Wonderful choral music, spacious acoustics, massive organs and gifted musicians—all comprised a successful trip to England last spring for my wife and me. We spent six days in London, and then we drove through the countryside. Naturally, in London we visited as many churches, museums and art galleries as possible. St. Martin in the Fields has a thriving restaurant in the undercroft, serving food until well into the evening and scones and tea during the afternoon. When an evening concert dismisses, the restaurant fills quickly. A store and brass rubbing facility are also on the premises. Our trip to St. Paul’s Cathedral allowed us to climb to the dome; however, Evensong was said because the choristers were on Easter holiday. Westminster Abbey provided an Evensong at 3:00 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon. One of the docents, well-marked with a dark green cape, told us that she was standing in the choir area one day when a woman approached her with the question: “Do you feel the spirit?” The docent told her that the Holy Spirit was always at work in the abbey. The strange woman told her that another spirit was definitely in the quire area. The docent still is wondering who the spirit could be!
Evensong brought about 200 worshipers to the abbey. The officiant gets his pitch from a handy box of tuning forks behind his prayer desk. James O’Donnell leads a wonderful Choir of Men and Boys. We were late to attend the Evensong at Wells Cathedral in the western part of England. Since ropes were completely shutting us out of the quire area, we sat in the cathedral area to hear the rest of the service. What a wonderful sound in this spacious building.
The organs were not in use at Blenheim palace, but the presence of the Churchill memorabilia was fascinating. Since my wife worked for Hallmark Cards in Kansas City, Missouri, we were especially fascinated that Churchill’s cards were later published by the Hallmark company. The palace is the home of the Dukes of Marlborough. The first John Churchill won an important battle on the continent, and he charged a Virginian to hurry back to England to tell of his victory. It took the American eight days to make the trip with the news. One member of our party suggested that the early Americans had as much trouble with the round-abouts in England as we do!
During our visit to Coventry Cathedral, Jean and I remembered seeing many of the silver crosses of reconciliation in churches around Europe. Coventry Cathedral presents these to other churches on the continent. We especially remembered the cross in St. Nicolas Church in Leipzig, Germany. A college choir from William Jewell College in Liberty, Missouri, was to perform at the Coventry Cathedral the following week.
The charming city of York brought us another Evensong service. This Sunday afternoon service featured the Girl’s Choir with the lay clerks. Three of the girls were honored and elevated to head choristers at the service. It was beautifully sung.
The town of Cambridge is a not to be missed musical delight. Evensong at King’s College Chapel is a must. This chapel offered the only service where the officiant received the pitch from the organ. Stephen Cleobury sat away from the choir for half of the service. He directed only the stirring anthem by Edward Elgar. Each side of the choir was directed by one of the lay clerks. My organ teacher, Ronald Arnatt, former president of the AGO, informed me that in his day at King’s one finger directed the choir. As a child, Dr. Arnatt sang the Once in Royal David’s City solo for the Nine Lessons and Carols three years in a row. He also pointed out that one of his good friends across the stalls would try to make him laugh, especially before important solos.
It is poignant to hear a prayer for peace offered on the hour by clergy at every major cathedral in England. Most of the cathedrals also have quite a large marble inlay that honors the men and women who, during the blitz of World War II, stayed on the roofs of the cathedrals and threw the incendiary bombs off the roof before damage could be done.
Jean and I returned the next day to St. John’s College Chapel for Evensong. The choristers were excused this day, so the service was sung by the lay clerks. Although the young men sang beautifully, the clergy officiant was pitch challenged and had to resort to the pitch pipe very frequently.
On to Canterbury with its history. The cathedral close is very beautiful—Jean and I love to travel in the late spring to see the gardens in full bloom. Here an 80-year-old docent told us that she was engaged to marry a Canadian soldier when she was just 18 years of age. Since her English family had no means at all, the Canadian family sent her a beautiful wedding dress. She found that her fiancé was killed in Germany one week before the war ended. Although she married another man, lived happily and raised children and grandchildren, she told us that a day does not go by without her thinking of the Canadian soldier.
It is truly fascinating to hear the many stories and talk to the people during our travels.
