Adam, organist of St. James Cathedral, Seattle, played the following program: Berlioz, Marche Hongroise (Damnation of Faust); Saint-Saëns, Improvisation in A Major; Vierne, Scherzo from Symphony No. 1; Herzogenberg, Orgel Fantasy on Nun danket, alle, Gott; hymn, "Now thank we all our God."

After a short break back at the hotel, on to Trinity United Methodist Church, where we were fed dinner, and then heard the splendid Peter Sykes. The organ is by Frank Roosevelt, No. 380, 1888, a wonderful and very large instrument of 65 stops, housed in a case that is a huge fantasy in beautiful wood, designed by George Ashdown Audsley! The Pastor of the church accepted an OHS Plaque from Mary Gifford, who announced that this was the church she attended as a child--so the presentation was particularly important to her. The program: Franck, Choral no. 1 in E Major; Whitlock, Three Extemporizations, Carol (Homage to Frederick Delius), Divertimento, Fidelis; Janacek, the organ solo from the Glagolitic Mass; Reger, Benedictus; Reubke, Sonata on the 94th Psalm; hymn, "God of Height and Depth and Sweep," to the fine tune "Shoemaker," composed by Peter Sykes. A recital by Peter Sykes is always a great event, and this was no exception. I think the most thrilling piece on the program for me was the Reubke Sonata--truly brilliant!

On our last day, we are on the busses, and heading up into the high mountains for a tour of Rocky Mountain National Park, having just heard the last two recitals of the convention, both played by David Macfarlane, of New York. The first was a somewhat bitter-sweet occasion, as the fine old building (the former Asbury Methodist Church) has been bought by a developer. Mike Rowe, convention chairman, says a great effort is being made to find a new home for this one of not-too-many remaining organs by Denver builder, Charles Anderson. This may not be an easy task, as the instrument is not small, and is divided in two cases on either side of a window. It's not fabulous, but is solid and good, if not overly colorful. It might also be one of those cases in which the owner would be just happy to find someone to take it out, without asking for money. David's program: hymn, "Father, we praise thee" (Christe Sanctorum); Saint-Saëns, Prelude & Fugue in G, op. 109, no. 3; Sweelinck, Variations: Balletto del Granduca; Vierne, Communion (Messe Basse) op. 30; Woodman, Noel Anglais; Mendelssohn, Allegretto and Finale from Sonata 4.

This program served to demonstrate all the possibilities of the instrument, built by Anderson in 1882, with two manuals and 16 stops. We next drove a short way to what is now a Roman Catholic home for the elderly, called The Gardens at St. Elizabeth's, with the lovely Chapel of Christ the King, built in 1903. The style is Christopher Wren, and the windows are by Clayton & Bell of London. The organ is one of the oldest extant Austins, Opus 92 from 1902/3. David's program was cleverly entitled and organized as "A Little Organ Mass," and was as follows: Introit, Frescobaldi, Toccata IX (2nd Book of Toccatas); Kyrie, de Grigny, Fugue à 5; Gloria, Bach, Allein Gott (BWV 663); Offertoire, Reger, Ave Maria (op. 80, no. 5); Elevation, Gaspard Corrette, Dialogue des Flutes (Missa Octavi Toni); Communion, Milhaud, Pastorale; Sortie, Langlais, Point d'Orgue; hymn, "From all who dwell below the skies" (Duke Street).

I think to do a program like this wants an organ of color, articulation, and variety, and also, perhaps, in a room which will give it space to expand. On a rather pallid instrument of 10 stops, with the highest pitch being four-foot flutes on both divisions, I don't think a program of such scope really works, being more "eye candy" than "ear candy." However, there were things to like, and many thanks to David for doing two recitals on two different organs back to back.

I wish I could "review" Rocky Mountain National Park for you, but mere words will not do. Go see it. Nor are mere words adequate to describe how wonderful was this convention. Like all OHS events, it was organized and run essentially flawlessly, by an army of totally devoted local volunteers, assisted and advised by the headquarters staff in Richmond. Great thought went into deciding what instruments, artists, and music would be heard, and how best to combine these elements. Great care and consideration was given to the comfort and convenience of several hundred attendees. I hope those of you who have made it to the end of this review will want to give serious thought to attending next year's convention, different in two ways from those in the past. Next summer, the convention will run from a Thursday through the following Wednesday. This requires only one Sunday off from playing in church, and includes an overnight Saturday, important to lower air fares. The second difference in this year's convention is the fact that it is outside of the U. S., in the magnificent cosmopolitan city of Montréal, with visits to many organs, old and newer in the region, and also to Ste. Hyacinthe, which may, in terms of numbers of builders, be the organ-building capital of the world! The dates: Thursday, August 19 through Wednesday, August 25th. The phone number in Richmond for joining OHS: 804/353-9226. I hope to see you there!

On Sabbatical with the Betenbaughs

Gordon and Barbara Betenbaugh

Gordon and Barbara Betenbaugh are organists/choirmasters at First Presbyterian Church in Lynchburg, Virginia. They also direct Cantate, the Children's Choir of Central Virginia, and Mrs. Betenbaugh is chapel organist and assistant choral director at Virginia Episcopal School in Lynchburg. Mr. Betenbaugh is Dean of the Lynchburg AGO chapter. In summer 2003 they completed a 13-week sabbatical in the UK, visiting Cambridge, Oxford, London, and Salisbury. See previous articles from their sabbatical: "London Chats #1: Michael McCarthy," October 2003, p. 18; "John Tavener's The Veil of the Temple," November 2003, p. 17; "Cambridge Chats #1: Timothy Byram-Wigfield," December 2003, pp. 16-19; "London Chats #2: Patrick Russill," February 2004, pp. 20-22; and "Cambridge Chats #2: Sarah MacDonald," August 2004, pp. 18-21.

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Our raison d'être normal'> for this sabbatical to England was to study the choir training
techniques and organs in cathedrals, parish churches and universities, and to
hear the music in the architectural and acoustical environment as envisioned by
many of the English composers. We spent four weeks in Cambridge, 10 days in
Oxford, and the balance of our time in London with a side trip to Salisbury. We
had contacted directors via e-mail a year before our departure, and everyone we
met was cordial and welcoming from our initial meeting in cyberspace through
our actual visit. One of the nicest amenities was having greater access than
the normal tourist to these wonderful venues.

During our time away, we kept a tally of the various
activities we attended and were surprised to discover how numerous and myriad
they were: 52 rehearsals, 36 Evensongs, 15 Eucharists, 5 Matins, 5 Evening
Prayer services, 4 Benedictions, 16 sermons, 2 memorial services and one
wedding, 16 organ recitals, 26 museums, 15 concerts, 3 theater performances, 4
interviews, 1 musical, 4 palace tours, 1 foundry tour, 1 opera, 1 mosque tour,
one botanical gardens visit, 5 movies, and last but not least, 3 choral music
premieres. Our time away was busy and intense! We returned home rejuvenated and
with a greater understanding of the English choral system in collegiate and
ecclesiastical foundations and also with memories of many new friends and
colleagues.

Thursday, May 8

We arrived in Cambridge right on time. Our B&B is
beautiful with cheerful yellow and greens. We have our own entrance and our own
patio with a lovely, lush garden. We walked into town to the visitor center to
get maps and an events calendar. Now we are set! Then we went to the public
library where Barbara gets her library card, a necessity! Over our three months
in England, Barbara makes friends with mystery writers of the British
persuasion. Then it was on to King's College Chapel for Evensong. Every
Thursday is sung Eucharist. We hear the Kodály Missa Brevis and
Messiaen's O Sacrum Convivium--what
a joy to be in this great space. It's where our hearts and souls belong.
We then head down the street to St. John's College for Evensong (Blow Mag
& Nunc in F, Gibbons
We Praise Thee, O Father
style='font-style:normal'>). There's great music making in this space.
After our long flight, what a way to end the day and start off our three months
away.

Friday, May 9

8:10-9:10 rehearsal at St. John's choir school
where the boys wear red blazers, red ties and gray pants. Christopher Robinson
rehearses the Weelkes Gloria in excelsis Deo, a psalm and the Hunt short
service. Christopher says the boys see a piece only once before performing it,
maybe twice. "Some of the quicker boys are better than the weaker
men." Peter Barley from St. Pat's Cathedral Dublin was also
visiting. Christopher asks for volunteers to sing the chant. Choristers are
very helpful to each other. In the traditional English manner, any chorister that
makes a mistake raises his hand (adults and boys). It's a very orderly
rehearsal. Choristers mark music and often mark a partner's music if he
makes a mistake. There was little warm up, most of the time was spent on music.
As the piano is played, the soprano line is never played, so the boys must be
independent. This technique is used by everyone in England.

After rehearsal we take a long stroll through the campus
from "the backs." We find the Internet Café and Great St.
Mary's, a church shared by the parish and the university. There are
organs front and back. The front chancel organ dates from 1869 with numerous
rebuilds, the last in 1974 by Johnson & Sons. This organ is owned by the
church. The rear balcony organ is a 3-manual Hill, Norman & Beard and is
owned by the university. Cromwell burned the Prayer Book here outside the
church, which is now advertising for an organist/choirmaster. We hear that 17
men have applied, but no women. At 1:15 there is a free recital at Clare
College, a Mozart Clarinet Quintet which
is superb! We have lunch at the Hogshead Pub. Steak and ale pie with chips and
mushy peas is a typical meal. On to St. Benet's for change ringing. Then
to St. Botolph's (patron saint of travelers), in use since 1320. On to
Pembroke College. The chapel at Pembroke is Wren's first work. It looks
better inside than out. The organ is a 1980 2-manual Mander. Anne Page teaches
organ here. Onward to see Little St. Mary's and Peterhouse College before
hurrying back for a 5:05 rehearsal at St. John's. We enter through the
back choir door thanks to Christopher so we don't have to queue like
regular visitors. Rehearsal and Evensong were great, wonderful music making.
The previously heard Weelkes took on a life of its own. Chats after Evensong
and then to the pub. Life doesn't get any better than this for two
Anglophiles. Finally we head to our B&B in time for Barb to read a bit and
Gordon to read the piles of materials gleaned through the day.

Saturday, May 10

Walked through the old cemetery looking at dates. St. Giles
is closed, so we visit The Round Church with its great history. We explore the
town today and return early to St. John's to listen to the organ scholar
practice for Evensong. The 6:30 Evensong is sung jointly by the college choir
and members of the City of Birmingham Choir. We hear the Finzi Mag, Holst Nunc,
Vaughan Williams Rise Heart, Thy Lord Is Risen normal'> and Antiphon. Christopher has directed the Birmingham Choir for 38
years (70-80 singers present). He is a stickler about the rhythm of
dotted notes. We had a choice of six concerts today. We heard the superb
Rodolfus Choir in an all-German program at Clare College. Singers are chosen
from past and present Eton Choral Choruses. There were 23 singers (7-5-5-6).

Sunday, May 11

It's Mother's Day! We go to St. John's
10:30 Eucharist and hear Palestrina's Ego sum
style='font-style:normal'> and Victoria's
O Quam gloriosum
style='font-style:normal'>. We have lunch at The Eagle, an authentic old pub
where many RAF and USAF soldiers spent their time during WWII. Their names are
signed on the ceiling in the bar. We then have a quick stroll through Jesus
College. We go back to Great St. Mary's and listen to a student practice
on the Johnson front organ as we rest our tired feet. At the 3:30 Evensong at
King's we hear the Stanford in G, Hadley
My Beloved Spake
style='font-style:normal'>, Vierne
Finale normal'>. At the end of the service the great West door is opened to the
"backs" for our exit. WOW! What a vista! We hear the tolling peals
at Great St. Mary's across the street, and Barb calls our children to
speak to them on Mother's Day. They can hear the bells across the
Atlantic through the red phone booth! On to St. John's for a 6:00 organ
recital by James O'Donnell of Westminster Abbey. He played the Bach
partita
Sei gegrüsset with
an unfortunate cypher which disappeared quickly. At the 6:30 Evensong we hear
the Parry in D (
The Great Service)
and Elgar's
Light of the World.
The choir is very musical and has the best tenors in Cambridge. They sing with
a full, robust sound.

Monday, May 12

We shop and buy some CDs. We walk through
"Christ's Pieces", a big green with an arbor in the middle
with a rose garden dedicated to the memory of Princess Diana. On to the chapel
of Emmanuel College, from which John Harvard (founder of Harvard University in
the U.S.) was a graduate. We find the University Arms Hotel where we stayed in
1993. On to Christ College with a lovely modern window that shows Christ on a
cloud over the college. There was a queue for King's Evensong even in the
rain. The King's Voices (mixed choir) sing the Fauré Cantique
de Jean Racine
, Noble B-minor Mag
& Nunc
and RVW O Taste and
See
. The mixed choir is just a good college
choir compared to the choir of boys and men. The sun just came out through the
west end windows and the birds are singing.

Tuesday, May 13

We step in Fitzwilliam College, built in the 1960s and very
modern. The chapel (1990) is in the round, and the inside is shaped to suggest
Noah's Ark. The beautiful grounds were full of blooming flowers in
yellow, purple, lavender, blue, white and pink, not to mention the roses, red
tips and rhododendrons. After a long walk to Churchill College the porter gave
us the key to the chapel that was at the far end of all the buildings on
campus. It was an unimpressive room but still had a small pipe organ. We saw
good music all around the console. A sign in the porter's lodge says: In
Cambridge "porter" means keeper of the gate, not carrier of the
baggage. On to Robinson College Chapel, which is rectangular and with very
straight lines. It had a two-manual 1981 Frobenius tracker with four general
pistons. A lot of organ lessons are taught here. On to the Cambridge University
Music School, the nice concert hall and the King's College School.

We had a late lunch in a pub and then on to Brian Jones
Music Shop where we dropped a few £s. It was still raining as we went off
to Clare College which has a 1971 two-manual Von Beckerath and an 18th-century
Snetzler used to accompany the choir in early repertoire. This superb mixed
choir sings three Choral Evensongs each week on Tuesday, Thursday and Sundays.
The choir tours are free to members of the choirs, and per diems and fees are
frequently paid to them. The psalms are sung without a conductor. A chorister
in the back row assists with coordination of the chant.

Sir David Willcocks was the guest conductor on this day. The
Clare conductor, Tim Brown, introduced Sir David to the choir. Later in a chat
he said that his young choristers probably had no idea what a great man was
conducting and what all Sir David had done for English music. As ever,
Willcocks was alert to tuning in this fine choir. It was good to chat with Sir
David after Evensong. Only 14 people were at Evensong, but no one is bothered
by the small attendance.

Wednesday, May 14

Got caught in rain and hail on the way to Magdalen College
(pronounced "maudlin"). The organ was built in 2000 by Goetze and
Gwynn and has 24 stops. The inspiration behind its design comes from Father
Smith's later instruments. The tuning is Kellner's reconstruction
of Bach's tuning from his Well-Tempered Clavier
style='font-style:normal'>. The chapel is smaller and more intimate than most
Cambridge chapels. Much of the Victorian stained glass still remains. Most of
the glass focuses on Mary Magdalen (usually with her emblem, a jar of precious
ointment) and the life of Christ. There is a slate tablet in the antechapel to
mark the centenary of the birth of C.S. Lewis (1898-1963).

We got caught in more hail on the way to the Fitzwilliam
Museum to see the Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Cyprus galleries. Some things were
four thousand years old. In the upper galleries we saw THE Fitzwilliam
Virginal Book
. The display was covered to
protect it from light. It contains 297 compositions by practically every
composer of the virginalist school. The manuscript is the best and most precise
we have ever seen. The museum building is amazing, polished marble with
figurines all around, a dome gilded roof and mosaic floor. We drop some more
£s at the gift shop.

Out in the rain again to Our Lady and the English Martyrs.
This is the biggest Roman Catholic church in town. The Abbott & Smith
romantic organ in the south transept has been renovated by Nicholson. We hope
to get to hear the instrument. Sarah MacDonald of Selwyn College recorded the
Howells Evening Canticles here, and the organ sounds wonderful on the CD. At
the end of a cold and wet day we find a Pizza Hut for some comfort food before
going back to Clare College for rehearsal and Evensong, and then to Trinity
College for a delightful chamber music concert with recorder, baroque
violoncello and 1972 David Rubio harpsichord. We get back to our B&B late
and tired but with a great feeling for what all we packed into one day.

Thursday May 15

Regular tourist stuff! Lunch at the Baron of Beef Pub
(Publick House) where George Guest used to slip over from St. John's for
a pint between rehearsals and Evensong. Got a haircut at a
"Gentleman's Barber," which turned out to a hair scalping. On
to Clare College for rehearsal. The superb choir is rehearsing an extremely
difficult piece in Hebrew by a Jewish student. They rehearsed the first
American piece that we have heard (Randall Stroope's How Can I Keep
from Singing
?) to be performed on Sunday
with the McMurry University Choir from Abilene. The last hymn was
Lord
of the Dance
, in a rather staid English
manner. Only 11 people were at Evensong. There were 15 last night. We exit by
the Fellows Garden on the backs--so beautiful! Back at our B&B we
finish our last cookies from a care package one of our favorite sopranos packed
for us for our trip. We update photos in our albums. We're doing this as
we go along, because putting together three months of photos upon our return
would be a daunting task.

Friday, May 16

It rains again all day and is chilly and breezy. The rain
doesn't bother the locals--they are always out and about. We see more
tourist sights in the morning, then drop some more £s for books and CDs
of Charles Wood's choral music. On to Sidney-Sussex College Chapel.
It's lovely with lots of carved wood. A 2-manual 1963 Harrison &
Harrison with 5 thumb pistons each to Gt and Sw, 5 toe pistons to Ped, 1 thumb
piston labeled Oboe 8'--no obligatory harmonic flute 8'.
Perhaps the Gt open flute will do the trick. The college doesn't have a
faculty organist but two organ scholars run the program. We saw yellow
"stickies" on the side jamb with circles drawn in them to resemble
draw knobs. One said "Preacher Trap Door." The two available
"buttons" read "open" and "closed." The
"closed" showed flames underneath. Another "button"
read "electrical shock for SATB." The organist here must have a fun
sense of humor.

Back to King's for Evensong rehearsal and a chat with
Stephen Cleobury. Rehearsal began
with Psalm 121 of Davies on the syllable YA, led by back row choristers on each
side. They point it differently from the way we do it. Stephen stands in the
middle with a special podium that has a mike built in so the organ scholars up
on the screen can hear his instructions. He speaks softly. All the choristers
are very focused. They sang the Wood Oculi omnium normal'>, Byrd First Service,
Rachmaninoff
Blagoslovén griadiy normal'>. We didn't know the Rachmaninoff, which is a benediction text,
lovely and lush. The boy choristers keep a finger on their line of music as
they sing. For Evensong, Stephen tells the vergers we are his guests and to let
us sit on the top row which is reserved for the fellows and members of the
college only. We have a chat with the two organ scholars in the loft after
Evensong. What a treat to see the big Harrison & Harrison
"accompanying machine" up close. A Bass Flute is in the stairwell,
and the 32' goes the length of the screen. It really purrs!

We finish our day at the Internet Café where we check
e-mail and write a recommendation for one of our choristers to attend the RSCM
School at Washington Cathedral.

Saturday May 17

At 8:00 a.m. we are sitting in the rehearsal room of the
King's College School. Photos of past choirmasters and LP covers from
past years (mostly Willcocks recordings) cover one whole wall. Since it's
Saturday the boys are dressed casually. They have a short warmup. Little piano
is used, and the melody is never played. An organ scholar goes behind the boys
to remind them to sit up straight. Stephen is a stickler for final
"D" consonant even in the midst of a phrase, also a stickler for
having the choristers watch him. These 18 choristers are very disciplined.

Off to Trinity College for a LONG re-creation (performance
reconstruction) of a Morning Prayer Service and sermon from the Chapel Royal of
Charles I from April 1629. Men were seated on one side, and women on the other
to make this event more authentic. There was 1 hour and 10 minutes of choral
matins before the sermon. The Trinity College Chapel was completed in 1566, and
the music for the service was chosen with the aim of reflecting the type of
music that may have been performed at court in 1629. As the premier musical
institution in Tudor-Stuart England, the Chapel Royal had brilliant organists
like William Byrd, Orlando Gibbons, and Thomas Tomkins. The music was performed
by the Junior and Senior organ scholars with a pick-up choir from Trinity,
King's, Gonville & Caius, Pembroke and Lucy Cavendish Colleges. The 1
hour 7 minute sermon, written by John Donne (Dean of St. Paul's, London)
was read by a fellow of Lincoln College, Oxford. Numerous people left during the
reading of the sermon, and afterwards one can imagine the range of comments
regarding its length. This made us appreciate our 15-20 minute sermons at
home! Most people headed for the pub after the service, but it remained the
topic of conversation around town for several days.

The day ended with rehearsal and Evensong at King's.
The Introit was This Joyful Eastertide
(Charles Wood), Howells' Mag & Nunc Gloucester Service and the Wesley
Blessed Be the God and Father.
Junior Organ Scholar Ashley Grote played an organ recital at 6:30 consisting of
Wild Bells (Michael Berkeley), Psalm
Prelude Set 1 No. 1
(Howells), Sonata
No. 1 in E-flat
(Bach), Chanson
de Matin
(Elgar) and Pomp and
Circumstance March No. 1
(Elgar). This was
the perfect end to a long day of great music making.

Sunday, May 18 (Easter IV)

The 10:30 Sung Eucharist at King's was the
Kodály Missa Brevis. The soprano
high C's were wonderful and just floated! This was our second time to
hear the Kodály at King's. We have not yet figured out their rotation
schedule. After lunch we visited Downing College which is much newer than most.
There were two nice harpsichords in the narthex and a small 1966 J.W. Walker
tracker. The music program is run by organ scholars. Katie Collinson is the
Senior. Our B&B hostess had insisted we frequent Fitzbillie's Bakery,
but unfortunately it was closed today--some other time!

On to Peterhouse College where the case and much of the
pipework date from Snetzler's organ of 1765, rebuilt by Mander in 1963.
Five pistons to Gt, Sw, Ch and Ped, no generals. Next to Queen's College
Chapel where the 3-manual organ has a red case by Bodley from 1892. In 1966
E.J. Johnson & Son overhauled the instrument. It has 4 thumb pistons to Gt
and Sw and 4 toe pistons each to Gt and Sw.

Next stop was St. Catherine's College Chapel where the
instrument, built by E.J. Johnson & Son in 1978, retained the double case
of Thomas Garner from 1894. The scheme of the present organ was drawn up by Dr.
Peter LeHuray, Fellow of the College. We were fortunate to hear Alexander
Finch, Director of Chapel Music, practicing for his 5:15 recital. The 3-manual
instrument was very impressive in the empty room. Messiaen came off very well.

After a stop at the Internet Café, on to King's
Evensong; we hear the Mag & Nunc Fifth Service by Tomkins and the Byrd Christ
Rising
again. We had a snack in the market,
and then on to St. John's for an organ recital before Evensong by Oliver
Lallemant, organ scholar at Trinity--all Bach:
Fantasy and Fugue
in G minor, Trio super Allein Gott and Fantasy
normal'>and Fugue in C minor. At
our second Evensong we heard the Daniel Purcell in E minor and the Byrd
Victimae
Paschali
. There is usually a sermon on
Sundays at Evensong, but mercifully it is short.

We found the Castle Mound on the way home; we will visit
another day. Our feet can't take any extra steps tonight. We arrived home
at last with lots of glorious music heard and architecture seen today.
We've lots to read and organize tonight.

Monday May 19

Went to the American Cemetery. It was very moving sitting in
the chapel, and we had not realized how many American soldiers are buried in
Cambridge. The visitor's center displayed two very moving poems, which we
were glad to have for our scrapbook. We took the bus tour around Cambridge and
saw three more colleges: St. Edmunds, Lucy Cavendish (for mature women) and
Darwin. Cambridge has 31 colleges and four theological colleges.

After a busy day of sightseeing we end the day at
King's Evensong sung by the King's Voices, a mixed choir. We heard
the RVW O Taste and See, the Mathias Mag
& Nunc Jesus College Service and the Hadley
My Beloved Spake
style='font-style:normal'>. We later learn that Tim Byram-Wigfield of Jesus
College was the organist for this service.

Tuesday, May 20

We visit the Cambridge Folk Museum and shop before going to
Jesus College Chapel to rehearsal. The chapel is very dark, has a small nave
and a big crossing that had two grand pianos, two harpsichords and two
portative organs as well as a set of tympani. There are two organs in the nave
on the north side. The ceiling was very colorful with coats of arms and
cherubs. Tim Byram-Wigfield is the organist. They begin each rehearsal with a
hymn and then the psalm on YA-YA. Tim pushes final consonants. The choristers
are very attentive. There were 10 girls and 11 men plus one of the two organ
scholars singing. The English tradition of raising a hand if you make a mistake
is continued here. Word stress is excellent. There were only eleven people at
Evensong, but we could also hear the birds singing outside along with the
choir.

Wednesday, May 21

We went to the Classical Archeology Museum this morning.
Everything here was a plaster cast copy of pieces in London, Rome, Athens,
Paris. On to Pembroke to try to contact Anne Page who teaches organ there. On
to Corpus Christi Chapel which was locked, but we could see through the glass
doors.

We FINALLY get sweets at the famous Fitzbillie's
Bakery and then went to the library to exchange books before going to Jesus
College for the boys' rehearsal.

Thursday, May 22

We do laundry and get organized in the morning, update all
our photos in the scrapbook, etc. We then pick up some music from Tim Brown at
Clare College. We spent the afternoon at the Arts Theater where we saw Mrs.
Warren's Profession
by George Bernard
Shaw. It starred Twiggy, the super-thin model from the'60s. Twiggy is no
longer a twig!

During Evensong at Jesus College we heard the Tallis O
Nata lux
, Gibbons short service and
Rutter's
Gaelic Blessing.
This is the first time we have heard Rutter's music in Cambridge.

Friday, May 23

Finally get to the top of Castle Mound for a photo op, the
mound being all that is left of the medieval fortification. Then we go to
Kettle's Yard Art Museum and Concert Venue which is next door to St.
Peter's 11th-century delightful tiny church. Part of the museum at
Kettle's Yard is the home of Jim Ede. He donated his house and art
collection to Cambridge. It was fascinating seeing art, china, rocks, all
together and abiding peacefully just as it was when Mr. Ede lived there. We then
went to the modern gallery where there were pen and ink drawings and some
modern paintings of graffitied walls and trash in the streets.

Lunch was back at the Baron of Beef pub and then we sat in
the yard of the Round Church and watched the world go by before our delightful
interview with Tim Byram-Wigfield at Jesus College (see The Diapason
style='font-style:normal'>, December 2003 issue). Following the interview we
went to the mixed choir rehearsal and heard
Set Me as a Seal
style='font-style:normal'> (Walton),
Ascendit Deus,
style='font-style:normal'>and
O Pray for the Peace of Jerusalem
style='font-style:normal'> (Howells). The choristers are very focused. Tim
asked them to "lay the consonants on top of the vowels."

Saturday, May 24

We attended a light-hearted concert at Clare Chapel given by
The Duke's Men of Yale, 10 singers in close harmony, most of the pieces fast
and fun. Clare's men's ensemble of five also sang, and they were
even better. Back to Jesus College for rehearsal. Tim vocalized for a while.
The Psalm was rehearsed on NAH by the 13 boys. King's, St. John's
and Jesus College are the only three boys choirs in Cambridge. The Jesus boys
are volunteer choristers and are not in the same league with the other two, but
they are very good and sing a lot of rep for not having a rehearsal every day.

Sunday, May 25 (Rogation Sunday)

Went to sung Eucharist at King's (Lassus Missa
"Bell" amfitrit' altera) with sermon. At King's 3:30
Evensong we hear the Stanford Mag & Nunc in B-flat and Lord, Thou Hast
Been Our Refuge
(Ives). King's always
has a large congregation at Evensong.

On to Evensong rehearsal at Trinity: Bach Nun komm, der
heiden Heiland and Fantasy
and
Fugue in C minor
, our first time to hear
the Mag & Nunc sung to Anglican chant. We also hear Arvo Pärt's
I
Am the True Vine
.

The 1975
Metzler is, of course, on the screen within the restored 1708 Bernard Smith
main case and the Chair case is even earlier. The Hauptwerk Principal 16',
8', 4', 22?3', Rückpositive 8' Principal,
and Pedal 16' Principal are from the Smith organ. The old 1913 Harrison
was used in the King's College recording of Anglican Chant Volume I with
David Willcocks playing and conducting (one of our favorite recordings). The
keyboards of the old Harrison are at the top of the stairs up to the organ. We
noticed two choir pistons engraved Clarinet and Harmonic Flute, a must for any
English organist to interpret the choral literature. The Metzler is an
outstanding instrument with a large Sw and no pistons. Director Richard Marlow
isn't here tonight, and the two organ scholars do a fine job of
rehearsing. Trinity is the silver slipper of the Cambridge colleges, the
college of RVW and Stanford with lovely windows showing George Herbert, Bacon,
Elizabeth I, Wycliffe, Tyndale. There are also many statues in the antechapel.
The mixed choir of 25 rehearsed the Stanford Coelos ascensit hodie
style='font-style:normal'> for Ascension Day next Thursday (this is our
choir's favorite Ascension Day anthem--and it was nice to hear it in
the room for which it was written). The center aisle is wider than at most
colleges, thus more separation in the two choirs. The psalms were rehearsed on "la"
or "li-la."

We left Trinity after rehearsal to attend Evensong at
Gonville & Caius (pronounced "keys") to hear the Britten
Rejoice in the Lamb, which was excellent. There was only a four-minute sermon,
hurrah! The 37-stop organ is a 1981 Klais of Bonn, Germany with a large Sw and
8 general pistons. Gonville & Caius is where Charles Wood presided. Dr.
Geoffrey Webber has recorded two volumes of Wood's anthems and organ
music.

Monday, May 26

It is a gorgeous day--sunny and not too cool or hot. We
had been waiting for this kind of weather for our next out of town trip, so we
took the bus to Anglesy Abbey. It never was an abbey, but it was a priory until
Henry VIII closed them all. The house is fabulous! The guidebook was very
helpful, and we read it thoroughly in every room. What a collection of
furniture, art, animals, birds, images of Windsor Castle, books, walking
sticks, silver and a large Steinway. There were huge beautiful gardens with
flowers and a water wheel. It was a wonderful day to relax in leisure in a
beautiful spot.

Tuesday, May 27

Another beautiful day. We visit the library to return and
check out books. We then met Richard Marlow at Trinity College for choir
rehearsal. Four of his choristers have perfect pitch. About one third of the 60
music majors have perfect pitch. We hear the Reger Benedictus and Introduction
and Passacaglia in D. The choir sings Ergebung normal'> (Wolf), O Tod, wie bitten bist du normal'> (Reger) and the Stanford Mag & Nunc in G (another of our
choir's favorites). Also hear the Davies
God Be in My Head
style='font-style:normal'>. This is another excellent choir! Richard Marlow
wrote the Psalm Chant, which was a bit dissonant with close harmony. Trinity is
the only place that sings Anglican chant a cappella. Richard's wife,
Annette, brought music for us and sat with us at Evensong. Afterwards we were
invited for "a sherry" and to see Richard's rooms and then
into a private gated garden off the oldest part of the college. It extends back
to the River Cam very near St. John's College from which one can see the
Bridge of Sighs. We had a delightful evening talking shop. Trinity is the
school of T. A. Walmisley, Charles Stanford (organist 1874-93) and Ralph
Vaughan Williams. The list of "Trinity Men" is staggering with the
royal family, poets, prime ministers and other noted people, men of science and
mathematics, classical scholars, philosophers, historians, judges and lawyers,
Ecclesiastics, Divines and other writers.

Wednesday, May 28

We visit the zoology museum. We learned about Voluta musica,
one of the family of vo

Carillon News

by Brian Swager
Default

Travelogue III

This is the third and final installment of my travel journal with candid reflections on a 10-week carillon and organ recital tour through Europe.

Last month's journal left off on a Saturday afternoon following my recital in Almere-Haven, near Amsterdam. From there I make my way back to my pied-a-terre in Mechelen. On Sunday morning the entire family assembles for breakfast and the family portrait. On my first visit to Belgium I started the tradition of making a photo of the family gathered around the display case in the bell shop. Now they want me to dig out all the photos and frame the series. The boys, age 8 & 10 in the first photo, now both have partners and are roughly the same age that I was when I first set foot in Belgium. After the photo, the two young couples and I drive to Brussels. It is the final day of the bloementapijt, a "carpet of flowers" that covers the huge market square. We have a bite to eat, and I catch a train to Ieper in West Flanders.

The Hallentoren--the belfry--is part of the Cloth Hall which was destroyed in World War I and rebuilt in the original style. Inside the Cloth Hall, the In Flanders Fields Museum is an impressive interactive museum devoted to The Great War 1914-1918. The recital is at 4:00 pm on what feels like the hottest, most humid day of the summer. The carillon is heavy; the action is cumbersome; the console is that detestable old Denyn standard for short people. I hope that someone is enjoying this music in spite of my suffering. Fortunately, I am alone in the bell chamber. Except for shoes and socks on my feet, and bandages and leather protectors on my pinkies, I play buck naked, leaving huge puddles of perspiration on the bench and floor. As much as I'd like some air circulation, the sound in the glass-enclosed playing cabin is excruciatingly loud with the door open, so to avoid going deaf, I keep the door closed. Between each number I go out into the bell chamber to cool off a bit in the breeze and to drink some water. Afterwards, I dry off, cool off, don my dry clothes and go downstairs to discover that Charles Wilson, a retired major general from the US Air Force, was in the audience with his lovely Belgian wife, and they were waiting to greet me. Together with Geert, the municipal carillonneur, we all go to an outdoor café for drinks and lively conversation, eventually ordering dinner. Suddenly a fierce wind comes out of nowhere and showers us with rain. So much for dry clothes.

Geert drives me to nearby Kortrijk where I stay for three nights in a bed and breakfast in the restored Begijnhof. Begijnhofs--or béguinages--were self-contained lay sisterhoods devoting themselves largely to charitable work. It is virtually only in Flemish Belgium that begijnhofs survive today, although most are no longer inhabited by religious communities.

On Monday evening I play at the St. Maartens Church in Kortrijk on another of the dreaded Denyn playing consoles. The carillonneur warns me in advance of the atrocious tuning of the bells, but I am still shocked when I play, constantly glancing in a panic at my feet to ascertain that I really am playing the right pedal keys. I find it a fascinating historical phenomenon that it is just this sort of carillon that once made Flanders famous for its singing towers--then quite a marvel. But now, these instruments make some of the Flemings somewhat infamous for their reluctance to move forward with the times now that the art of tuning bells and building quiet, responsive, ergonomically de-signed playing consoles and action nearly has been perfected. In fact, I was astonished to hear one prominent carillonneur from West Flanders proclaim, with reference to another old carillon with abominable action, console, and tuning, that he really liked playing that instrument. Fortunately, the younger generations studying at the Belgian Carillon School in Mechelen are being instilled with a more musically responsible aesthetic. Back to Kortrijk. The large audience is appreciative nonetheless: they hear the music despite the tuning and timbre, and forgive the inadequacies of the instrument if they are aware of them.

Tuesday's recital is in nearby Menen, still in the province of West Flanders, right on the border with France. Most of the bells are modern, relatively speaking (only 40 years old), and the playing console is brand new, so playing is not such a chore, and the musical experience is more fulfilling.

Wednesday morning I board a train back to the south of France. This summer's schedule has made me zigzag across Europe more than usual, but I take advantage of the time on the train to read. Since one of my minors during my doctorate at Indiana University was French literature, I'm always delighted when I find time to read another novel. I've also been fascinated by comparing the styles of French, Dutch, German, and Belgian newspapers. They view the world from a different perspective than the American press.

My host Elizabeth picks me up at the train station in Perpignan and informs me that we are invited to a paella dinner party at a friend's home in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Remembering the disastrous paella in Barcelona, my stomach started churning immediately, but as luck would have it, this was the best paella I've ever eaten, complemented by several delicious wines and cheeses.

On Thursday morning after coffee, croissants, and pain au chocolat, we head for the cathedral Saint-Jean-Baptiste so that I can practice on the carillon. It is another oddball instrument. The bells were made by the19th-century French foundry Bollée. The compass is a standard four octaves with a few exceptions. Although it is not unusual to leave C-sharp out of the lowest octave, the G-sharp is also missing in this instrument, which is most annoying. Also, in that Bollée and Perpignan are so far from Flanders and The Netherlands, the real cradle of the carillon art, the playing console has a most unusual design: the pedalboard is only one octave and is displaced quite a ways to the left, creating a challenge especially when playing pedal notes along with the top octave of manual keys. Then there is the highest "A" which I discover is not an "A" at all, so I must remember always to play something else in its place. Adaptation is the name of the game here. Fortunately I brought a copy of the version in C of Courter's In memoriam which, with some adaptation, is playable here.

Laurent and Louis, the other two Perpignan carillonneurs, come to meet me, and they treat me to a lovely dinner at the restaurant terrace under the tower, actually the parvis of the cathedral. After a brief siesta at home, we head back to the cathedral where they've arranged for me to have a few hours to play the four-manual Cavaillé-Coll organ. They had to drag me away in time to get upstairs for the carillon recital. Now, Louis is in the tower communicating via walkie-talkie with Laurent on the ground who is giving verbal program notes to the large audience. Despite the challenges of the instrument, I manage to produce an exciting and musical program, and they are happy that I've come to end their summer series "with a bang."

In the morning Laurent offers me his computer and Internet connection long enough for me to type up my travelogue #2 for The Diapason and send it to Jerome. Laurent, Elizabeth, her children and I have lunch, and I catch my train to nearby Agde. Now I have vacation at a naturist resort on a beach on the Mediterranean. The week goes by much too quickly, and I wish I had planned for two weeks here, but alas, there are more bells to ring. The train takes me to the other end of France: the Alps between the Mont Blanc and Geneva.

Taninges is a small village of about 4000 inhabitants where there is great enthusiasm for their two-and-one-half octave carillon. Shortly after arrival we head to the home of one of the local carillonneurs for a dinner party. Monique, being of Swiss origin, prepares a delicious cheese fondue. She remembers that two years ago at a reception in Taninges I was so taken by one of their dishes that I demanded the recipe on the spot. So, after some champagne, she invited me into the kitchen to share her ingredients and techniques with me.

In the morning I practice on the carillon--another "exceptional" instrument. Here again there is only one octave of pedals, but the range is from B to B instead of C to C. I am perplexed. Why would anyone do this? But I've learned that when I'm in France and start taking these things too seriously, it's time to dine with a good glass of wine, and so we did. Then we went up into the mountains for a hike. We passed a bunch of cows wearing large bells around their necks. I called them the mobile carillon of the Haute-Savoie. After a short siesta at home, we head for a community hall under the tower where the members of the carillon committee meet for a meal. Their practice console is here in the hall, so I review a few of my "adaptations" before we eat.

Another unique facet of the tower in Taninges is the seating area with bleachers inside the tower. It is rare that so many people can come inside and watch the carillonneur play. It is a very intimate setting, and the audience was most appreciative that I gave commentary on the program between each of the pieces. A champagne reception followed the recital. In the morning there was time for a trip to the boulangerie and a walk in the botanical garden in Samoëns before catching my train in Cluses.

Back at home in Mechelen, I spend Monday morning helping Luc to prepare the cellar for the evening reception. Their home dates from the 17th century and is a registered historical landmark. In return for the government subsidies that they received to help defray the costs of restoration, they open the home to the public in some way on special occasions. This evening, the cellar with its low vaulted ceiling will be the site for a candlelight reception following the carillon recital in the St. Rombouts Tower, presented in the framework of the Festival of Flanders.

In the afternoon I head for Zaventem to greet my friend John who arrives from San Francisco to travel along for my final two weeks. We spend the rest of the week sightseeing in Belgium and Amsterdam, with a visit to Haarlem on Thursday afternoon for Jos van der Kooy's recital at the St. Bavo Church.

My final two of the summer's 28 recitals are on Sunday in Wavre, Belgium, where there is a two-day Carillon Festival as part of Open Monument Day in Belgium. My host forgot to pick us up at the train station in Ottignies, so by the time we figure this out, wait for the next train to Wavre, and walk to the church, all of my time for practicing on the organ is gone, and I must go directly to the carillon and begin the recital. On the way, I run into Major Wilson and his wife who I had met in Ieper.  A torrential rainstorm lets loose about 40 minutes into the program, and the chief insists that I stop playing and go to the organ. I suggest lunch, as I am famished and feeling faint by this time. Then I am informed that they have changed the original schedule and have sent the audience into the church to stay dry and to hear my organ recital--so I must sit down and play with no preparation. The two-octave pedalboard (completely chromatic, thank goodness, but I could use a few more notes) has no independent stops; it pulls down the great keys. So, if you want the 16-foot stop to sound in the pedal, you have it on the great as well. Some ranks were discant-only stops or were divided into separate discant and bass registers. Some but not all of this was evident from looking at the stop knobs. The first thing I did wrong was to begin the recital on the wrong manual, but since I had drawn no stops on that manual, and since there were no pedal notes involved, no one knew except my page turner. The recital went surprisingly well, as I had no time at all to get nervous or to think about anything besides making music out of this mess. Major Wilson, by the way, later accused me of shaking up the heavens and causing a deluge every time I play the carillon. I suggested that if the carillons in Belgium were all in tune, the heavens might be less troubled, and the sun would shine there more often.

On Monday the Thalys whisks us to Paris for a delightful vacation until Friday when we fly to Southampton and sail to New York on the Queen Elizabeth 2. The End.

A conversation with Morgan and Mary Simmons

by Roy F. Kehl

Roy Kehl has resided in Evanston, Illinois, since 1969. He is a past member of the Bishop’s Advisory Commission on Church Music of the Episcopal Diocese of Chicago. From 1981–1985 he served on the Standing Commission on Church Music of the Episcopal Church which compiled The Hymnal 1982. In that capacity he chaired a sub-committee on plainsong hymnody and consulted with Morgan Simmons in course of that work.

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On March 24, 1996, Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago celebrated the music ministry of Morgan and Mary Simmons, who retired after 28 years as organist and choirmaster and associate organist, respectively. The festivities included several motets sung by the Fourth Church Morning Choir and alumni of that choir, vigorous hymn singing accompanied by Morgan, organ works played by Mary, Roy Kehl, Richard Enright, and Margaret Kemper, and tributes by choir members, Richard Proulx, and the Rev. Dr. John M. Buchanan, senior pastor of the church, followed by a gala reception in Anderson Hall.

Both Morgan and Mary Simmons are graduates of the School of Sacred Music at Union Theological Seminary, and have long been active in the AGO and the Hymn Society. During the Simmons' tenure, a number of innovations have taken place. Among them is the annual Festival of the Arts, which has featured such artists as Robert Shaw, Dave Brubeck, Paul Winter and Maya Angelou. Since the installation of the 125-rank Aeolian/Skinner organ in 1971, there has been an annual series of organ recitals performed by an international roster of musicians. The church has commissioned a number of anthems, several of which are included in the Fourth Church Anthem Series, published by Hope Publishing Company. Several recordings of the Morning Choir have also been released.  A recent major building campaign has included structural and acoustical renovations, as well as enhancement of the Aeolian/Skinner organ by Goulding & Wood.

This conversation took place on April 22 and 29 at the Simmons' home in Evanston, Illinois, shortly before they left on a trip to England.

Roy Kehl: Mary and Morgan, can you tell our readers something of your backgrounds, where you were born and raised, went to school, how you met, and how you came to Chicago?

Mary L. Simmons: Although I was born in Centralia, Illinois, I spent my growing up years in Carbondale where I was very fortunate to have a wonderful piano teacher  (Juilliard graduate) from the time I was five until I finished high school. At age twelve I began organ lessons with our church organist, but continued piano as my first instrument at the University of Illinois for my first two years when I switched to organ as a major. My teacher there was Paul Pettinga. In September of 1951 I enrolled in the master's program in sacred music at Union Theological Seminary in New York where I was a student of Hugh Porter and studied composition with Normand Lockwood. It was at Union where Morgan and I met and where we were married on May 17, 1953--two days before we received our degrees.

Our years at Union were very special times for us not only because of our developing relationship but also because of the lively stimulation that prevailed at the seminary and the city of New York. Clarence and Helen Dickinson were very much a part of the school's life as were Ethel Porter, Charlotte Garden, Harold Friedell, Madeline Marshall, Peter Wilhousky, Vernon deTar, and Robert Baker, to say nothing of the theological giants such as Reinhold Niebuhr and Paul Tillich. The friendships which we made in those years with fellow students remain to this day.

Morgan F. Simmons: Andalusia, Alabama, is my home town. Although I was enthusiastic about music from an early age and had a reasonably good piano teacher from the time I was seven or eight, my music study was not very solid until my last three years of high school. During World War II my father was stationed at Fort Bragg, North Carolina, where I had the good fortune of coming under the guidance of Union Seminary graduate Lee Sistare who put me on the right path to serious organ study. Simultaneously, I studied piano with a very fine teacher in Fayetteville.  During my senior year in high school we had moved back to Andalusia, and I made a twice monthly trip to Montgomery (85 miles away) to study organ with another Union graduate and a master piano teacher with an engaging southern name, Lily Byron Gill, who had been a student of Moszkowski and Ernest Hutcheson.

My undergraduate work was at DePauw University where I studied with Berniece Mozingo and Van Denman Thompson, the latter, one of the most gifted musicians that I have ever known. (He had completed a bachelor's degree at New England Conservatory in one year, done post graduate study at Harvard and was teaching at the college level by the age of 20.) I, too, entered Union Seminary in the fall of 1951, and, like Mary, I studied with Hugh Porter.  Following commencement and after two years in the army, I was awarded a Fulbright Scholarship for study at the Royal School of Church Music in Croydon, England, where we spent a year.  Returning to the states I began a doctoral program at Union while serving as minister of music at the Bound Brook Presbyterian Church in Bound Brook, New Jersey, where we had a comprehensive program with six choirs. In 1961 I completed the doctorate in sacred music at Union with emphasis on hymnology, and in January of 1963 I accepted a joint appointment as minister of music at the First Methodist Church of Evanston, Illinois, and as assistant professor of church music at Garrett Theological Seminary. I continued at First Methodist until the summer of 1968 and maintained my relationship at Garrett until 1977.

On September 15, 1968 we began our work at Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago--I as organist and choirmaster and Mary as associate organist (although she was not officially listed as such in the early days).

RK: What did you find when you arrived at Fourth Church in 1968? What was the program like at that time?

MFS:  We found a church with a long and impressive history of church music.  Eric DeLamarter had been the director of music from the time of the completion of the present church and its E. M. Skinner organ in 1914 until his retirement in 1935. His distinguished associates included Leo Sowerby, Palmer Christian, Walter Blodgett and Barrett Spach, who succeeded him, remaining at the church until his retirement in 1959 (with a one year's absence from the position). The organ was in a sad state with 240 dead notes and a lot of blanketing in the chamber to use in case of ciphers.  Plans were already under way for a new instrument at the time I was hired.

There were two choirs: the Morning Choir with 34 paid singers and the Evening Choir which had about 30 volunteers. The professional choir left a great deal to be desired since there were a number of singers who really should not have been there, and it took several years to build an ensemble that came close to my ideal of what a really good choral group should sound like. I discovered early on that it takes much more than finances to foster a truly effective musical program. The volunteer choir drew on the large singles' groups which were a hallmark of the church at the time, and there was a good pool of talent from which to draw.

The Morning Choir provided music for eleven o'clock worship and the Evening Choir sang for the 6:30 vesper service. The two choirs combined for a Christmas pageant and for the Spring Choral Festival which was held in May.  In addition the Morning Choir did a Fall Choral Service and a major work on Good Friday Evening. This schedule of special services had dated from the tenure of Barrett Spach, and I did not change it appreciably.

RK: What changes have taken place in the music program at Fourth Church during your tenure?

MFS: After our first Christmas we abandoned the rather old fashioned Christmas pageant and began the tradition of Nine Lessons and Carols, and we soon began an 11:00 p.m. Christmas Eve service which we named A Festival of Banners and Light, which necessitated the fabricating of banners to fill the very large space. Over the years we have been through three sets of banners and the service has grown in popularity so that there is now standing-room-only .

In 1988 a second morning worship service meeting at 8:30 a.m. was added to the existing 11:00 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. services. Vocal music for that service was provided by an octet from the Morning Choir, including one of the soloists. An assistant organist was subsequently added to the staff to direct the Evening Choir and play for the vesper service.

For most of the choral programs we used instrumental accompaniment more than had been done by our predecessors and performed a wider variety of music.  Some of the works performed included:

To St. Cecelia (Dello Joio), Missa Brevis (Kodály), Requiem (Fauré), St. John Passion (Bach), The Great Organ Mass, The Creation, and Stabat Mater (Haydn), Requiem (Brahms), Mass (Stravinsky), Mass in E Minor (Bruckner), Requiem, Grand Mass in C Minor, and Vesperae de Domenica (Mozart), Requiem (Duruflé), Israel in Egypt and Messiah (Handel) as well as lesser known works by contemporary composers.

After the organ was rebuilt and expanded in 1971 we began a series of organ recitals: four evening recitals by outstanding guest performers as well as noonday recitals on the Fridays of October, Lent and June by organists in the Chicago area--many of whom are of stellar caliber.

RK: Share with our readers the way in which you and Mary have shared the leadership of the music ministry.

MFS: Although Mary was not officially designated as my assistant or associate when we first went to the church, she functioned as such, and without her special talents the program could never have gotten off the ground. As I stated to the congregation on our final Sunday, March 3: "Mary has been my ears, my fingers, my best critic and my best friend." Her gifted ear and fine keyboard skills far surpass mine, and she graciously used those skills in a very unassuming manner to undergird the music making that took place at the church. She is a superb accompanist and acted in that capacity at choir rehearsals, morning worship and concerts. Because of her abilities we were able to perform music that I could never have programmed otherwise. We complemented each other's talents; she lent her ear for pitch and intonation to my ear for color, balance and interpretation. She offered steadiness to my exuberance. I did most of the planning and selection of the repertory as well as the registrations for the accompaniments, and she did the execution. In addition she is the organizer of the pair and managed the large and developing music library.

During our early years at the church she had the responsibility of our three children. Later she was employed for eighteen years as a full-time executive with one of the national boards of The United Methodist Church which required a lot of travel and energy. Fortunately, she had flex time and was able to be at the church by noon on most Thursdays for preparation for choir rehearsals. During my first nine years at the church, I still had responsibilities at Garrett-Evangelical Theological Seminary in Evanston and did occasional teaching in hymnology at Northwestern University's School of Music. That meant that there were many seven-day weeks.

RK: What were some of the challenges you faced at Fourth Church?

MFS: There were and have been few major challenges to the music program of the church. We enjoyed unparalleled support from the clergy and the congregation and were free to express ourselves almost without restraint. For many years there was no music committee as such, and the level of trust that was placed in our judgment was amazing. I did my best never to betray that trust.

One problem which the church in general has faced through the years is the matter of image. Many people have a distorted view of Fourth Church--that it is an elitist institution which caters to the very wealthy and that its financial resources are unlimited. At one time there were rumors that my salary was $100,000 a year, that the pastor had a chauffered limousine, a yacht and a bevy of servants. Actually, the church ministers to a wide variety of people from all economic strata, and its per capita giving has lagged behind the national average for many years. Its location on North Michigan Avenue in a space referred to as "the magnificent mile" and the very handsome Gothic architecture which was made possible by some of Chicago's past wealth reinforces the false image.  During a large part of my tenure, I handled the church's publications and publicity, and I constantly battled to correct the image and to get the message across that this is an all-inclusive community of faith which is open to all.

RK: What are some of the high points of your ministry at Fourth Church?

MFS: That is something of a difficult question to answer because there was a steadiness to the life of the church.  Fourth Church is atypical; we never went through the slump that so many churches experienced during the late sixties and seventies. In fact the membership of the church grew during every year that we were privileged to be a part of its ministry, and when we left we were at an all-time high membership--almost 4100. But there were some peaks along the way: the establishment of the Annual Festival of the Arts in the fall of the year which exposes the church and the participating artists to the important intersection between the arts and religion, the installation of the Aeolian/Skinner organ in 1971 and finally the enhancement of that instrument and the improvement of the acoustics which were completed in 1995. The close relationships which we have had with members of the choir were heightened by three European tours: Germany and Austria in 1987, England in 1990 and Italy in 1994. Singing in the Dom in Salzburg, conducting the choir in Bruckner's Virga Jesse at St. Florian Abbey where the great Austrian composer is buried, and conducting and playing for evensong at Bath Abbey are a few of the highlights of those overseas trips which we will always cherish.

RK: Tell us something about the history of the organs at Fourth Church and the recent renovations that you have referred to.

MFS: I've already mentioned the condition of the E. M. Skinner organ that existed when we went there in 1968.  This had been a landmark instrument when it was installed in 1914 and contained 59 ranks, among them the very first Kleiner Erzähler and Celeste which Skinner built. In the church archives is a letter from him describing the stop and its derivation. He said, "The result is a most beautiful combination, the most beautiful soft effect I ever heard." In 1946-47 the Aeolian/Skinner Company made several changes to the organ, including the addition of a mixture to the Great, a replacement of the mixture in the Swell, the addition of two mutations to the Choir and a Pedal unit (16, 8 and 4). Barrett Spach was very unhappy with the results and never forgave G. Donald Harrison for altering the essential character of the original instrument.

Soon after I went to the church we engaged Robert S. Baker, then Dean of the School of Sacred Music at Union Theological Seminary, as consultant for an extensive rebuild and enlargement of the organ. He, along with Donald Gillett, president of the Aeolian/Skinner Company, and I drew up the specifications for the instrument that was expanded to 125 ranks. All of the mechanical parts of the organ and the solid state console were new, but certain ranks from the original organ and the rebuild of the 40s were incorporated.  Because we were under the restrictions to make no physical changes to the building, it was necessary to confine the pipework to the original chambers: the very deep (25 feet square) chamber to the left of the chancel and the old echo chamber at the east end  peak of the nave. In the new scheme the Swell organ was buried at the back of the chamber and spoke directly into the large pedal prinzipal pipes. Also most of the organ was on low wind pressure. These factors along with the poor acoustics of the church made for a less than satisfactory installation. When people heard that there were 125 ranks, they would ask, "Is that all there is?" after hearing full organ.  Another common remark about the musical performances was, "It's too bad that the building doesn't sound the way it looks."

When the church projected a major renovation and restoration of the facilities, I began to address the matter of the organ which was a "diamond in the rough" and also the problem of three inches of horsehair felt on the ceiling of the nave. In 1989 we began conversations with Thomas Wood, president of Goulding & Wood of Indianapolis, to determine how some of the problems of egress and enhancement might be accomplished. We also worked with Kirkegaard and Associates related to the acoustics and secured the advice of Jack Bethards of the Schoenstein Company and the church's curator of the organ, Kurt Roderer. It was determined to relocate three divisions : the Swell, the Positiv and part of the Pedal. It was also decided to raise the wind pressures on the Swell, the Positiv and the Antiphonal divisions. A new 32' pedal reed was added as was a new prinzipal for the case of the Positiv which now speaks directly into the nave by way of the south balcony. A subbass of larger scale was added to the Pedal, bringing the total number of ranks to 126. A large part of the organ was revoiced and everything was regulated and finished to complement the new acoustic. The results are dramatic and have fulfilled my dream of leaving the church in a much better state than I had found it in 1968.

RK:  Could you tell us more about the acoustical and architectural renovations?

MFS:  As part of the restoration of the sanctuary of the church, which included extensive cleaning of the stone, refinishing of the pews and all other woodwork, repairing the stained glass and updating the antiquated lighting, it was happily decided to improve the acoustics which had been hampered from the beginning by the application of three inches of horsehair felt to cut down on the reverberation of the spoken word at a time when sound enhancement systems did not exist. The felt was removed and insulation was installed, covered by sheet rock and then hard wooden panels which were decorated to match the handsome polychrome beams.  Although there is not a long reverberation as a result of this work, there is far more warmth and clarity of sound so that the organ, the choir and the congregational singing are all wonderfully improved.

Another aspect of the renovation included the relocation of the Blair Chapel where there was a two-manual Austin organ which had been greatly enhanced in recent years by Brantley Duddy of Pennsylvania. The new chapel balcony will not accommodate the large  Austin chests and so the pipework, much of which is new and viable, has been put in storage in the hope that some of it can be incorporated in a mechanical action organ for the new space. 

The building is now almost totally handicapped-accessible with the addition of two elevators, a wonderful ramped loggia which is ideal for art exhibits, and expanded areas for day care, our very large tutoring program, the day and church schools and expanded administrative facilities. The former chapel space has been converted into a great hall which is widely used for after-church coffee hours, forums and large dinners.

RK: You have spoken earlier about the organ recital programs. Who are some of the artists that have been included?

MFS: Robert Baker gave the dedicatory program for the rebuilt Aeolian/Skinner in 1971, and Marilyn Keiser played the rededication recital in February of 1995. Among the other players have been William Albright, Arthur Carkeek, Robert Clark, Douglas Cleveland, David Craighead, Richard Enright, Michael Farris, Grigg Fountain, Robert Glasgow, Ronald Gould, Gerre Hancock, Charles Heaton, David Higgs, Wilma Jensen, Margaret Kemper, Charles Krigbaum, Joan Lippincott, Marilyn Mason, James Moeser, Thomas Murray, Bruce Neswick, John Obetz, Karel Paukert, Simon Preston, George Ritchie, Wolfgang Rübsam, David Schrader, Larry Smith, Frederick Swann, John Weaver, Todd Wilson and you. The list could go on for a very long time.

RK: You have commissioned a number of anthems. Who are some of the composers, and how did the Fourth Church Anthem Series come about?

MFS: Early on we commissioned Anthony Donato to write a piece for the centennial of the church which was in 1971. Subsequently, Gerald Near accepted a commission for one of our first arts festivals. Richard Proulx was asked by the church to compose a work to mark our twenty-fifth anniversary at the church in 1993. The Fourth Church Anthem Series is a joint venture with the church and the Hope Publishing Company, whose chairman of the board is Fourth Church member George Shorney. When I approached George with the idea, he very graciously accepted the challenge and suggested that the composers who were commissioned share a percentage of their royalties with the church and that those monies be used to help underwrite the Arts Festival. Composers in the series include Richard Proulx, Dan Locklair, Charles Huddleston Heaton, John Weaver, Walter Pelz, Kenneth Jennings and myself.  Last year alone over 3000 copies of the various anthems were sold--a very gratifying record for the promotion of good music in the church.

RK: Morgan, tell us something of your activities as a composer.

MFS: Much of the work that I have done has been for use at Fourth Church: a large number of vocal descants and responses as well as some free organ accompaniments. In addition I have composed works for several visiting organists including Cityscape for David Schrader, Metamorphosis for David Craighead, Conversation Piece--Pan and Cecilia Do Sums and Division for John and Maryanne Weaver, and Recitative and Variants on Fourth Church for Marilyn Keiser. I also composed a piece for oboe and organ for Ray Still of the Chicago Symphony as well as Prelude on a Melody by Sowerby which is inscribed to Mary.

RK: You alluded to your interest in hymnody and the teaching that you have done in that area. Tell us more about your association with the Hymn Society and the work that you have done for recent hymnal revisions.

MFS: Cyril V. Taylor, the composer of one of the most beautiful twentieth- century hymn tunes, Abbot's Leigh, was warden of the Royal School of Church Music when I studied there in the 50s. He taught a course in hymnody in such a fascinating manner that I was hooked and have maintained an abiding interest in the subject. My doctoral dissertation was "Latin Hymnody: Its Resurgence in English Usage," a study of the effect of the Oxford Movement on hymnody and the introduction of plainsong melodies to the English church during the 19th century.

Back at Union Seminary I came under the influence of Ruth Ellis Messenger who served, along with Carl Parrish, as my dissertation advisor. Through her urging I became active in the Hymn Society, serving as a member of its executive committee for a number of years and eventually as its vice president. Later I was secretary-treasurer of the Consultation on Ecumenical Hymnody for several years.

You will recall that in 1987, with your help, I compiled a small spiral bound volume of 87 hymns, Again I Say Rejoice, to introduce the congregation to some newer hymn texts and tunes that were not in the 1933 Presbyterian Hymnal. This collection proved to be a good bridge to the denominational hymnal that would appear in 1990.

I was a reader/consultant for The Hymnal 1982 as well as for The Presbyterian Hymnal of 1990, and I contributed a large number of essays on texts, tunes, authors and composers to the Companion To The Hymnal 1982.  That hymnal also includes two plainsong accompaniments which I was asked to compose, and 100 Hymns Of Hope includes my tune Fourth Church which is sung at Fourth Church every Sunday at the presentation of the offering.  The hymn writer Carl Daw, Jr. was commissioned to write the text for that response.

RK: You and Mary have long been active in the American Guild of Organists.  What have been your involvements with the Guild?

MFS: Mary and I joined the Guild when we were undergraduates at the University of Illinois and DePauw respectively. Mary is a past Dean of the North Shore Chapter and is currently an ex officio member of the board. We were both founding members of the Columbus Georgia Chapter when I was stationed at Fort Benning. I served as Dean of the DePauw University Chapter, Sub-Dean of the Columbus Chapter, Dean of the North Shore Chapter and am currently Director of the Committee on Denominational Relations on the national level.

RK: What is the work of that committee and how does its concerns reflect your thinking about the current state of church music?

MFS: The committee seeks to be a sounding board for the wide spectrum of concerns that face church musicians in various churches throughout the country. One of those concerns is the matter of the use of pre-recorded music for worship. You may have seen the statement on that issue in The American Organist. That statement was the result of a lot of work by our committee to address the critical matter of the sidelining of the human dimension in worship.

We are also concerned about the vapidity and banality of much that is being espoused by those who are advocates of the church growth movement.  This is a movement that considers the organ an antiquated means of enhancing worship and one that dismisses much which we as traditional church musicians hold dear, and declares them to be irrelevant to the so-called "seekers." Personally, and I think I speak for the members of the committee, I feel that there is an abdication on the part of many church leaders to do the hard work of providing substantive elements for worship whether it be in provocative preaching or mind-stretching hymn texts set to solid music. I like to think that is what has taken place over the years that we served at Fourth Church. The commitment to excellence at every level of the church staff is evident and the fact that we are at a record membership says that the church does not have to aim at the lowest level of mentality and taste to have a vital and vibrant community of faith.

RK: Your interests are not confined to the musical sphere. Let's talk about your gardening and needlepoint projects.

MFS: Gardening predates my musical interests. I began gardening at the age of four, but I wouldn't describe myself as a horticultural Mozart, even though I have taken a number of blue ribbons at African violet and rose shows. I have a small greenhouse which gives me a lot of pleasure and allows me to enjoy this abiding hobby year round. In it I have camellias and azaleas which keep me in touch with my Alabama roots. I also have orchids and other plants there. Since retiring I have already expanded the garden to include two new flower beds. We are looking forward to visiting the Chelsea Flower Show in London at the end of May.

Needlepoint has been a hobby from the end of my high school days and I have done quite a bit. As part of the renovation for the church I designed and stitched seven cushions for the chancel as well as a wedding kneeler, and now there are six more chancel cushions on the drawing board which will be begun upon our return from England.

RK: What are some of your retirement plans?

MFS: We hope to do more travel and visiting with our three children and six grandchildren. I plan to continue composing, to do some serious writing and get involved in some volunteer work-- perhaps with children. I have missed the contact I had with young people at the two churches we served prior to going to Fourth Church. As I said at our retirement celebration on March 24, there are still many roads left to travel. There is a lot of gas left in the tank, and I plan to continue to exceed the speed limit.

We look back on our active days as church musicians with a great sense of fulfillment and have remarked many times that we are among the most blessed in this our chosen field.

Thank you for the opportunity of sharing some of our thoughts with you and the readers of this venerable magazine which I have been reading for almost fifty years!               

16th Annual England Organ Tour

July 13–25, 2004

William Callaway

William Callaway is an organist and travel agent in Atlanta, Georgia.

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“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life, for London holds all that life affords.” So wrote Samuel Johnson in the eighteenth century, words that still hold true today. To paraphrase, it could also be said that “When an organist is tired of England, he is tired of life, for England holds all that an organist desires.” Indeed, the fabled island country is an organist’s dream, home to hundreds of noble and majestic instruments--many from the mid-nineteenth to mid-twentieth centuries--that survive to this day for the enjoyment of organ lovers everywhere. Imagine being able to not only see and hear, but play nearly two dozen of the great cathedral, church and concert hall organs of England.

The sixteenth annual Organ Tour of England got underway in London on July 13, 2004. Created and escorted by Leslie Peart, these tours begin and end in London, and focus on a particular region of the country each year. For this tour of eastern and northern England, a very congenial group of organists and organ enthusiasts from New York, Massachusetts, Illinois, Georgia, Texas, Oregon and Canada gathered for a get-acquainted lunch at the modern Holiday Inn Forum Hotel, the largest Holiday Inn in the world. Located in the fashionable borough of Kensington, within walking distance of Harrods, the Royal Albert Hall, parks and museums, the hotel was a comfortable and convenient base from which to explore England’s vibrant capital city. Meals in the quiet and private Forum Room were wonderful.

London

After a hearty pub lunch of traditional roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, our group’s first stop was Southwark Cathedral on London’s revitalized South Bank. Here we were warmly welcomed by Peter Wright, who briefly demonstrated the splendid 1897 4-manual Lewis, then turned the instrument over to us. Everyone who wished to got an opportunity to play on each and every organ we visited, which is a major feature of these tours. Our first evening in London got off to a fine start with James O’Donnell’s recital at Westminster Abbey, which included a complete performance of Widor’s Sixth Symphony. This was the first of five recitals that we heard on the tour, and we had choice reserved seats in the choir stalls to fully enjoy seeing and hearing this celebrated instrument.

Our second day in London began with a visit to Immaculate Conception Church Farm Street, a beautiful French Gothic style building designed by Pugin, with a richly-detailed interior. David Graham briefed us on the history of the church and organ, and played a comprehensive mini-recital to fully demonstrate the fine 1926 3-manual Willis. After we all had a chance to play, the tour continued via double-decker bus to the large Temple complex on the Strand. Paul Derret presented a lunchtime recital in the ancient Temple Church, after which we were free to try the marvelous 1926 4-manual Harrison & Harrison.

After dinner, we returned to Westminster Abbey for a private, after-hours session on the organ with assistant organist Andrew Reid. This was a highlight of the trip, as Mr. Reid gave a thorough demonstration of the 1937 5-manual Harrison & Harrison. He concluded with Walton’s “Orb and Sceptre,” an especially appropriate choice in this site of English coronations. After basking in the splendor of full organ, we were all able to play this famed instrument, a thrill I’m sure none of us will ever forget.

North of Londonn

The next day we met our very competent coach driver, David Attfield, himself an organist, and began our journey north. David describes these annual organ tours as the highlight of his year. First stop was Chelmsford Cathedral, home to two recent Mander tracker-action instruments. Since both organists were away, head verger Michael Rivers, another organ fan, acted as our host. Michael and his assistants first served us coffee and refreshments, and then turned the instruments over to us. The 3-manual in the chancel and the 4-manual in the rear gallery were both distinguished by beauty of tone and ease of action. It is possible to play both organs from each of the two consoles.

A short drive later, we arrived in the quaint small village of Long Melford, seemingly straight out of an Agatha Christie novel, with an imposing manor house, ivy-covered cottages and the Holy Trinity Church, deemed one of the most beautiful in England. This visit was intended more for the beauty of the church than the organ, but we enjoyed a leisurely time playing the 1887 Walker tracker organ and strolling through the grounds surrounding the church, full of interesting old tombstones, yew trees and rose bushes.

The final destination of the day was the university town of Cambridge, where we settled into the comfortable Gonville Hotel overlooking a large park (Parkers Piece) on the edge of the city center. There was time to explore this fascinating city on our own before a delicious dinner at our hotel.

Cambridge

On Friday we first visited Girton College Chapel in Cambridge to see the recently installed 4-manual tracker by the Swiss firm of St.-Martin, a rarity in England. As expected, the tone was very clean and bright, and the action easy and responsive. We then had several free hours for lunch on our own, shopping, sightseeing or punting on the Cam River. Several made an excursion to the beautiful American Cemetery on the outskirts of town, where nearly 4,000 U.S. servicemen from World War II are buried. At 3 pm, we walked half a block from our hotel to the Church of Our Lady of English Martyrs (R.C.) to experience the 1881 3-manual Abbot & Smith organ, recently restored by Nicholson. The organ sounded marvelous in this spacious and resonant French Gothic building, and our host Nigel Kerry was most helpful. After another excellent dinner in our hotel, we retired to a hospitality suite, with coffee and dessert, to watch the opening night concert of the Proms, which featured Martin Neary on the newly restored Royal Albert Hall organ, playing the Bach D-minor Toccata alone, and then the Fugue with the orchestra.

Ely

On Saturday, July 17, we drove the short distance from Cambridge to the spectacular Ely Cathedral, one of the glories of English architecture. We were among the first visitors of the day, and had this vast building pretty much to ourselves. After being greeted and briefed on the 1908 4-manual Harrison & Harrison by the assistant organist, we each climbed the narrow spiral staircase to the organ loft to play this majestic instrument. Our own Bob McDonald regaled us with the Widor Toccata as we wandered around the spacious nave, absorbing the history and beauty of this fantastic place.

After a scenic ride through the tranquil Fen country, we made a lunch stop in the old market town of Boston, where we briefly visited St. Botolf’s Church. We admired the spacious, light-filled interior and marveled at the spire--at 272 feet, the tallest of any parish church in England. Being Saturday, the city center was filled with market booths, providing the group with a very interesting experience.

In the afternoon we continued on to the large town of Kingston-upon-Hull to experience the magnificent 100-rank 1911 Foster & Hill organ in City Hall. The auditorium featured a wonderful frieze of classical mythological figures on the walls surrounding the organ façade, and the curator unlocked the pipe chamber, allowing us to explore the interior of this large instrument. We had a leisurely, enjoyable visit here, with ample time to fully familiarize ourselves with this fine concert instrument. Our group would be the last to play the organ for quite some time, as the auditorium was being shut down the next day for extensive redecorating. Final stop of the day was the fashionable resort town of Harrogate, where we settled into the Victorian Yorkshire Hotel, facing a green park filled with beautiful floral displays. This would be our base for a total of five nights from which we would explore the north of England.

York

For our first Sunday of the tour, we took a short coach ride to the walled medieval city of York to attend the main service in York Minster. We enjoyed the choral and organ music in the rolling acoustics of this imposing space, the largest gothic cathedral north of the Alps. The cathedral is in excellent shape, after the recent rebuilding of portions due to a tragic fire. Following the second service, John Scott Whiteley gave us a warm welcome, demonstrated the 1872 4-manual Willis, and then graciously allowed us to try our hand at the moveable chancel console. He also showed us the original console in the organ loft before excusing himself to play for a special service with Prince Philip and veterans of World War II, who entered the cathedral as we were leaving. We had some free time for lunch and exploring this fascinating town, winding through the crowded streets with the other Sunday visitors, taking advantage of a fine English summer afternoon.

Later in the day we drove to Armley, a suburb of Leeds, to visit St. Bartholomew’s Church and attend a recital by German organist Joachim Walter on the 1869 4-manual Schulze. He presented a fine program of works by romantic composers such as Mendelssohn, Beethoven, Reubke and others that worked very well on this instrument. During the interval the ladies of the church had set up tea and refreshments, and we all savored homemade cakes and trifles before getting to play this marvelous organ for ourselves.

Beverley

On Monday July 19, our first visit of the day was to the small town of Beverley to visit the famed Minster, another one of the architectural gems of England. We were welcomed by Alan Spedding, who presented a fine demonstration on the 1916 4-manual Arthur Hill instrument. The layout was similar to York Minster, with the main case on a center loft in the chancel and the towering 32-foot pipes in the side gallery. As in Ely, we were the first visitors of the day, and had this remarkable building pretty much to ourselves to enjoy as we all took turns playing and admiring the ornate interior.

Another short ride through the rolling northern English countryside brought us to the gates of Castle Howard, the stately home made famous as the setting for television’s “Brideshead Revisited.” We enjoyed a leisurely visit, made even more delightful by the fine summer weather. After lunch in the café on the lake, we had a private session in the chapel to play the 1872 smallish 3-manual Harrison tracker. There was then time to explore the house and extensive grounds, which included formal gardens, fountains and lakes. Back in Harrogate, our final visit of the day was at St. Peter’s Church, conveniently located next door to our hotel. Here we experienced another 4-manual Schulze, recently renovated by David Wood of Huddersfield. After dinner at the hotel, we were treated to the piano-playing talents of our own Bob MacDonald, to the delight of tour participants and hotel guests alike.

The Yorkshire area

On Tuesday July 20, we first headed south to Doncaster to see St. George’s Parish Church and its large 5-manual Schulze. Organist Andrew Wilson is an attorney in Sheffield, and could not be there. So we were again hosted by another head verger/organ fan, Chris Clay. After everyone had played here, we headed north again, driving through the picturesque Yorkshire moors and dales, and arrived in Durham after lunch. After checking into our comfortable and luxurious hotel, Leslie Peart led us up the twisting medieval streets to the massive Norman cathedral, which crowned the highest hill in the city, majestically overlooking the River Wear. We were graciously welcomed by James Lancelot, who demonstrated the superb 4-manual Willis, later rebuilt by Harrison & Harrison. After we had all taken turns playing, Mr. Lancelot ended our session with a brief fanfare on the commanding Tuba Mirabilis, sending us forth with the sound of this magnificent instrument still resounding throughout the cathedral.

The following day began with a private tour of the Harrison & Harrison organ building factory, a short ride from our hotel on the outskirts of town. We were warmly greeted by our charming hosts, Mark and Catherine Venning, who now own this venerable firm. It was fascinating to see the amount of painstakingly detailed work that goes into the building and restoration of fine pipe organs, and we left with a renewed appreciation of the technical complexities of the instrument. Harrison’s largest project at the time was the rebuilding of the organ of Peterborough Cathedral, which had suffered from a recent fire.

After free time in Durham for lunch and exploring, we rode to the large city of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the northernmost point of our tour, for a visit to the cathedral. Our jovial and enthusiastic host, Scott Farrell, showed us the 1881 4-manual Lewis, housed in a beautiful Renatus Harris case from 1676. After we had all enjoyed playing, we returned to Durham to prepare for dinner and a recital at the cathedral by our friend John Scott Whiteley. Most of us sat in the choir stalls to fully experience the awesome power of this instrument with its thundering 32-foot stops and powerful reeds. Mr. Whiteley presented a stunning program, concluding with his own transcription of a Cochereau improvisation.

On Thursday July 22, we reluctantly checked out of Durham and headed south to the Leeds Parish Church to see an unusual 4-manual instrument of various builders, with some of the pipework dating back to 1771. Our host, Simon Lindley, welcomed us and gave an introduction to the organ, installed behind a large wooden Gothic screen. Sitting at the console, one can almost imagine being in a jail cell! After we had all played and enjoyed the church’s coffeehouse, we rode to the large town of Huddersfield to visit the splendid 1881 4-manual Father Willis organ in the town hall. We were enthusiastically greeted by Scottish organist Gordon Stewart, who offered us tea and refreshments, then played a superb mini-recital to show off this wonderful instrument. David Wood of Huddersfield was also there--he and his firm did the last rebuilding of this instrument. It was very satisfying to then be able to play this grand Victorian concert organ.

After lunch at a local pub, we boarded our coach for a short ride back to Harrogate and the Yorkshire Hotel, our base for northern England. Our final visit of the day was to nearby St. Wilfrid’s Church, home to another fine 1928 Harrison & Harrison of surprisingly robust tone. We all took turns playing before returning to our hotel for the evening.

Our first stop on Friday was the Rochdale Town Hall, an impressive Victorian Gothic style building completed in 1871. Organ curator Edward Riggs greeted us and led us up the regal grand staircase to the fantastic Great Hall richly decorated with stained glass, painting and woodcarving. Here we had a delightful time on the 1913 4-manual Binns organ, housed in alcoves behind a raised stage area. The console sits on a high platform, so one actually climbs aboard! Our group played mostly lighter popular selections here, including “The Lost Chord,” “Phantom of the Opera,” and “Londonderry Air,” which all worked well on this full-bodied Edwardian instrument.

We moved on to Blackburn to visit the cathedral and the newly rebuilt and enlarged 1969 Walker. This was the third organ we visited that had been rebuilt by David Wood, including the addition of a new console and Solo division. The pipes were mounted high up on the chancel walls in “swallows’ nest” chambers, and the elegant movable 4-manual console had been placed in the middle of the sanctuary for us. We all enjoyed playing this wonderful instrument in surprisingly resonant acoustics, giving the Imperial Trumpet a good workout as several of the group played trumpet tunes, fanfares and big toccatas.

Then it was back on the coach for a short ride to Whitefield, a suburb of Manchester, for our final visit of the day to All Saints Stand Church, where our friend Gordon Stewart was organist. The 1926 3-manual Harrison & Harrison impressed us with its full, robust tone. We also admired the finely carved woodwork on the altar, choir stalls and organ case before returning to Harrogate through the scenic Yorkshire countryside--the backbone of England, according to our driver David Attfield.

On Saturday July 24, we checked out of the Yorkshire Hotel and had a short ride south to Wakefield. Arriving in the late morning, we were glad to discover an open-air farmer’s market had been set up in the streets surrounding the cathedral. The vendors were mainly French, and the air was heavy with the aromas of fresh baguettes, sausages, cheeses and spices. Several of our group purchased bags of cookies and pastries to enjoy with their coffee break before we entered the cathedral for the fifth and final recital of the tour. David Holder played an interesting and varied program on the 5-manual unified instrument containing pipework by various builders, again most recently by David Wood. After the recital we had time to play the organ ourselves before leaving on the final leg of our journey back to London. We arrived in the capital in the late afternoon and returned to the Holiday Inn Forum Hotel. After an excellent farewell dinner together, we were free to attend a Proms concert at the nearby Albert Hall, or partake of one of the many other cultural opportunities of this exciting city.

The tour officially concluded after breakfast on Sunday July 25, although many participants opted to stay an extra day or two to more fully explore London. Leslie Peart escorted a group of us to reserved seats under the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral for the main service, followed by lunch in the historic Albert Pub near the houses of Parliament. The afternoon was free to enjoy evensong and organ recitals at the major churches of London, and some of our group attended a Proms concert that evening.

Each year the England Organ Tour focuses on a particular region of England. This year’s tour will take place July 12-25, 2005, and will feature the cathedrals and organs of southwestern England and Wales, concluding with three days at the Southern Cathedrals Festival at Winchester Cathedral. For more information, contact Leslie Peart at 2129 Fairway Drive, Springfield, IL 62704; phone 217/546-2562; e-mail <[email protected]>.

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