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Dresden’s Frauenkirche: Once a Silbermann, now a Kern

Joel H. Kuznik

Joel H. Kuznik visited Dresden in 2003 and 2004 while attending the Leipzig Bachfest, once on a daytrip and once on festival excursion to hear Silbermann’s last organ in the Hofkirche or Cathedral, which was completed after his death by his one-time apprentice, Zacharias Hildebrandt. In same years Kuznik also went on Bachfest excursions to hear the two Silbermanns in Rötha. In the past several years he has had over twenty articles published in four journals, including The Diapason. Recordings of the organs are available through OHS.

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Dresden has a new Frauenkirche with a new organ. The original “Church of Our Lady” was a striking architectural achievement by Georg Bähr, city architect and master builder, whose design dominated the Dresden skyline for over 200 years. It was Germany’s largest Protestant (Evangelical-Lutheran) church, seating 3200, and popularly known as the “stone bell” because of its enormous dome rising over 320 feet. The organ was built by the renowned Saxon builder, Gottfried Silbermann, and played by Bach in a two-hour recital on December 1, just days after the dedication in 1736.1
The new Frauenkirche was dedicated almost 270 years later on October 30, 2005. The old church had collapsed in 1945 after a two-day Allied bombing blitz created an inferno that incinerated the church’s interior. The ruins, tons of stone, lay like a grim memorial pile until the fall of the Wall in 1989 and the reunification of Germany made fund-raising and rebuilding a possibility. The cornerstone was laid in 1992, and thirteen years later the monumental reconstruction at a cost of $210 million was dedicated with three days of celebratory services, as The New York Times announced, “A Symbol of War’s Horrors Is Reborn in Dresden as a Testament of Hope and Healing.”2 See the church’s website in English: .
The new organ was intended to be part of that healing process. A reconstruction of the Silbermann was considered, but in the end the church’s Organ Commission asked Daniel Kern of Strasbourg to present a proposal for a new organ that would not be a copy of Silbermann, but for which Silbermann would serve as a model. Kern’s plans and concept raise questions, which are best answered in his own words, outlined in an informative commentary on the organ’s design at .
When he visited Dresden in 2003 to get an impression of the church, which was still shrouded in scaffolding, Kern was struck by the sign “Creating Peace—Building Bridges.” He writes, “In that moment it was clear to me [that my mission was] to create a musical, cultural, and peace-making bridge—to build a work in which the Saxon (via Gottfried Silbermann), Alsatian (via Andreas Silbermann) and Parisian organ culture (via Cavaillé-Coll) could be united in sound.”
Kern has never been inspired by the strict reconstructions of Gottfried Silbermann except for his great organ at Dresden’s Hofkirche (Court Church) and Kathedral, a short walk from the Frauenkirche.3 So instead of another reconstruction, Kern proposed “to offer the musical life of Dresden [an organ that would bring] new horizons and possibilities.” The Organ Commission agreed and chose Kern in February 2003. The organ was installed a little over two years later in May 2005 at a cost of $2.1 million.
Silbermann’s organ had three manuals: Hauptwerk, Oberwerk, and Brustwerk. Kern has added a fourth: a Récit Expressif after Cavaillé–Coll. The two specifications look almost identical—compare the stoplists—with Kern adding a few stops here and there and a Récit that increases the organ from 43 ranks to 65. The placement of the divisions within the new organ case, a replica of Bähr’s original plans, is also close to Silbermann’s layout: the Brustwerk and Pedal at the bottom, the Hauptwerk high in the façade with the Oberwerk above that and the Récit directly behind it.
The suspended tracker action for all four manuals was built in the “classical” style and with solely “classical” materials. [Where Kern uses the word classical, we might understand historical.] The manuals can be coupled mechanically, but an assist can also be used, especially in the large Romantic pieces where many stops and couplers are needed. For the Brustwerk there is a mechanical transposer that shifts the pitch to 415 Hz to accompany older music. The Silbermann was tuned in meantone, while the Kern is in equal temperament.
The pipework for the three historic manuals (HW, BR and OW) and pedal is made according to the “classical models and scales” of Gottfried and Andreas Silbermann. The principals and reeds are of 87.5% tin, while the flutes and Gedackts contain more lead. For the pipes of the Récit, Kern used Cavaillé–Coll’s scaling and alloys. The principals and reeds are 75% tin, the Bourdon and flutes 33%. The Swell is modeled after Cavaillé–Coll’s organ of St. Sernin in Toulouse.4 The organ is tuned at 442 Hz at 18° Celsius (64.4° F), whereas Silbermann used chamber pitch 410–415 Hz.1
In voicing the organ, Kern has given himself a complex, challenging balancing act of creating “a classical brilliance in the mixtures for the plenum, a singing strength in the principals, gravitas in the reeds and bass stops, color and poetry in the mutations and reeds, and subtlety and clarity in the flutes and strings.”
This builder has great confidence in his ability and the success of the Frauenkirche organ. For Romantic and 20th-century repertoire, Kern believes it is possible to integrate a large Swell without compromising the historical core of the organ. By providing principals, wide flutes, narrow strings and a Voix Celeste, he feels it is possible to create a stylistic breadth that also embraces the Romantic and symphonic repertoire. The results draw not only on the inclusion of the Récit, but also “on our experience with scaling and voicing” in creating a comprehensive tonal palette.
“The instrument is, structurally and tonally, in decisive respects (including wind supply from six bellows, internal layout and intonation), closely based on the Silbermann organ. It has, however, been modified to meet contemporary requirements . . . . The Kern organ combines numerous virtues of a historic organ with technical advantages of a modern concert instrument. Thus an organ has been created which meets both the new and the historic requirements for church music in the Frauenkirche.”5
The Kern Company was founded in 1953 by Alfred Kern, whose work was warmly supported by Dr. Alfred Schweitzer. The company is internationally known due to its restoration and reconstruction of many instruments by Clicquot, Cavaillé-Coll, and Andreas Silbermann. They have also new instruments in France, Germany, Japan, and one in the USA at University Park United Methodist Church, Dallas. In 1977 Alfred Kern’s son, Daniel, who had apprenticed in other firms, took over the company.

Frauenkirche Dresden—Organ Music: Bach & Duruflé. Samuel Kummer, organist. Hybrid Multichannel Surround-Sound. Carus CD 83.188, ©2005. Available through Albany Music Distributors, 800/752-1951 or online at ; also available from the Organ Historical Society, 804/353-9226; .
Bach-Vivaldi Concerto in D Minor, BWV 596; Trio on “Herr Jesu Christ,” BWV 655; Pièce d’orgue, BWV 572; Partita on “Sei gegrüßet,” BWV 768; and the Duruflé Suite, op. 5.
The proof, they say, is in the pudding, here the sound—and also in the playing—in this debut CD of the Kern organ and the Frauenkirche organist released on the day of its dedication, October 30, 2005. The organ was commissioned in February 2003 and installed a little over two years later in May 2005. This recording was made last September.
Performer. Samuel Kummer won the post as organist of the Frauenkirche over a field of 38 applicants. A native of Stuttgart, he studied organ and improvisation there at the Hochschule for Music and the Performing Arts and upon graduation in 1987 received an award in improvisation. He has been a prize-winner in international organ competitions, taking First Prize at the “Concours l’Europe et l’Orgue” at Maastricht.
He has performed recitals in Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic States, Poland, Hungary, Guatemala, and in the USA at the Mormon Tabernacle. He has appeared at the European Organ Festival (Maastricht) and the International Bach Festival (Warsaw). Before his appointment at the Frauenkirche, he served as district Cantor at St. Martin’s Church, Kirchheim/Teck. He began his duties in Dresden on July 1, 2005. Performance. Kummer’s program reflects two roles of the Kern organ—Silbermann and Cavaillé-Coll, Bach and Romantic. He presents four Bach genres: concerto, chorale prelude/trio, chorale partita, and JSB’s “French” piece, a favorite among Germans. The room has a reverberation of 71?2 seconds, but Kummer’s Bach is nonetheless brisk, energetic, and articulate with a straightforward rhythm that could benefit from a dash of Viennese warmth. By contrast, his Duruflé has a musical sweep and unfolding shape that engages the ear. As much as he may love Bach, his heart, his passion, seems to be French Romantic.
Registration./ Registrations are carefully documented,6 and Kummer strives to meet the composer’s expectations with interesting results and by the idiomatic inclusion of tierces to enrich Saxon plenums and of flutes to mellow French solo reeds. For Bach, Kummer uses the transparent, bright resources of the Silbermann HW/OW, whereas the Cavaillé-Coll Récit dominates and richly colors the Duruflé, proving the organ to be something of an ingenious, ingratiating chameleon. “A program rich in stylistic contrasts demonstrates the amazing tonal versatility of this organ.”7
Production. Carus has presented an attractive, well-engineered multi-channel surround-sound SACD/CD that will delight audiophiles and rattle bass woofers, making it possible to count the beats of the 32' Fagott at the end of the Bach Pièce. This issue by Carus is distinguished by a clarity of ambient sound and a brochure with beautiful photos, informative essays, and helpful notes. Refer to the German or French text for full comments with a structural diagram on “Sei gegrüsset.” Overall—splendid contribution and an admirable debut for the Frauenkirche organ and organist Samuel Kummer.

Related Content

Dresden’s Frauenkirche: Once a Silbermann, now a Kern

Joel H. Kuznik

Joel H. Kuznik visited Dresden in 2003 and 2004 while attending the Leipzig Bachfest, once on a daytrip and once on festival excursion to hear Silbermann’s last organ in the Hofkirche or Cathedral, which was completed after his death by his one-time apprentice, Zacharias Hildebrandt. In same years Kuznik also went on Bachfest excursions to hear the two Silbermanns in Rötha. In the past several years he has had over twenty articles published in four journals, including The Diapason. Recordings of the organs are available through OHS.

Default

Dresden has a new Frauenkirche with a new organ. The original “Church of Our Lady” was a striking architectural achievement by Georg Bähr, city architect and master builder, whose design dominated the Dresden skyline for over 200 years. It was Germany’s largest Protestant (Evangelical-Lutheran) church, seating 3200, and popularly known as the “stone bell” because of its enormous dome rising over 320 feet. The organ was built by the renowned Saxon builder, Gottfried Silbermann, and played by Bach in a two-hour recital on December 1, just days after the dedication in 1736.1
The new Frauenkirche was dedicated almost 270 years later on October 30, 2005. The old church had collapsed in 1945 after a two-day Allied bombing blitz created an inferno that incinerated the church’s interior. The ruins, tons of stone, lay like a grim memorial pile until the fall of the Wall in 1989 and the reunification of Germany made fund-raising and rebuilding a possibility. The cornerstone was laid in 1992, and thirteen years later the monumental reconstruction at a cost of $210 million was dedicated with three days of celebratory services, as The New York Times announced, “A Symbol of War’s Horrors Is Reborn in Dresden as a Testament of Hope and Healing.”2 See the church’s website in English: .
The new organ was intended to be part of that healing process. A reconstruction of the Silbermann was considered, but in the end the church’s Organ Commission asked Daniel Kern of Strasbourg to present a proposal for a new organ that would not be a copy of Silbermann, but for which Silbermann would serve as a model. Kern’s plans and concept raise questions, which are best answered in his own words, outlined in an informative commentary on the organ’s design at .
When he visited Dresden in 2003 to get an impression of the church, which was still shrouded in scaffolding, Kern was struck by the sign “Creating Peace—Building Bridges.” He writes, “In that moment it was clear to me [that my mission was] to create a musical, cultural, and peace-making bridge—to build a work in which the Saxon (via Gottfried Silbermann), Alsatian (via Andreas Silbermann) and Parisian organ culture (via Cavaillé-Coll) could be united in sound.”
Kern has never been inspired by the strict reconstructions of Gottfried Silbermann except for his great organ at Dresden’s Hofkirche (Court Church) and Kathedral, a short walk from the Frauenkirche.3 So instead of another reconstruction, Kern proposed “to offer the musical life of Dresden [an organ that would bring] new horizons and possibilities.” The Organ Commission agreed and chose Kern in February 2003. The organ was installed a little over two years later in May 2005 at a cost of $2.1 million.
Silbermann’s organ had three manuals: Hauptwerk, Oberwerk, and Brustwerk. Kern has added a fourth: a Récit Expressif after Cavaillé–Coll. The two specifications look almost identical—compare the stoplists—with Kern adding a few stops here and there and a Récit that increases the organ from 43 ranks to 65. The placement of the divisions within the new organ case, a replica of Bähr’s original plans, is also close to Silbermann’s layout: the Brustwerk and Pedal at the bottom, the Hauptwerk high in the façade with the Oberwerk above that and the Récit directly behind it.
The suspended tracker action for all four manuals was built in the “classical” style and with solely “classical” materials. [Where Kern uses the word classical, we might understand historical.] The manuals can be coupled mechanically, but an assist can also be used, especially in the large Romantic pieces where many stops and couplers are needed. For the Brustwerk there is a mechanical transposer that shifts the pitch to 415 Hz to accompany older music. The Silbermann was tuned in meantone, while the Kern is in equal temperament.
The pipework for the three historic manuals (HW, BR and OW) and pedal is made according to the “classical models and scales” of Gottfried and Andreas Silbermann. The principals and reeds are of 87.5% tin, while the flutes and Gedackts contain more lead. For the pipes of the Récit, Kern used Cavaillé–Coll’s scaling and alloys. The principals and reeds are 75% tin, the Bourdon and flutes 33%. The Swell is modeled after Cavaillé–Coll’s organ of St. Sernin in Toulouse.4 The organ is tuned at 442 Hz at 18° Celsius (64.4° F), whereas Silbermann used chamber pitch 410–415 Hz.1
In voicing the organ, Kern has given himself a complex, challenging balancing act of creating “a classical brilliance in the mixtures for the plenum, a singing strength in the principals, gravitas in the reeds and bass stops, color and poetry in the mutations and reeds, and subtlety and clarity in the flutes and strings.”
This builder has great confidence in his ability and the success of the Frauenkirche organ. For Romantic and 20th-century repertoire, Kern believes it is possible to integrate a large Swell without compromising the historical core of the organ. By providing principals, wide flutes, narrow strings and a Voix Celeste, he feels it is possible to create a stylistic breadth that also embraces the Romantic and symphonic repertoire. The results draw not only on the inclusion of the Récit, but also “on our experience with scaling and voicing” in creating a comprehensive tonal palette.
“The instrument is, structurally and tonally, in decisive respects (including wind supply from six bellows, internal layout and intonation), closely based on the Silbermann organ. It has, however, been modified to meet contemporary requirements . . . . The Kern organ combines numerous virtues of a historic organ with technical advantages of a modern concert instrument. Thus an organ has been created which meets both the new and the historic requirements for church music in the Frauenkirche.”5
The Kern Company was founded in 1953 by Alfred Kern, whose work was warmly supported by Dr. Alfred Schweitzer. The company is internationally known due to its restoration and reconstruction of many instruments by Clicquot, Cavaillé-Coll, and Andreas Silbermann. They have also new instruments in France, Germany, Japan, and one in the USA at University Park United Methodist Church, Dallas. In 1977 Alfred Kern’s son, Daniel, who had apprenticed in other firms, took over the company.

Frauenkirche Dresden—Organ Music: Bach & Duruflé. Samuel Kummer, organist. Hybrid Multichannel Surround-Sound. Carus CD 83.188, ©2005. Available through Albany Music Distributors, 800/752-1951 or online at ; also available from the Organ Historical Society, 804/353-9226; .
Bach-Vivaldi Concerto in D Minor, BWV 596; Trio on “Herr Jesu Christ,” BWV 655; Pièce d’orgue, BWV 572; Partita on “Sei gegrüßet,” BWV 768; and the Duruflé Suite, op. 5.
The proof, they say, is in the pudding, here the sound—and also in the playing—in this debut CD of the Kern organ and the Frauenkirche organist released on the day of its dedication, October 30, 2005. The organ was commissioned in February 2003 and installed a little over two years later in May 2005. This recording was made last September.
Performer. Samuel Kummer won the post as organist of the Frauenkirche over a field of 38 applicants. A native of Stuttgart, he studied organ and improvisation there at the Hochschule for Music and the Performing Arts and upon graduation in 1987 received an award in improvisation. He has been a prize-winner in international organ competitions, taking First Prize at the “Concours l’Europe et l’Orgue” at Maastricht.
He has performed recitals in Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic States, Poland, Hungary, Guatemala, and in the USA at the Mormon Tabernacle. He has appeared at the European Organ Festival (Maastricht) and the International Bach Festival (Warsaw). Before his appointment at the Frauenkirche, he served as district Cantor at St. Martin’s Church, Kirchheim/Teck. He began his duties in Dresden on July 1, 2005. Performance. Kummer’s program reflects two roles of the Kern organ—Silbermann and Cavaillé-Coll, Bach and Romantic. He presents four Bach genres: concerto, chorale prelude/trio, chorale partita, and JSB’s “French” piece, a favorite among Germans. The room has a reverberation of 71?2 seconds, but Kummer’s Bach is nonetheless brisk, energetic, and articulate with a straightforward rhythm that could benefit from a dash of Viennese warmth. By contrast, his Duruflé has a musical sweep and unfolding shape that engages the ear. As much as he may love Bach, his heart, his passion, seems to be French Romantic.
Registration./ Registrations are carefully documented,6 and Kummer strives to meet the composer’s expectations with interesting results and by the idiomatic inclusion of tierces to enrich Saxon plenums and of flutes to mellow French solo reeds. For Bach, Kummer uses the transparent, bright resources of the Silbermann HW/OW, whereas the Cavaillé-Coll Récit dominates and richly colors the Duruflé, proving the organ to be something of an ingenious, ingratiating chameleon. “A program rich in stylistic contrasts demonstrates the amazing tonal versatility of this organ.”7
Production. Carus has presented an attractive, well-engineered multi-channel surround-sound SACD/CD that will delight audiophiles and rattle bass woofers, making it possible to count the beats of the 32' Fagott at the end of the Bach Pièce. This issue by Carus is distinguished by a clarity of ambient sound and a brochure with beautiful photos, informative essays, and helpful notes. Refer to the German or French text for full comments with a structural diagram on “Sei gegrüsset.” Overall—splendid contribution and an admirable debut for the Frauenkirche organ and organist Samuel Kummer.

Kristian Wegscheider: Master Restorer and Organbuilder

Joel H. Kuznik

Joel Kuznik has served as a college organist and professor, a church musician, a pastor, and as a business executive on Fifth Avenue, Wall Street, and at MetLife. After several years of retirement from business, he revived writing for professional journals, something he had done since his college days. After attending the Bachfest 2003 in Leipzig, he again began writing articles and reviews. With over 60 pieces in print ranging from reviews of concerts and festivals, travelogues, books on church music, concert hall organs, CDs and DVDs, he was recognized and named to the Music Critics Association of North America (MCANA) in May 2005. He is also a member of the American Bach Society and serves on the board of the Bach Vespers at Holy Trinity in New York City, where he has lived for 32 years. His organ teachers were Austin C. Lovelace, Frederick Swann, Ronald Arnatt, David Craighead, Jean Langlais, Marie-Madeleine Duruflé-Chevalier, and Anton Heiller. As a member of the AGO, he has served as dean of the Ft. Wayne chapter, on the executive board of the New York City chapter, and on the national financial board. He holds a BA summa cum laude from Concordia Sr. College (formerly at Ft. Wayne), a Min.Div and STM from Concordia Seminary, St. Louis, and an MM from the Eastman School of Music.

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Mention Saxony to most organists, and they immediately think of the 18th century, Gottfried Silbermann and his catalogue of 31 extraordinary instruments, which are still being played.1 An amazing testimony! But today one hears more and more of Kristian Wegscheider, widely admired for his dynamic restorations of Silbermann organs as well as those of Hildebrandt, Schnitger and Ladegast—and whose reputation as a builder is so respected that he was considered for the new organs at St. Thomas, Leipzig and the Frauenkirche in Dresden.
Steven Dieck, president of C. B. Fisk, Inc., credits Wegscheider with being “very helpful in discovering the ‘secrets’ of Gottfried Silbermann and continues to be, not only for us, but also for any other organbuilder. There is no disputing that Kristian and his shop are the experts on the work of Gottfried Silbermann.”
Stefan Engels of Leipzig’s University of Music & Theatre notes that “Kristian Wegscheider is one of the leading organ builders of our time when it comes to the restoration of historic instruments from the 17th and 18th centuries. His knowledge of style, his talent for research, and his ability to relate to the distinct sounds of old organs is unique. It is a joy to experience this artist and his superb work.”
And, as Steve Dieck points out, Wegscheider has an international involvement and impact. “Once East Germany opened itself to the rest of the world, Kristian’s company became a member of the International Society of Organbuilders. Shortly after that, he helped to organize one of the ISO’s biennial congresses held in Dresden. He is currently second vice president of the ISO and again helped to organize the congress in September 2008, which began in Gdansk, Poland and worked its way by train and boat to Stralsund, Germany, where members of ISO visited significant organs.”2
“He continues to share his vast knowledge of the works of Gottfried Silbermann with his many organbuilding colleagues around the world. He has visited the U.S. many times, and was invited to collaborate with Fritz Noack in making a ‘Hildebrandt’ style organ for Christ the King Lutheran Church in Houston, Texas.”
And those who have been fortunate to hear Wegscheider’s restorations or new instruments would add, “This is a builder about whom Americans need to know more.”

Background
Kristian Wegscheider was born in 1954 in Ahrenshoop, a small resort town on the Baltic Coast of Northern Germany. After stints in the army and a year with a furniture-maker, he began his apprenticeship with the esteemed Jehmlich Dresden organbuilding firm, which dates back to 1808 and is associated with the restorations of the magnificent Silbermann cathedral organs in Dresden and Freiberg.
Kristian immediately took an immense interest in historic organs and worked on restorations in Berlin and Leipzig. He became head of Jehmlich’s restoration department and supervised restorations of the 1714 Silbermann in Freiberg’s Cathedral and the 1868 Lütkemüller organ at the Güstrower Cathedral.

Orgelwerkstatt Wegscheider Dresden
As Wegscheider writes for his firm’s website,3 the creation of his organ workshop in Dresden in 1989 coincided with the fall of the Wall and became possible with the parallel vehement political and social changes. These were indeed complicated times in the GDR, and the emergence of a new private company was no simple venture.
At the time it was not unusual in the GDR for restorations and even the repair of organs to be delayed up to 20 years. In 1987, that gave Wegscheider an idea, often treated perfunctorily and bureaucratically, to create his own workshop specializing in restorations and repair. He overcame numerous hurdles—among other things, getting a trade license and acquiring the space for engaging in a trade, and one couldn’t get one without the other.
In order to bridge the gap, Wegscheider worked for almost a year in the restoration workshop of the Museum of Musical Instruments at the University of Leipzig. With the assistance of friends and with some luck, however, the initial problems were overcome. That was all quickly forgotten, once work began in the spring of 1989 with the reconditioning of an old carpenter’s shop in Dresden’s Neustadt (“new city”).4 His first two coworkers were the organ builder and pipemaker Hartmut Schütz, who had also trained with Jehmlich, and his long-time friend and a carpenter, Matthias Weisbach. Requirements were completed in December of 1990, and Wegscheider was able to receive his certification as a master craftsman (“Meisterbrief”).
The workshop officially began operating June 1, 1989, and in September there was a big celebration with friends and colleagues. For this historic event, a narrow-gauge steam train was rented, and the area in front of the shop was transformed into an open-air theatre. When the borders opened that fall, a group of five made a week-long “discovery journey” into the “West” finally to hear and investigate for themselves organs they had often read and heard about, an adventure that just weeks before had seemed impossible.
During this week, the team was able to examine the old instruments of East Frisia (Ostfriesland, a costal region along the North Sea bordering the Netherlands to the west),5 which for them was like an “organbuilder’s paradise.” There they also inspected the shop of the famous Jürgen Ahrend, contacted the North German Organ Academy, and had discussions with organ experts, musicologists and organists. This all became invaluable in forming their own firm and served as the basis for artistic work. Additional “educational journeys” became a regular experience and took them to South Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and France. How exhilarating this must have been—the new freedom to explore and discover!

Wegscheider: first projects
The first project was a new instrument for the Allstedt Castle Chapel in Mansfeld. The small organ was to complement the Baroque room and conform to old established models of classical organbuilding. The shop was to do something that had never been done in East Germany before—to make an instrument completely from wood, tin, lead, leather and brass without using plywood, aluminum, nitrate lacquer, plastic and prefabricated mechanisms.
Also, this instrument would reflect Wegscheider’s long-held interest in providing two temperaments that can be played interchangeably: meantone for Renaissance music and well-tempered for Baroque. The idea originated in Charles Fisk’s dual-temperament organ at California’s Stanford University (1984),6 but this was to be the first such instrument in Europe, with Wegscheider working to improve the result both technically and musically.7
This new organ for Allstedt was followed by a number of restorations in the states of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Saxony-Anhalt, Brandenburg and Thuringia, while at the same there developed partnership work in Saxony. Much of the work, now with seven co-workers, involved restoring damaged organs, some long unplayable due to water damage or wood worms. Other builders had refused to work on them or recommended replacements, but to Wegscheider these instruments were too valuable to be discarded. Congregations, in turn, were grateful for the efforts of their municipalities to preserve these organs.
Expansion
By 1993 it was clear that the company needed new, larger facilities. The company had expanded to ten employees, with only 400 square meters of workspace and with insufficient height to assemble instruments. Finally a carpenter’s workshop was found in Dresden–Hellerau in the old village center of Rähnitz. During the move, the firm continued to work on a restoration of the Silbermann for the Bremen Cathedral (I/8, 1734)8 and an identical copy of it for the Silbermann Museum in Frauenstein, so that the dedication of the new workshop in July 1994 could take place in a concert using both organs with the Dresden Baroque Orchestra.
After all this excitement, work continued routinely, but always with interesting projects. One was the extensive renovation of the Schulze organ, with the reconstruction of a 32′ Posaune in Markneukirchen, a town in Saxony known as a center for making musical instruments as well as its Museum of Musical Instruments. Another instance was building a new 20-rank organ inside an historic case in Steinwedel near Hannover, which demonstrated what a builder like Wegscheider with experience in historical models could do.

Langhennersdorf, Nikolaikirche
But the high point of this period was completing the renovation of the organ at St. Nicholas Church in Langhennersdorf, a beautiful village near Freiberg. This Opus 1 by Silbermann’s apprentice Zacharias Hildebrandt (1722) as his Meisterstück (masterpiece) was built to certify him as an organbuilder. It is a revelation to hear—exciting, vibrant, present, colorful, and commanding.
But all this came after some blood, sweat and tears. Begun in 1989–90 during the turbulent reunification of Germany, this was Wegscheider’s first big contract and was threatened by obstacles beyond his control. However, he remained determined and continued working piece by piece as the church, which was committed to the challenge, raised funds. What exuberance there must have been at rededication on Reformation Day, 1996!

Langhennersdorf Nikolaikirche9
1722 Zacharias Hildebrandt (II+P/21)
1989–1996 Kristian Wegscheider

Hauptwerk
8′ Principal
8′ Rohrflöte
8′ Quintadena
4′ Praestant
4′ Spitzflöte
3′ Quinta
2′ Octava
III Mixtur
II Cymbeln
III Cornett (from c1)

Oberwerk
8′ Gedackt
4′ Rohrflöte
3′ Nasat
2′ Principal
2′ Waldflöte
1′ Sifflöte
11⁄3′ Quinte
II Cymbeln

Pedal
16′ Sub-Baß
16′ Posanenbaß
8′ Trompete

Tremulant
Shove coupler II/I
Pedal coupler I/P
Manual compass C, D–c3
Pedal compass C, D–c1

Choir pitch: a = 468 Hz
Modified meantone

Dresden-Loschwitz church
The lessons learned in Langhennersdorf would prove helpful in designing the 1997 organ for a church in the outlying regions of Dresden-Loschwitz. The organ was conceived as a large one-manual and pedal instrument that would combine the typical stops of Silbermann with other 18th-century Saxon builders in one division, but some stops are also playable on a second manual. The building, virtually destroyed in the 1945 Blitz by an errant bomb, has been restored with spectacular but simple beauty. The church—with its historic altar rescued and restored from the Sophienkirche, where Bach played two recitals (1825 and 1731), and where his son Wilhelm Friedemann was organist (1733–1746)—has its organ sitting center stage in the second gallery.
The impact of this small instrument is remarkable and a joy to hear. Just a day after playing and listening to the impressive Silbermann-Hildebrandt (III/47, 1755) at Dresden’s Hofkirche and the imposing new Kern at the Frauenkirche (IV/67, 2006), the sound of this little organ in the suburb of Dresden-Loschwitz moved 45 American organists last September to spontaneous smiles of delight and satisfaction. The stunning immediacy of the sound combined with the brilliance of the ensemble and the colors of individual stops was a joy to hear.
And then listening to Wegscheider himself—on how Silbermann swept into this part of Germany with the fresh bold sounds of France and dominated organbuilding, on the speech and design of his pipework, and clarifying differences of temperament in the area—was an informative revelation. The man has a large presence, an expansive expression of speech, and in his eyes the gleam of an inspired creator, all reflected in his restorations and new designs.

Dresden-Loschwitz:
Loschwitz Church10
1997 Wegscheider II+P/20

Manual I
16′ Bordun
8′ Principal
8′ Gedackt
8′ Flauto traverso
8′ Viola di Gamba
4′ Octave
4′ Rohrflöte
4′ Flauto amabile
3′ Nasat
2′ Octave
2′ Flöte
13⁄5′ Tertia
1′ Flageolet
III Cornett (from g)
III Mixtur

Manual II (stops from I)
16′ Bordun
8′ Gedackt
8′ Flauto traverso
8′ Viola di Gamba
4′ Rohrflöte
4′ Flauto amabile
3′ Nasat
2′ Flöte
13⁄5′ Tertia

Pedal
16′ Bordun
8′ Octavbaß
8′ Violonbaß
4′ Octavbaß
16′ Posaune

Tremulant
Manual shove coupler
Pedal couplers I/P, II/P

Manual compass C–e3
Pedal compass C–e
Pitch: a = 440 Hz
Tuning: modified Valotti
Wind pressure: 70 mm

Houston, Christ the King Lutheran Church
Wegscheider has been involved in several “Bach organs.” The first was in collaboration with the Noack Organ Company at Christ Lutheran Church in Houston, where he served as co-designer.

Christ the King Lutheran Church, Houston
Builder: Noack Organ Company, 1995
Co-designer: Kristian Wegscheider II+P/30

Hauptwerk
16′ Bordun
8′ Principal
8′ Viola di Gamba
8′ Rohrflöte
4′ Octava
4′ Spitzflöte
22⁄3′ Quinta
2′ Octava
III Mixtur
II Cimbel
IIII Cornet
8′ Trompete
8′ Vox Humana

Oberwerk
8′ Gedackt
8′ Quintadena
4′ Principal
4′ Rohrflöte
22⁄3′ Nasat
2′ Octava
2′ Waldflöte
13⁄5′ Terz
11⁄3′ Quinta
1′ Sifflet
8′ Krummhorn

Pedal
16′ Principal Bass
16′ Subbass
8′ Octaven Bass
4′ Octava
16′ Posaunen
8′ Trompete

The organ at Christ the King Church follows the example of Hildebrandt, thus adding a Bach organ of a new dimension on the North American continent.
Fritz Noack and the Noack Organ Company were selected to design and build the organ. Noack is an American builder born and trained in Germany and uniquely situated to bridge the Saxon past and the Texan present. Kristian Wegscheider of Dresden, restorer of important Silbermann organs, accepted appointment as a design consultant; Reinhard Schaebitz of Dresden, voicer in the restorations, assisted in the voicing; and most of the metal pipes were built near Dresden in the workshop of Günter Lau. The result is a wonderful instrument which not surprisingly, but quite remarkably, evokes the look, feel, and sound of an 18th-century Saxon organ. One can imagine Bach’s walking in, sitting down without missing a beat and, as was his custom, pulling all of the stops to see whether or not the instrument has “good lungs.”
This Bach Organ possesses attributes commonly found in organs built today in historical style—tracker action; mechanical stop action; keys suspended below the pipe chests; a flexible wind supply provided by bellows; flat rather than radiating pedalboard; narrower, shorter manual keys; no pistons or combinations; and tuning in a historic temperament. The Saxon style imposes a series of additional design characteristics. The entire organ is housed in one case, rather than in compartments for each division according to the Werkprinzip; the case design and beautifully executed carvings employ 18th-century Saxon conventions; and the case is built of pine and painted (blue-green, red, and gold leaf). The Oberwerk to Hauptwerk coupler is activated by shoving the Oberwerk manual forward, and the Oberwerk does not couple to the Pedal. The pipe scalings are taken from Hildebrandt’s, and the principal pipes have a high tin content rather than lead.11

Stuttgart, Musikhochschule
Another “Bach organ” was built by Wegscheider for the Musikhochschule in Stuttgart, which has a large collection of historic prototypes. One can see an overview at <http://www.mh-stuttgart.de/studium/orgel/ueberblick/&gt;.

Stuttgart: State University of Music and Performing Arts
2006 Wegscheider
II+P/21

Hauptwerk
8′ Principal
8′ Rohrflöte
8′ Viola di Gamba
8′ Quintadena
4′ Octave
3′ Quinte
2′ Octave
2′ Terz (from 2′) [listed as 2′ but actually 13⁄5′]
III Mixtur
8′ Trompete

Positiv
8′ Gedackt
4′ Spitzflöte
4′ Flauto dolce
2′ Gemshorn
II Cymbal
8′ Vox Humana

Pedal
16′ Subbass
8′ Principalbass
4′ Octave
16′ Posaunebass
8′ Trompettenbass
Manual compass: C, D–d3
Pedal compass: C, D–f
Pitch: a1 = 466 Hz
Tuning: Modified Pythagorean

In the winter 2005–06 issue of Spektrum, Prof. Jürgen Essl writes:

In the fall of 2006 organ music of Bach will ring out. Then the long-anticipated “Bach organ” will supplement the university’s instrument collection. The Dresden organ builder, Kristian Wegscheider, received the commission to build an organ of 21 stops on two manuals and pedal according to 18th-century Thuringian and Saxon models. It is intended to be the ideal instrument for presenting Bach’s organ music with its choice of stops, its style of construction, its keyboard range, its speech and intonation.
Kristian Wegscheider is an undisputed expert in this area, and it would be hard to find a more first-class organ. Naturally there is no absolute “Bach Organ.” Johann Sebastian Bach, as is well known, played on many organs and was frequently active as consultant and examiner. The composition of the organ is therefore also no copy of an existing historical instrument, but an approximation of the Bach sound world in a variety of ways. The new organ is based on Bach’s expert opinion of existing instruments of similar 18th-century size, e.g., (Gottfried) Silbermann and Trost, on the compositional characteristics of his organ music, the restoration experience of the organbuilder and last but not least on the size of the room.12

Essl added in an e-mail to the author, “Indeed there were a large number of special problems for which Kristian had a good solution and fought hard to get the right results.”

Freiberg, Petrikirche
Another recent collaboration, this time with Jehmlich, was the restoration of Silbermann’s largest two-manual organ, at the Petrikirche in Freiberg, completed and rededicated in July 2007.13 It is an instrument with pizazz, brilliance, and clarity, while individual stops retain character and color. It also happens that the best CD that effectively reflects Wegscheider’s work is a recent release of a recording at the Petrikirche on the Syrius label, Johann Sebastian Bach, Vol. 4, with works from the early Weimar period played with verve, imagination, and excitement by Helga Schauerte (Syrius 141433, €22.00; <[email protected]>; the Organ Historical Society carries other recordings by Schauerte).

Freiberg: Petrikirche
1735 Silbermann
1959, 1993/94 Jehmlich Brothers
2006–07 Wegscheider, together with Jehmlich Orgelbau
II+P/32

Hauptwerk
16′ Principal
8′ Octav Principal
8′ Viol di Gamba
8′ Rohr-Flöte
4′ Octava
4′ Spitz-Flöte
3′ Qvinta
2′ Octava
2′ Tertia (from 2′) [listed as 2′ but actually 13⁄5′]
IV Cornet (from c1)
IV Mixtur
III Cymbel
8′ Trompette
16′ Fachott

Oberwerk
16′ Qvinta dena
8′ Principal
8′ Gedackts
8′ Qvinta dena
4′ Octava
4′ Rohr-Flöte
3′ Nassat
2′ Octava
11⁄3′ Qvinta
1′ Sufflöt
Sechst Qvint Altra (4⁄5′, 13⁄5′ from c1)
III Mixtur
8′ Vox humana

Pedal
32′ Groß-Untersatz
16′ Principal Bass
8′ Octaven Bass
16′ Posaune
8′ Trompete
Tremulant
Manual compass: C, D–c3
Pedal compass: C, D–c1
Manual coupler II/I
Pedal coupler P/I
Tuning: 462.5 Hz
Temperament: Neidhardt II
(for a small city), 1732

In summary, restorations include organs by:
Gottfried Silbermann
Niederschöna, 1715/1993, I/14
Bremen Cathedral, 1734/1994, I/8
Jacobikirche, Freiberg, 1717/1995/2006, II/20
Reinhardtsgrimma, 1731/1997, II/20
Tiefenau, 1725/1997, I/9
Dresden Cathedral, 1755/2002, III/47, jointly with Jehmlich Orgelbau
Petrikirche, Freiberg, 1735/2007, II/32, jointly with Jehmlich Orgelbau

Zacharias Hildebrandt
Langhennersdorf, 1722/1996, II/21

Friedrich Ladegast
Biederitz, 1868/1997, II/12
Hohenmölsen, 1851/1998, II/24
Merseburg Cathedral, 1855/1866/2003, IV, 84, joint with Eule/Bautzen and Scheffler, Frankfurt/Oder
Pomssen Wehrkirche, 1671/2000/2007, 1/13

Wegscheider’s firm has built to date thirty new organs including:
Silbermann Museum, Frauenstein, copy of Bremen positive, 1994, I/8
Güstrow Cathedral, 1996, I/15 registers with bass drums, bells, cymbelstern, 2 cuckoos, drum, nightingale
Dresden–Loschwitz, 1996, II/20
Bremen Cathedral, 2002, I/8
Cologne–Michaelshoven, 2003, II/ 28 (in the style of Silbermann/Hildebrandt)
Stuttgart, Musikhochschule, 2006/2007, II/21, Bach Organ
Sacrow-Potsdam, Heilandskirche, 2008/ 2009, II/17 registers
Current work includes:
Fritzsche-Treutmann-Organ in Harbke (restoration in cooperation with Dutschke-Orgelbau), completed 12/07 and dedicated 5/08
Altarpositiv, Kreuzkirche in Dresden, dedicated 5/08
Stellwagen Organ in Stralsund St. Marien (1659).

 

A New Silbermann for Leipzig?

"Out of Love for This Famous Place--Proposal for a New Organ for St. Paul's Church"

Ullrich Böhme, Organist, St. Thomas Church, translated by Joel H. Kuznik

Ullrich Böhme was born in Saxony, and his interest in the organ was inspired by the baroque organ in his home church in the village of Rothenkirchen. He studied at the Church Music School in Dresden and later at the Leipzig College of Music. After passing his state exam, he served as cantor and organist in Chemnitz, but in 1985, the 300th anniversary year of Bach's birth, he was chosen from many applicants to become the organist at St. Thomas Church, Leipzig. He has toured through Europe, North America, and Japan, and he also serves as professor at the Felix Mendelssohn College of Music and Theater in Leipzig. In 2000 he made a recording on the New Bach Organ at St. Thomas, which is available through OHS.

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Prelude:

When the City Council of Leipzig in 1723 named Johann
Sebastian Bach Cantor and Director of Music, he was given responsibility for
the music of four churches: St. Thomas, St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and the New
Church. St. Thomas was restored over a ten-year period and rededicated in 2000
on the 250th anniversary of Bach's death. St. Nicholas just finished a
renovation and will dedicate a restored and enlarged Ladegast organ in October.
St. Peter was torn down in 1886, and the New Church (later known as St. Matthew)
was destroyed in the bombing of World War II.

Bach also had responsibilities at St. Paul's or the
University Church during festival days and during fair periods with the
Collegium Musicum. St. Paul's was destroyed on May 30, 1968 by the GDR.
It was literally blown up to make way for the Karl Marx University, a hulking
concrete eyesore that sits at the edge of the Augustus Platz overlooking the
Gewandhaus and Opera House. Before and after pictures on the 25th anniversary
of this travesty appeared on the front page of the "Leipziger
Volkszeitung" in 2003 during the Bach Festival. The images were stunning
and disturbing. Now history is about to take a new course and so Ullrich
Böhme writes:

The decision to construct a new building for the University
of Leipzig is good news. The design by the Dutch architect, Erick van Egeraat,
should become a reality in the near future. Central to van Egeraat's
design for the building complex is St. Paul's Church. From the outside
the building will have a distinctively modern façade, but inside the
design will draw heavily on the configuration of the old hall churches with
their late Gothic webbed arches, very much like St. Thomas Church.

The university administration has decided that the church or
"aula" (auditorium) should have an organ. But how should one
envision this instrument?

The University of Leipzig numbers among the oldest German
universities and looks back on a 600-year history. Certainly no ordinary organ,
such as we too often find in many churches and concert halls, should be built
here. On the contrary, it should be a very special instrument that uniquely
relates to the tradition and history of this site.

Historically the old St. Paul's Church appears to have
had little luck with its organs. The earliest organ can be traced back to the
15th century, which after a renovation in 1528 had a specification of 15 stops
with its placement believed to have been on the south wall. In the 17th century
it is reported that there were many unsuccessful attempts to restore this
instrument by such famous organ builders as Heinrich and Esaias Compenius.

In the years 1711 to 1716 the Leipzig organ builder, Johann
Scheibe, built a 48-stop organ with three manuals and pedal using parts from
the old organ. The approval and recommendation to accept the organ was made by
J.S. Bach, who certified that the organ builder indeed had constructed the
organ "with good diligence." And, as Bach noted, the organ, except
for several limitations and problems, otherwise sounded fine. On the other
hand, already in 1741 Johann Andreas Silbermann (1712-1783) wrote a very
negative assessment of this organ.

The next instrument at St. Paul's was made by Johann
Gottlob Mende (1787-1850) and dates from 1844. Mende's preserved
instrument was recognized for its solid workmanship, and yet the highly
respected Prof. Heinrich Magirius, author and historical curator, wrote in 1995
that this organ at St. Paul's was "not much good."

In the 19th and 20th centuries the organ builders Friedrich
Ladegast, Julius and Johannes Jahn, and Hermann Eule worked on the organ at St.
Paul's. In the 1950s the instrument was provided with electric action,
but recordings from this period give the impression that the work was not of
high quality.

At the beginning of the 18th century a truly breathtaking
sensation took place in the organ history of the University of Leipzig.
Gottfried Silbermann (1683-1753), regarded by many to be the most
significant and famous organ builder of all time, created an organ proposal for
St. Paul's.

Beginning in 1702 Gottfried Silbermann learned the craft of
organ building from his older brother, Andreas, in Strasbourg, Alsace, and
built several organs there with him. In 1710 Gottfried Silbermann returned to
Saxony to establish his livelihood as an organ builder in Germany.

In the same year he became acquainted with the most
important musical personality of Leipzig at that time, Johannes Kuhnau
(1660-1722), who was Cantor at St. Thomas and the University Music
Director. Kuhnau apparently recognized the extraordinary talent of this young
organ builder, for in a letter he praised Silbermann's
"quintessential mathematical and mechanical knowledge of organ
building." He called Silbermann's attention to the planned project
at St. Paul's and recommended him to the university.

Silbermann was prepared for the meeting before the
Professors' Council on November 20, 1710 by the University Rector
himself, and, as a result of his presentation, Silbermann was given the
assignment to "examine" the old, defective organ at St.
Paul's and "to make a proposal for building a (new) organ."

The university archive has preserved two of
Silbermann's handwritten and signed documents, both dated on the 27th of
November, 1710. The first is addressed to the Magnificae Academiae Rector
("Magnificent Rector of the School") and contains a detailed
examination of the old organ. In this report Silbermann establishes in graphic
detail why he "regrets that the problems of the organ are such that
continuing repairs of the instrument could not produce results to the
satisfaction of the university."

Indeed he would discourage "patching up the old
work" and recommends to the university "providing a completely new
organ according to the enclosed specification of 43 stops, some of which have
not been known in Germany, but have enjoyed the greatest admiration in France
for their inherently charming sound."

The second document contains a detailed specification of a
large organ with 44 stops on three manuals and pedal (University of Leipzig
Archives, Signatur II / III No. 6 / Litt. B / Sect. II, Bl. 15, 16). (See box
page 25)

Unfortunately, the assignment for the organ was not given to
Gottfried Silbermann, but to Johann Scheibe instead. It was surely difficult
for those who were accountable to the university at the time to judge whether
the young organ builder from Freiberg was a genius or a braggart endowed with
exaggerated self-confidence. For in Germany he could not show a single completed
organ.

A few years later, however, it was clear that an error in
judgment had been made. Silbermann was to build about 45 organs in Middle
Germany, of which 32 are preserved to this day. His instruments stand in little
village churches with dry acoustics and in cathedrals with long reverberation.

Everywhere his organs sound wonderful and have an
indescribable effect on every hearer. Already in his own lifetime Silbermann
attained a legendary fame, which throughout the centuries to our own day has
lost none of its luster, even with all the changes in musical taste.

If, in fact, Silbermann had built the organ at St.
Paul's back then in 1710, then many things in Leipzig's history
would have turned out quite differently. To build what could have been one of
his greatest works he would have established an organ workshop in Leipzig.
Perhaps he would have remained in Leipzig, and the city and its surroundings
would have the number of Silbermann organs that we now find in Freiberg and
that region.

And--perhaps a Silbermann organ at St. Paul's
would have inspired Johann Sebastian Bach, who later became Thomascantor in
1723, to produce even more magnificent organ compositions than we now have.
Ultimately there is a high probability that the GDR authorities in 1968 would not
have dared to demolish a church which featured a great Silbermann organ.

All these considerations lead one to the idea that after 300
years we should now consider realizing Gottfried Silbermann's organ
proposal for St. Paul's Church/Aula. The construction of a new university
building therefore provides a unique opportunity. The new St. Paul's
could have a beautiful sounding instrument full of character, which would
attract organ lovers from all the over the world. Building such an organ now
creates an opportunity to realize the beautiful sound of a historic instrument,
that the Leipzig region would be enriched with heretofore unavailable colors.

The scientific discussion that would ensue with building an
18th-century instrument would be appropriate for a university organ project. It
would be similar to the impressive reconstruction of a North German Baroque
organ inspired by Arp Schnitger (1648-1719) undertaken by the University
of Göteborg's Organ Art Center (GOArt) and completed in 2000 in the
Örgryte New Church. Silbermann's organ in the 1714 Freiberg
Cathedral--many experts regard it his most beautiful work--provides
an original of the same period for a study course in the art of his organ
building.

Finally, the City of Leipzig could deliberately take a
different approach than the authorities of Dresden's Frauenkirche, who
have spent all these years and money restoring the church stone by stone, but
who have decided against the reconstruction of a Silbermann organ, a decision
deplored by numerous well-known organ experts.

The organ case of the Dresden Frauenkirche was designed by
the church's chief architect, George Bähr. Certainly an architect
such as Erick van Egeraat with his ingenuity and stature could create a truly
beautiful organ case, whether classical or modern, for a Silbermann organ in
Leipzig.

In reconstructing this 1710 Silbermann organ Leipzig and the
university would be expressing its history, realizing its destiny and
fulfilling a great promise for the future.

Postlude:

Ullrich Böhme's title "Out of Love for This
Famous Place" was inspired by Silbermann's words from the last
paragraph of his proposal.

You can see Erick van Egeraat's conception of the
University of Leipzig project for St. Paul's by going to their website,
<www.eea-architects.com&gt;. Click on Projects, then Public, and then
University of Leipzig. Note that Silbermann did not design or build his own
casework, but had this work done by local craftsmen.

Bach did have a relationship with Gottfried Silbermann. In
fact, he played recitals on two of Silbermann's instruments in
Dresden--at St. Sophia's (Sophienkirche) in 1731 where William
Friedemann later became organist and at the Frauenkirche in 1736 on a new
three-manual. Both organs were destroyed in the bombing of 1945, but the
Frauenkirche is now scheduled for rededication in 2006. In 1746 Bach and
Silbermann were the examiners of Zacharias Hildebrandt's organ at St.
Wenzel's Church in Naumburg.

Recordings have been made of all the Silbermann organs,
including the Freiberg Cathedral, and are available from the Organ Historical
Society at <www.ohscatalog.org&gt;. Take special note of Querstand's
eight-volume CD collection of all his organs. Go to "Search," enter
Silbermann and click.

For discussions on the decision by the Dresden Frauenkirche
not to reconstruct the Silbermann organ of 43 stops, but instead to install a
larger, modern organ of 65 stops by Daniel Kern of Strasbourg, do a Google
search for "Silbermann Frauenkirche Dresden" for websites and
possible translation of German texts.

French Organ Music Seminar 2001

Alsace Week, July 10-14, 2001

by Kay McAfee

Kay McAfee is professor of organ and music history at Henderson State University in Arkadelphia, Arkansas, where she also serves as organist for First United Methodist Church.

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For four days, the group would travel the length and breadth of this beautiful region rich in agriculture and vineyards, nestled in the Rhine valley between the French Vosges mountains and the Rhine river. Its villages and towns, between Mulhouse in the south, Strasbourg in the north, and Colmar at the center, boast over one thousand organs in its many lovely churches.

 

Predigerkirche, Basel

Upon arrival in Mulhouse, Marie Louise Langlais and Sylvie Mallet directed everyone across the border into Basel, Switzerland to visit two churches. We arrived at the Predigerkirche (Catholic) where Mme. Langlais introduced Emmanuel Le Divellec and Brigitte Salvisberg, young husband and wife who are both former students of Mme. Langlais. Divellec is organist of the French church in Bern and teaches at the Bern Conservatory. He told of the church, which originally housed a 13th-century Dominican monastery on the site. The organ was built by Johann Andreas Silbermann in 1766. It had one manual and 14 or 16 stops. Silbermann built a Rückpositiv in 1768, bringing the total to 28 stops.

In 1875 the instrument was enlarged, but it became difficult to play and was neglected until 1974. The firm of Metzler reconstructed the original organ in 1978, adding a flute 4' and larigot to the Positiv and prestant and fourniture to the Pedal. Tuning is Werckmeister, and the disposition is French "with a German accent." Divellec played several parts of the Guilain 2nd Suite: Plein jeu, Tierce en taille, Cromorne en taille, Basse de trompette, Cromorne and Flûtes; and Caprice sur les Grand Jeu from the Clérambault 2nd Suite. Participants were given playing time.

Then Brigitte Salvisberg discussed the choir organ which is mounted above the choir on the north side. At the time of the restoration of the church in 1975, an imprint of the original organ was found on the wall. The contract from a Johannes Tugy and a description of this organ from 1487-1493 were also found. In 1985, the Netherlands builder Bernhard Edskes reconstructed the instrument of two manuals with short compass. Manual I has principal, gedeckt, octave 4' and 2' and a hornle, which is a sesquialtera-type stop. The second manual contains a regal and a 4' and 2'. Salvisberg played O dulcis Maria by Hofhaimer, three Renaissance dances by Hans Neusiedler, and the "Fortuna" variations by Scheidt.

For participants, the change from the large cathedral churches of Paris, Caen, and Chartres during the previous week of the seminar was striking and refreshing. Most of the churches we visited here seat from 200 to 800 people.

St. Josephkirche

Next we were transported to St. Josephkirche to hear an exquisite 1904 instrument built by the firm of Kuhn. Organist Willy Kenz ushered us into the 1902 neo-Baroque church, where the membership has been multicultural. Near the end of the 19th century, Catholic immigrants from Germany and Italy moved to Basel to work, and this was their church. The organ is of 43 stops of three manuals and is a historic treasure. Manual I has a 16' bourdon, four 8' stops including gemshorn, a cornet, flûte harmonique 4', octav 4' and 2', quint, mixture, and trompete. Manual II has a 16' nachthorn, geigen, flute, viola, dolce, quintaton, gemshorn, transverse flute 4', waldflöte 2', sesquialtera, zimbel, and English horn. The Swell contains gedeckt 16' and 8', two strings and a voix celeste, flute and string 4', plein jeu, flute 2', oboe, and schalmei. The Pedal has four 16' stops, two 8', and posaune 16'. In 1934 four stops were added, and in 1992 the Kuhn firm rebuilt the instrument. The tuning is low: A=435.

In this resonant room, the music is stunning. The Swell box is very effective, and the organ is perfect for German Romantic music. Kenz played a Kodály Introit, "Andante" from Mendelssohn's 6th sonata, Karg-Elert's Nun danket alle Gott, and Brahms' Schmücke dich. Participants eagerly climbed to the rear gallery to play. Afterwards, the church staff prepared a fine meal for all.

Elisabethkirche

The evening brought a concert at the Elisabethkirche, a Protestant church. The organ is from 1861 by the Belgian firm of Merklin, which was a rival of Cavaillé-Coll. Originally of two manuals (with a third of only one stop) and 29 stops, the present case is the original one of 1864. The primary manual had 16' and 8' principals, salicional, octav and flöte 4', 22/3', and cornett 8'. The second manual had only an 8' gedeckt. Manual III featured flute 16' and two 8' flutes, flute 4', cymbel 1', and oboe. The Pedal had three 16' and two 8' stops. The firm of Zimmermann added four new stops in 1899 and rebuilt the organ in 1913. Theodor Kuhn replaced the Merklin reeds in 1937. It is definitely a French instrument.

Two of Mme. Langlais's former students, Emmanuel Le Divellec and Suzanne Kern, demonstrated the organ. Kern, who studied with Scheidegger, Bovet, and Marie-Louise and Jean Langlais, is the current organist of the church. She played the 4th Sonata of Mendelssohn, Chant de Fleur from Prière to the Virgin by Florentz, and Tournemire improvisation on "Victimae paschali laudes." Divellec played the Franck Cantabile, Alain Le jardin suspenu (with lovely strings and very effective pp-ppp dynamics), and Pièce solennelle by Jacques Ibert.

Saint-Jean, Mulhouse

The next day the group traveled to Mulhouse to the Protestant Saint-Jean Temple. This is a special place for Marie-Louise Langlais as it was her first professional appointment. The organ is an Alfred Kern (1972) reconstruction of a 1766 Johann-Andreas Silbermann organ of three manuals. The beautiful case is from the 18th-century instrument. The church is small, seating perhaps 150 people. The Rückpositiv is very close to the pew aisles which face the pulpit and are perpendicular to the organ. There are 26 stops, with mutations on each manual--Grand Orgue, Echo, and Positiv de dos.

Sylvie Mallet demonstrated the solo stops of the organ by playing a Tierce en taille, the beautiful positiv cromorne, an 8' and 22/3' (there is a nasard on each manual), the plein jeu, and the reeds and cornet, with an 8' and 1' echo. She demonstrated the tremolo by playing the Grand Orgue vox humana, montre 8', and Positiv 8' and 1'. When the organ was dedicated in 1972, Jean Langlais wrote and played his Suite Baroque for the occasion. The organ plays both French and German music well. Participants played Langlais, Bach, and Soler.

Saint-Étienne

The Gothic-style Catholic church of Saint-Étienne was a short walk away. The organ is a late-period Cavaillé-Coll with a neo-Baroque Positiv by Roeth-inger. The reeds of the Swell are as powerful as at Saint-Ouen and Saint-Étienne in Caen. Several participants played pieces which demonstrated the various colors of the organ.

Organ building in Alsace

Daniel Roth, a native of Mulhouse in Alsace, assumed leadership as our guide into the small towns and villages of Alsace. He was accompanied by Pierre Chevreau, organist at Saint-Martin in Masevaux. Within the 170 km of the wine route are nestled 100 towns. All of the instruments the group was privileged to hear and play represent the combination of German and French influence in organbuilding. Rheinberger, Buxtehude, and Bach sound well as does the music of the 18th-century French Classical composers.

The first stop was the little village of Oltingue and the Church of Saint Martin. M. Roth gave a historical background of the region and the import of its history upon the development of organ building in Alsace. Occupied by the Romans in 58 B.C., Alsace eventually came under the rule of the Allemandes (407 A.D.) and the Holy Roman Empire (870 A.D.). At that time the Vosges mountains formed the French border with Germany and Switzerland. The French desired to stretch the border to the Rhine, and finally took the land in 1648. In 1870 Alsace again came under German rule. After WWI, France again ruled. In 1939 the Nazis captured Alsace, and after WWII it again became part of France. In Strasbourg, the organ builder Edmund Roethinger (1866- 1953) saw Alsace change nationalities four times. Alsatian culture has taken the best from the culture of France and Germany. It is true also with organ building. Alsatians demonstrate a great love of music and of the organ.

In 1792 Alsace listed 300 organs. In 1844, the number had doubled to 600, and after 1980, 1004 instruments, many of them historically significant, were to be found in this small region. In the 1870s, when Alsace was under German rule, there were many active German organ builders, but Alsatians resisted the German tonal ideal--a hard sound, loud mixtures, and high wind pressures. At the end of the 19th and in the early 20th century, there was an Alsatian organ reform, with the desire being to rediscover the organs of Silbermann. The Alsatian Albert Schweitzer was important in this movement. Schweitzer loved French organs, and this was revealed especially in his trips to Paris to study the instruments of Cavaillé-Coll.

This movement was not the Orgelbewegung, which came later and was even more radical. Many Romantic organs were destroyed in the zeal to build organs with little fundamental tone, high-pitched mixtures, and absence of gambas. The French manifestation of this revolution occurred partially in the Neo-Classical movement of the 1930s.

In the 1950s, there was a Baroque-reform movement in Alsace, which reacted against the Neo-Classical movement in other parts of France. Alfred Kern's 1963 instrument at Saint-Séverin in Paris is an example of a tonal design from this reform movement. Kern's family were builders from Strasbourg in Alsace. The participants in this movement sought a better understanding of the old instruments and to make possible the playing of Bach and other German music as well as Classical French music. The 1970s then saw the revival of interest in the Romantic organs.

Saint-Martin, Oltingue

The Oltingue church of Saint Martin is of neo-Baroque style. The organ was built in 1843 by Joseph (1795-1857) and Claude (1803-1874) Callinet, sons of François Callinet (1754-1820) who began the family business. The organ was cleaned in 1941, and in 1978 Gaston Kern of Strasbourg rebuilt the façade pipes and restored the blending of the French and German influences of Callinet. It features a bourdon 16', montre 8', and sifflet 1', with fourniture, a beautiful cornet, and trompette 8' and clairon 4' in the Grand Orgue. The Positiv has bourdon 8', flûte 8', a flûte 4' which plays at 8' in the lower range, and a basson-hautbois which is a free reed. There is also a gamba (Roth noted that Silbermann did not build gambas). The ophicleide in the pedal is also a free reed, which Roth said makes "an odd noise." Roth improvised for us and then participants were able to play.

Église de Masevaux

We traveled east to Masevaux to visit the church of our co-host, Pierre Chevreau. Église de Masevaux (St. Martin) is a modern building, as the previous building with its Callinet organ burned in 1966. Alfred Kern built the gallery organ in 1975. It has 40 stops distributed over four manuals and a dramatic case which spreads completely across the wide gallery. The disposition is Grand Orgue with 16', 8' montre, flûte 4', prestant, gemshorn 2', cornet, fourniture, cymbale, trompette, and clarion. The Oberwerk has flûtes 8', 4', 2', larigot, cymbale and chalumeau. The Echo (42 notes) has flûtes 8' and 4', cornet and voix humaine (the only stop that is enclosed). The Positif de dos has viole and bourdon, flûte 4', prestant, 22/3', 13/5', 2', 1', fourniture, cromorne, and voix humaine. The Pedal includes flûtes 16', 8', prestant, cor de nuit 2', fourniture, posaune 16', trompette, and cornet 2'. There is also a two-manual choir organ by Curt Schwenkedel (1972) which of the German Baroque style. It features brilliant mixtures which are loud and harsh.

Pierre Chevreau is artistic director for an international organ festival here. 2001 was the 25th year for the event, with recitals during July, August, and September.

Ebersmünster

We traveled north to Ebersmünster, a town that is east of the north-south motorway and still in the valley. On the way we saw high in the hills to the West Koenigsburg Castle and Chateau de Kentsheim, two imposing structures that can be seen from great distances and which complement the picturesque scenery. Across from the church, we caught sight of one of the many man-made stork nests (occupied with parents and chicks) for which Alsace is famous. The towers of this Baroque church crown a beautifully-proportioned building. Once a Benedictine abbey, the choir was completed in the 17th century. In 1709 the towers were added. Nave and transepts were finished 1725-27, and in 1730-73, Andreas Silbermann placed the organ in the west gallery; the organ case is spectacularly beautiful. Silbermann (1678-1734) established the Strasbourg firm and after studying his craft with Thierry in Paris, settled in Alsace. His sons Gott-fried (1683-1753) and Johann Andreas (1717-1766) carried on, but Gottfried moved back to Saxony.

The specification is almost French Classical. Only the bombarde 16' in the Pedal is different. This was added to French instruments in the late 18th century and only to those which were the largest. The Pedal originally had flûtes 8' and 4' with trompette and clarion. The clarion was added in 1732, as was the Swell trompette. Today the organ is of 29 stops, three manuals with Echo (25 notes), Positif de dos, and Grand Orgue (each with 49 notes). In 1782, Johann Hosias Silbermann added a new pedalboard and bellows. In 1857, Martin Wetzel, a Strasbourg builder, added the bombarde. A cleaning was done in 1921, and in 1939 Roethinger added another new pedalboard, altered the voicing, and changed the bombarde and trompette. In 1998-2000, a complete restoration was undertaken in an attempt to restore the Silbermann voicing.

Protestant Temple, Barr

We journeyed next across the valley and into the foothills of the Vosges mountains to one of the wine villages, Barr, where we arrived at the Protestant Temple, which is Lutheran--unusual because most of the Protestant churches here are Calvinist. There is no nave and no transepts. The pulpit is the focal point of the church with pews arranged in front and on the sides. The church was built in 1852, but the tower is from the 12th century and was restored and made higher in the 15th century.

The first organ here was placed by the Silbermann family in 1739. The present organ, from 1852, is exceptionally large for the building. It was built by Stierh, a family of organists first headed by the father and then by his three sons: Joseph (1792-1867), Ferdinand (1803-1872), and Savier (1806- 1873). The firm added an associate--Mockers--and together they placed this instrument. There are four manuals: Positif de dos, Grand orgue, Echo expressif, and Grand Orgue (suite)--trompette and clairon only. There are three 16' stops and three 4' stops in the G.O. The fugara 4' is a German gamba. The Pedal features a wooden 16' basson and violincello 8'. The Positif has a cor des alpes 8' which is a conical reed. The voix celeste 4' is not a celeste but only a narrow-scaled string stop. The Echo, under expression, was very unusual for that time. It contains a basson-hautbois and voix humaine. There were restorations in 1895, 1924, and 1948. In 1977, Gaston Kern undertook the last restoration. M. Roth demonstrated the gambas 16', 8', and 4' of the G.O., the montre 8', and the plenum and reeds, and then  played a passacaglia by Rheinberger (Sonata #8). Then participants were allowed to try the organ.

Saint Martin, Erstein

We traveled back into the valley, across the motorway, and arrived at Erstein and the Romanesque-style church of Saint Martin. Welcoming us was an official of the regional council as well as a representative of the mayor's office. The organ is a historic monument. In 1905, there was creation of a separation of church and state in France. All of the organs now belong to the towns. This one, recently restored, is under the auspices of a regional council.

The organ of 1914 was built by Edmond-Alexandre Roethinger of Strasbourg. As with other instruments, its specification represents a combination of French and German traditions. The flûte of the Grand Orgue, the geigen principal of the Positiv, the principal 8' of the Swell, and the posaune of the Pedal are all under high wind pressure, which was typical of German organ building at the end of the 19th century. The stops are designated by the word "Starkton-" indicating their higher wind pressure. The bombarde and trompette of the swell are of French voicing. The harmonia aetherea of the swell is a 3-rank mixture of string pipes, and there is an unda maris on the Positif. The Récit and Positif are both under expression. This organ's 64 stops make it the largest instrument heard thus far in Alsace. There are seven 8' stops on the Grand orgue and Positif and eight 8' stops on the Récit.

M. Roth improvised and then demonstrated individual stops. The clarinet on the Positif is especially beautiful. He conducted a masterclass with Barbara Reid, Jill Hunt, and Angela Kraft Cross performing Franck, Pièce Héroïque; Dupré, B-major Prelude; and Widor, Allegro from Symphonie VI.

Saint-Thomas, Strasbourg

We traveled to Strasbourg for the last day, arriving first at Saint-Thomas Protestant cathedral, dating from 1740-41. The organ, over the entrance door, is by Johann-Andreas Silbermann. Its beautiful oak case is of wonderful proportions. The rounded central tower of the Grand Orgue is of unusual design. There is a matching rounded tower in the Positif de dos. The organ comprises three manuals and 31 stops and is tuned at low pitch, but in equal temperament. In 1790 a trumpet was added to the Echo manual, and in the 19th century Wetzel added some Romantic stops, including a salicional. More changes occurred in 1860. In 1979, Alfred Kern, a specialist in the aesthetic of Silbermann, restored the original, but he left the romantic stops in the Echo division. Albert Schweitzer established a tradition of playing an all-Bach recital each July 28, the anniversary of Bach's death. The tradition carries on today.

The Positif plenum, jeu de tierce, and cromorne are original Silbermann pipes as are those of the entire Grand Orgue and Pedal. The Echo division recalls the Romantic period. The only 16' flue in the Pedal is a soubasse. The montre of the Grand Orgue is especially beautiful and singing. French Classical music sounds well here, but so does Bach, Buxtehude, and the other German Baroque composers. M. Roth first improvised. Participants played such works as Buxtehude, Prelude, Fugue and Chaconne; Bach, G-minor Fantasie, D-minor Toccata, and chorale preludes Nun komm der Heiden Heiland and O mensch bewein. The tremolo is especially beautiful.

Notre-Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg

We proceeded to the great Notre-Dame Cathedral of Strasbourg. The church, begun in 1015, has a Romanesque choir from the 11th and 12th centuries. The Gothic nave is from 1275. The spire of the west façade was finished in 1439. The organ hangs high on the triforium gallery near the west entrance, about two bays away. Christoph Mantoux, Professor of organ at the Strasbourg Conservatory, played a French Classical suite. The vox humana is especially beautiful.

The opportunities afforded by the biennial British and French Organ Music Seminars are evident in both the number of people who return to them and to the growing diversity of participants. Not only do these events attract professional organists who desire to play the great instruments of England and France, but there are those who are self-taught aficionados of the organ and those of other professions who love the organ and its music. Investment brokers, art historians, physicians, and computer programmers are part of these groups. Organ historians among the participants provide excellent outlines ahead of the seminars chronicling the timelines of British and French organists, composers, builders, and British influence on American organ building. Organists of all levels of experience--beginners to professionals--are allowed equal access to the instruments and to gifts of the faculty.

In the Organ Lofts of Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Paris

Oberlin’s Organ Tour de France

Simon Thomas Jacobs
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Despite the best efforts of Winter Storm Hercules, all but one of our group of seventeen made it to Paris’s Charles de Gaulle Airport as scheduled on Friday, January 3. Once we had gathered our luggage, we headed off to our first point of interest: a cemetery . . . where else!?

The cemetery at Montparnasse is the final resting place of a number of notable figures from French history and culture. Among the graves we visited were those of Jean-Paul Sartre, Louis Vierne, César Franck, and the tombs of the Cavaillé-Coll, Saint-Saëns, and Guilmant families. Interestingly enough, while the map at the entrance to the cemetery (marking the burial locations of those considered worthy of listing) includes Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, César Franck, and Camille Saint-Saëns, Louis Vierne and Alexandre Guilmant were not listed. Fortunately, Professor James David Christie knew where they were and many a photograph was taken!

We then took the wonderful Train à Grande Vitesse (TGV)—France’s high-speed rail service—for a three-and-a-half-hour trip to Bordeaux where, after a glass (or two!) of wine, we rested in preparation for what would be a life-changing two weeks for all involved.

 

Bordeaux

The next morning, we rose early and made our way to the eleventh-century abbey of Sainte-Croix, home to the only remaining instrument of Dom Bedos, a monk and secretary of the abbey as well as a mathematician, clock builder, and author of the monumental treatise The Organ-Maker’s Art. We gathered in the large church as Professor Christie demonstrated the instrument with Louis Marchand’s Grand Dialogue in C. It was clear from the first few notes on the mighty reed chorus, the Grand Jeu, that this organ was to set the tone (no pun intended!) for our entire visit. It is impossible to describe just how powerful this instrument is—it must be heard to be believed. The entire space was filled with a raw brilliance supported by one of the finest acoustics I have ever experienced. Next we heard the instrument’s other “big” chorus—the Grand Plein Jeu—made up of foundations and mixtures. On this instrument the Grand Plein Jeu is built on a 32 foundation and its 23 ranks of mixtures produce thrilling and rich sound.

The original instrument was constructed in 1748; during the nineteenth century it was moved to the cathedral in Bordeaux and tonally romanticized, while the organ’s case remained in the abbey church, now fitted with the former cathedral organ. Thankfully, the organ was saved in the second half of the twentieth century and restored and returned to the abbey church, with Dom Bedos’s aforementioned treatise acting as an incredibly detailed guide as to what should be done. As part of this restoration, the red paint that then covered the case was stripped, initially so that the case could be repainted. In the process, the instrument’s original green was revealed along with the beautiful stop labeling at the console. As a result, we have today one of the finest and most aurally and visually beautiful organs in all of Europe, if not the world.

After hearing the instrument in the church, we made our way up to the large organ gallery, walking through the enormous blower room (where, before electricity, the instrument required seven people to pump it!), eventually arriving at the exquisite five-manual console: Positif de dos; Grand-Orgue; Bombarde; Récit; Echo. The Positif de dos and Grand-Orgue contain the majority of stops. The Bomdarde contains only two large reed stops—this was for practical reasons concerning the winding of the instrument. Nevertheless, the Bombarde can be coupled down to the Grand-Orgue to create an astonishing Grand Jeu chorus built on the 16 reed. This is neither common nor necessarily appropriate for a majority of the so-called French Classical repertoire, but used judiciously and in the right pieces, this registration creates one of the greatest sounds in all organ music.

Perhaps the most “alien” aspect of the French Classical organ is the Pédale division. Unlike its German or Dutch counterparts, the pedalboard and stops of a French Classical instrument are not designed for counterpoint, but to provide a bass part centered around an 8 flute pitch (with occasional 16 pitch added by use of manual couplers) or to play the cantus firmus on the 8 Trompette, accompanied by the Plein Jeu of the manuals. In the case of the Sainte-Croix Dom Bedos, the Pédale division has both flue and reed stops at 16 pitch as well, but this was by no means common. We all had some challenges negotiating the odd pedalboard at Sainte-Croix: not only was its design different from anything else we had ever encountered, its compass stretched down to F below the C where modern pedalboards stop. This meant that no note was where we thought it should be! That being said, the mighty 16 Pédale Bombarde extended down to low A, allowing Bach’s French-inspired Pièce d’orgue, BWV 572, with the usually unplayable low B in the middle section, to be played on this instrument. As with everything on this organ, the sound of these low reed notes was something to experience!

We were incredibly fortunate to spend the entire day and much of the evening with this wonderful instrument and were soon to discover that the organ’s uncompromising mechanical action and the church’s glorious acoustic could teach us a great deal about how to play—certainly something that would be a recurring theme throughout the trip. I should also mention that the food and wine in Bordeaux were exquisite, and I could not help but think of Julia Child—it was easy to see why she fell in love with French cuisine!

The next morning, a number of the group attended Sunday Mass at Sainte-Croix. Titular organist Paul Goussot, a winner of the improvisation prize at St. Albans in 2011, and the winner of the Haarlem International Organ Improvisation Competition in 2012, improvised brilliantly during the Mass. 

Then we took the train to the city of Toulouse, in southwest France, near the Spanish border. Toulouse is, without a doubt, one of the great organ “capitals” of the world, and we had four days to explore some of its treasures.

 

Toulouse

Following a wonderful supper of bread, cheese, foie gras, and “king’s cakes” (in honor of the Epiphany) at the home of Michel Bouvard, as well as a private fortepiano performance by Madame Yasuko Bouvard, we made our way to the stunning Romanesque Basilica of Saint-Sernin, where Professor Bouvard is titulaire. The organ, built in 1889, was among the last instruments of Aristide Cavaillé-Coll and, for many of us, the first Cavaillé-Coll we had ever encountered “in the flesh.” Although based in Paris for most of his professional career, Aristide Cavaillé-Coll was originally from Toulouse and came from a family of organ builders. From the age of twenty, he worked with his father; this included restoring a number of instruments in Spain. The Spanish influence can be seen in a number of Cavaillé-Coll’s instruments that make use of en chamade reeds, and Saint-Sernin is no exception.

Saint-Sernin is a vast church with an incredibly long nave extending into a choir that certainly had an influence on Cavaillé-Coll’s concept for the organ. There is one word to describe the tutti of the Saint-Sernin Cavaillé-Coll: TERRIFYING! The huge wall of sound produced was definitely intended to travel from the organ gallery to the high altar, and it does so with ease. That being said, Professor Bouvard treated us to a spectacular performance of César Franck’s Grand Pièce Symphonique in which we also heard the more lyrical side of this outstanding organ.

Every evening during our time in Toulouse, we had unfettered access to the organ in Saint-Sernin, which, while very different from the Dom Bedos in Bordeaux, also had a great deal to teach. Much of the time was spent adjusting to the large space, Barker-lever action, and a very heavy swell shoe! As was the case with nearly all the organs we played, “inflicting one’s self” was not an option—you had to listen, feel, and respond to what the instrument and room were telling you in order to achieve the most satisfying musical results. It was also huge fun to “let rip” on full organ, although after 11 p.m. the tutti had to be used sparingly owing to its audibility throughout most of the surrounding area.

While the name of Cavaillé-Coll is well known among organists throughout the world, the name of Théodore Puget is perhaps not quite so well known. . . but it should be! We encountered two instruments by the Toulouse-based organ builder in his native city: Notre Dame du Taur—Puget’s first large instrument in the city, inaugurated by Guilmant in 1880; and Notre Dame de la Dalbade, inaugurated by Widor in 1888. We were all in awe of these exceptionally fine instruments placed in churches with glorious acoustics. In contrast to the fiery directness of the Cavaillé-Coll in Saint-Sernin that bellows “I’m here,” the two Puget instruments enveloped the listener with a far warmer sound. While perfect for the music of the great French Romantic composers, it was unfortunate that none of us had brought along any Howells or Whitlock, which would work equally well. Sadly, Puget never built a major instrument in Paris owing to Cavaillé-Coll’s monopoly in that city.

We also spent time at the church of Saint-Pierre des Chartreux, home to a four-manual French Classical instrument dating from 1683, with rebuilds in 1783 and 1983. While more modest in scale than the instrument at Sainte-Croix, it was perfectly suited to the ornate Baroque church and gave us another chance to work on our French-Classical pedaling!

On the evening of Wednesday, January 8, four students—Nicholas Capozzoli, Mitchell Miller, Alcee Chris, and I—performed a short concert at the Musée des Augustins. This former monastery, which was used to store horses during the French Revolution, became a museum in the nineteenth century and is home to a North-German influenced organ built in 1981 by Jürgen Ahrend. It was here that we probably encountered the largest acoustic of our entire visit—nine seconds, which would have been closer to twelve were it not for an exhibition at the back of the space.

This was followed by a visit and reception held at Toulouse les Orgues, headquarters for the annual organ festival that brings countless organ enthusiasts to visit the numerous musical masterpieces of this city. The festival staff, headed by Yves Rechsteiner, is housed in the former Church of the Gesu, a stunning Victorian Gothic edifice. The rear gallery of the nave houses a modest two-manual Cavaillé-Coll organ in absolutely original condition.

The next day we took the train to Albi, whose cathedral dedicated to St. Cecilia—claimed to be the largest brick building in the world—is home to one of the most impressive organ cases in Europe. At the neighboring (and considerably smaller) church of Saint-Salvy, parts of which date back to the eighth century, we heard the 1930 Maurice (grandson of Théodore) Puget organ. While containing some seventeenth-century pipework and being housed in the original case (which had once been in the cathedral) this was certainly a twentieth-century instrument in the French-Romantic style.

We then returned to Toulouse; a small group of us visited the church of Saint- Nicholas, home to an 1844 organ by Callinet. This was certainly one of the hidden gems of the trip—an instrument indebted to its French-Classical predecessors, but also looking forward to the larger romantic instruments that would follow it, particularly in its foundation and solo voices.

We then took the TGV to the city of Poitiers—the birthplace of Louis Vierne. We made our way to the beautiful cathedral, home to the 1791 François-Henri Clicquot organ—one of the crown jewels of all the organs in France. Compared with the “rustic” and almost bombastic Dom Bedos in Bordeaux, this instrument was incredibly refined, with a sweet, singing tone, even in the Grand Jeu. It was therefore not surprising to learn that this is the same Clicquot family who make the famous Veuve Clicquot champagne—everything about the instrument suggested elegance and class. Our gracious host was the cathedral organist, Olivier Houette. A couple of hours later we arrived in Paris, where we were to spend the remainder of our visit. 

The next morning we took a train to the small town of Houdan, about 40 miles west of Paris, to visit the church of Saint-Christophe Saint-Jacques and play the church’s Louis-Alexandre Clicquot (father of François-Henri) organ. This was certainly an unexpected highlight of the whole trip: the instrument has remained almost completely untouched since it was built in 1734, with some of the pipework dating from as far back as 1667, making it one of the most ancient instruments in France. Sadly, this is only one of a handful of such instruments in the Paris area that survived the French Revolution. The sound of the instrument was absolutely exquisite and it was a joy to play; the pitch (ca. A=390) and meantone temperament added additional spice and color. Its modest size also made it particularly suited to playing the works of earlier French Classical composers such as Guillaume-Gabriel Nivers, François Couperin, and Nicolas de Grigny (to name but a few), despite having been constructed relatively late in the period. The organ was demonstrated by its titulaire, Régis Allard. In addition to its delightful organ, Saint-Christophe Saint-Jacques also had the distinction of being the coldest church we had visited to date, making all that French ornamentation a little tricky!

On our return to Paris, we stopped in Versailles. After a private tour of the King’s and Queen’s Apartments and the Hall of Mirrors, our host and organist of the Royal Chapel at Versailles, Jean-Baptiste Robin, gave us a wonderful demonstration of the 1994 Bertrand Cattiaux organ, which is housed in the original and lavish 1709 case. Although a modern instrument, it is a faithful reconstruction of what would have reigned supreme in the early eighteenth century. Sadly, the original Robert Clicquot of 1711 was subjected to a number of changes over the centuries eventually being replaced by a Cavaillé-Coll which was, in turn, rebuilt by Gonzales. 

The chapel itself is a fascinating space, and it would be impossible to describe in words just how beautiful and ornate it is. For one, there are no “hard” edges—everything, including the organ case, is curved—quite a contrast to the more conservative cases in Houdan and Poitiers. Unusually, the organ is above the altar, but it is customary in French churches for the organ to be behind the congregation, and in the Royal Chapel, the congregation faced the King, who would be seated in a gallery at the back of the chapel, facing the altar and the organ. Jean-Baptiste also informed us that the Holy Trinity is very important to French Roman Catholics and drew our attention to a number of allusions to the Holy Trinity in the Royal Chapel. He went onto say that it is perhaps not coincidental that the French-inspired organ works of J. S. Bach, namely Pièce d’orgue, BWV 572, and the Prelude and Fugue in E-flat, BWV 552, can also be viewed in a Trinitarian light.

 

Paris

On our only Sunday in Paris, we were encouraged to attend Mass at one of the city’s many churches. While some opted to go to Notre Dame or Saint-Sulpice, a few of us went to the church of Saint-Gervais, perhaps most famous for its association with the Couperin family who served as organists of the church for almost 200 years. The church was full for this celebration of the Mass in French. One of the most pleasant surprises was the music: although the organ provided a number of interludes at certain points of the liturgy in a variety of styles, a majority of the service was sung without accompaniment. While the singing was led by a large chorus of nuns, it was wonderful to hear the congregation joining in enthusiastically. Perhaps the most unusual, yet incredibly effective and beautiful moment of the service was during the Eucharistic prayer, when the clergy around the altar started singing in three-part harmony, accompanied by slow moving chords hummed by the nuns. It was nice to be involved in a real French parish Mass and to see that, although very different to what the Couperins would have known, music still plays an important part in the life of the parish.

Later that afternoon we made our way to La Madeleine for an organ recital performed by Vincent Grappy. It was quite a welcome surprise to see the church almost full—several even likened the audience size to an AGO convention recital. This magnificent church is perhaps most famous for hosting the premiere of Fauré’s Requiem, and we even had a chance to briefly glance at the intact Cavaillé-Coll choir organ which was used at that performance. 

Following the recital, it was time to make our pilgrimage to perhaps one of the most famous and important (especially for organists) Parisian churches—Saint- Sulpice. We received a warm welcome from the present titulaire, Daniel Roth, one of a line of distinguished musicians who have held this important and coveted post. Both Guillaume-Gabriel Nivers and Louis-Nicolas Clérambault were organists there, although neither knew the present building that was commenced in the middle of the 17th century and finally completed 100 years later. The great five-manual, 64-stop organ by François-Henri Clicquot was dedicated in 1781. It was reported that Clicquot was so happy with the results that he danced for joy during the dedication, and the organ became very famous throughout Europe. The organ survived the French Revolution in 1789 thanks to a blind organ pumper who, wishing to save the instrument, cleverly stamped the official seal of the government on the door to the gallery, making it seem as though that part of the church had already been inspected and approved.

Mendelssohn visited the church in 1833, and it was clear that the organ was in desperate need of restoration, with the renowned composer likening its sound to a choir of old women! In 1835, the builder Callinet began a restoration project that took ten years; it was ultimately unsuccessful and left him bankrupt. In 1854, one of the priests at Saint-Sulpice, a great admirer and friend of Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, declared that such a beautiful church needed two beautiful organs. And so it was that Cavaillé-Coll began work on the instrument in 1857. When it was completed five years later it was one of the three largest organs in the world. By retaining all of the Clicquot stops—which account for about 40 percent of the instrument—Cavaillé-Coll not only demonstrated his respect for the craft of his predecessors but also created an instrument that successfully melds old and new styles into a coherent whole.

If there was one thing we learned about Cavaillé-Coll, it was that he was a consummate artist whose concept was perfectly suited to the space for which it was intended. While he had very little to do with the actual building of his instruments, the concepts were his and he knew just whom to employ to get the results he wanted. This project was clearly very important to Cavaillé-Coll: following the aborted Callinet project that had cost the church a fortune, with nothing to show for it, Cavaillé-Coll’s initial proposal was for a four-manual, 74-stop instrument. Over time, the instrument grew larger with the addition of a fifth manual and 26 more stops—none of which had been contracted or paid for. It is no surprise that Cavaillé-Coll was often close to bankruptcy with many of his projects, but if he had not cared so much, we probably would not have some of the great instruments we have today.

After Saint-Sernin, we were all rather surprised at how elegant and soft-spoken the Saint-Sulpice Cavaillé-Coll was in comparison, even the tutti. The overall tone was darker and more rounded than Saint-Sernin, and this seemed totally in tune with the majestic building, creating a wash of sound that filled the room rather than launching a battery of sound directly to the other end of it. Another contributing factor to the sound is the enormous case, with its huge 32 façade pipes and colossal statues, keeping the sound contained to a certain extent.

Finally, a lucky few had the opportunity to play the instrument, and it was such a privilege to be able to hear the sounds Widor and Dupré knew and worked with. I played Dupré’s exquisite Prelude and Fugue in F minor, op. 7, no. 2. I had been warned that after playing this piece at Saint-Sulpice it would be difficult to play it anywhere else, and after hearing the first few sixteenth notes of the Prelude, on the 8 Gamba and 2Octavin of the distant Récit, I understood—the eerie sound combined with the building’s acoustic was like nothing I had ever encountered before.

The vast five-manual console required some getting used to; the Récit is the fourth manual—it used to be the fifth (!)—and therefore presented the more vertically challenged among us with quite an extensive reach. At one point, Monsieur Roth kindly held on to my shoulders to prevent me falling off the bench while both hands were playing on the Récit! He was also gracious enough to operate the hitch-down swell pedal which, being located to the far right of the console, would have required my left foot to be considerably busier than it wanted to be. Cavaillé-Coll used these until 1870, when he introduced the more convenient but certainly less expressive balanced swell pedal. 

Upon playing a wrong note, I apologized, but was told by Monsieur Roth, “Don’t worry, he [Dupré] is not here, but with Widor, we have to be far more careful . . .” Yes, Widor’s tomb is down in the crypt and we were taken down to pay homage, following our evening with Professor Roth.

The next morning we made our way to the church of Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile to hear and play the church’s Bernard Aubertin organ, in North-German Baroque style. This is one of the finest of its kind in Paris and somewhat of a rarity. It was a welcome palate cleanser at this point of the trip to hear the sound of baroque-inspired principals and a particularly beautiful double-flute stop.

Having never been inside Notre Dame, a number of us stopped in briefly to gaze in awe at the gorgeous stained glass of one of the most famous buildings in the world. Unfortunately, the main organ was then undergoing restoration work and was unplayable. We then headed up to La Trinité, the church of Guilmant and, more recently, Olivier Messiaen.

This was somewhat of a pilgrimage for me personally, being particularly devoted to the music of Messiaen, and upon arrival at the church, I was greeted with a deeply moving vision: it had been raining, but as I approached the church, the sun came out, and a perfect rainbow appeared over the church—it could not have been more appropriate with Messiaen’s love of nature and the importance of color in his music.

The organ’s curator, Olivier Glandaz, was our host and had been a close friend of Messiaen. The organ has been well cared for and is in excellent condition. It was incredibly special to be able to hear Messiaen’s music on his organ, the combination of instrument and room creating what I can only describe as a glorious “shimmer.”

Day 12 was spent in the old French town of Rouen, perhaps most famous for being the place of Joan of Arc’s martyrdom. It is also home to Cavaillé-Coll’s last organ—the mighty four-manual instrument in the former Abbey Church of Saint-Ouen, which knocked the church in Houdan to second place as the coldest building of the entire trip! While in need of thorough restoration, it was wonderful to hear (and play) this “Grand Old Lady,” and yes, that 32 reed really is as earth shattering as it sounds on recordings! Our hosts were the titular organist Marie-Andrée Morisset-Balier and her husband, trumpet virtuoso Michel Morisset.

Upon our return to Paris, we visited the van der Heuvel organ at Saint-Eustache, beautifully demonstrated for us by Vincent Crosnier, Jean Guillou’s assistant. 

Our penultimate day in France began at the Paris Regional Conservatory where those students who didn’t perform in Toulouse played a concert on the school’s Grenzing organ—the same instrument used for the preliminary rounds of the Chartres International Organ Competition. The performers were Richard Gray, Rees Roberts, Abraham Ross, Jillian Gardner, Albert Bellefeuille, Matthew Buller, Donald VerKuilen, and Jay Yau. Following the concert, Sylvie Mallet, the current professor of organ, and Marie-Louise Langlais, professor emerita of organ, were our hosts and joined us for lunch at a small restaurant that was once frequented by the likes of Debussy, Ravel, and Poulenc.

That afternoon, we visited the church of Saint-Roch where Claude-Bénigne Balbastre, Louis James Alfred Lefébure-Wely, and Pierre Cochereau are among its most notable titulaires. The instrument, built by Cavaillé-Coll but retaining all the reeds from the previous Clicquot organ, is equally suited to French Classical music as it is to French Romantic music. The magnificent oak case also dates from the original Clicquot organ and contained the only clock we had seen which actually worked! While the music of Lefébure-Wely may not be all that sophisticated, hearing it on this thrilling instrument, in the highly-ornate Baroque church only a short walk from the Paris Opera certainly helped to put the music in context. Our host was the present titulaire, Françoise Levéchin-Gangloff.

The Cathedral Basilica of Saint-Denis was our final stop for the day. This former Benedictine Abbey—the first gothic building in the world—was incredibly powerful in its day and is particularly famous for being the final resting place of the French Kings. This association with French royalty, however, meant that it suffered greatly during the Revolution. One of the most damaging occurrences was the removal of the abbey’s roof (almost certainly so it could be melted down and made into other things), leaving the large and fine eighteenth-century organ open to the elements for twenty years. This organ was eventually removed in the hope that it would be restored one day, but it ended up being poorly stored and was entirely lost. It is quite likely that much of the instrument still exists in pieces throughout the organs of Paris, but we shall never know for certain.

In 1833, the French State decided to have a new organ built for this important church, and the 22-year-old Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, who had just moved from Toulouse to Paris (at the suggestion of Rossini), submitted a proposal that won the contract. The organ was eventually completed in 1841, having been delayed due to the lack of an organ case, which was the responsibility of the church’s architect. The delay, however, worked in Cavaillé-Coll’s favor because it was during this time that he met Charles Barker. Owing to the size of the instrument, the mechanical action was incredibly stiff and heavy, but the new “machine” of Charles Barker changed all this.

The Saint-Denis Cavaillé-Coll, while by no means perfect, was revolutionary in organ building and was the prototype for everything that followed, especially in Cavaillé-Coll’s own work. Not only was it the first instrument to make use of the new Barker machine, it also had the first harmonic flute and trumpet stops. That being said, Cavaillé-Coll never cited the instrument as one of which he was particularly proud.

Pierre Pincemaille has been titulaire at Saint-Denis since 1987 and is one of the greatest improvisers in the world, having studied with the legendary Pierre Cochereau. He improvised for us on the hymn tune Down Ampney, enabling us to hear the many colors of this important instrument.

Our final day in Paris began at Saint-Gervais, where everyone had the opportunity to see and play the 1768 François-Henri Clicquot organ, which retains much pipework from the c. 1680 organ of François Thierry. Here again, while several of us had the opportunity to listen to the organ during Sunday liturgy, now we all had the unique opportunity to experience the masterpiece firsthand.

That afternoon, we reconvened at the Basilica of Sainte-Clotilde—set back almost out of sight except for its two spires, which can be glimpsed on the Paris skyline. A number of great organists have been associated with this famous church: César Franck, Charles Tournemire, and Jean Langlais. Sadly, very little of the organ Franck knew remains, the instrument having been electrified and, beginning with Tournemire, altered tonally to embrace the aesthetics of the new neo-classical movement. Nevertheless, it was interesting to hear the music of Tournemire and Langlais on the instrument for which it was conceived. The original Franck console is now in a museum in Belgium, having been bequeathed by Tournemire to his friend, Flor Peeters. The organ was rebuilt in 1999–2005 by former titulaire, the late Jacques Taddei, with the addition of two new consoles, a 32 Contra Bombarde, and a Trompette-en-chamade, placed on the floor of the second gallery at the location of the old console.

And so, as our two weeks drew to a close, we arrived at the final church of our visit, Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, where Monsieur and Madame Maurice Duruflé had spent many years working and living in a small apartment just across the street. It felt especially humbling to be so “close” to these two towering figures in the world of organ music, and while we all have our favorites, I’m not sure I can think of anyone who doesn’t adore the music of Monsieur and the playing of Madame.

The church itself is very elegant—not unlike Duruflé’s music—and is home to the only rood screen (a beautiful, stone structure) and the oldest organ case in Paris, dating from 1633. Duruflé was also influenced by the neo-classical movement and this can be heard in the clear and bright sound of the instrument, making it especially good for counterpoint. After a stunning improvisation by Thierry Escaich on “Happy Birthday” (performed in honor of Donald VerKuilen’s 19th birthday), Alcee Chris performed Duruflé’s Toccata from Suite, op. 5, and Nicholas Capozzoli performed Escaich’s Évocation II for the composer.

I shall confess that writing this report has been incredibly difficult. It is almost impossible to express in words all that we experienced and learned on this amazing trip. One could easily write an entire article on just one of these churches and its rich musical and cultural heritage—we visited 31 organs in 13 days! Nevertheless, it is my hope that this overview will inspire further research—the Internet has a wealth of information and recordings of almost all the instruments we visited—and if you are able, go to France to see these masterpieces for yourself. We could not have been more warmly welcomed and it was clear that all those whom we met were very proud of their history and delighted to share it with others. Just be prepared to do LOTS of walking! 

The University of Michigan Historic Organ Tour 50

Carl Parks

Carl Parks, a freelance writer, is organist-choirmaster of Gloria Dei Lutheran Church in Holmes Beach, Florida, and a past dean of the Sarasota-Manatee Chapter of the American Guild of Organists. Photographs are by the author.

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Saxony’s Organs and Bachfest Leipzig 2004: A study tour of Bach, Luther & Silbermann

Every organist dreams of playing the Saxony region’s baroque organs that were designed, performed on, and approved by Johann Sebastian Bach. That, combined with the annual Bachfest Leipzig 2004, proved irresistible.

The annual Bach Festival in Leipzig, Germany--with day trips to hear and play over a dozen historic organs, many known to J. S. Bach--provided 27 of us an unforgettable study tour May 12 to 26. The tour included 16 festival concerts, lectures by Bach scholar Dr. Christoph Wolff of Harvard University, guided tours of the cities visited, and the opportunity for masterclasses with Thomaskirche organist Ulrich Böhme. It was Historic Organ Tour 50 led by the University of Michigan’s University Organist Dr. Marilyn Mason.

After a bus tour and night in Berlin, we proceeded on May 14 to Wittenberg. Our walking tour took us through the Luther House, which is the world’s largest museum of Reformation history, and the Schloßkirche, where Martin Luther presented his 95 theses and is now buried. After lunch next door in the Schloßkeller we arrived in Leipzig on time for the festival’s opening concert at the Thomaskirche, where Bach was Kantor for 27 years. Three settings of Psalm 98, by Bach (BWV 225 and 190) and Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy (Opus 91) were given a world-class performance by the church’s boys’ choir, soloists, and the Gewandhaus orchestra conducted by Georg Christoph Biller. The Sinfonia in D from the Easter Oratorio (BWV 249) opened the concert.

Leipzig

Our walking tour of Leipzig the next morning showed a city coming to life again since the collapse of the German Democratic Republic (DDR) and the reunification of Germany. Construction is everywhere. Historic buildings are being cleaned and restored, while the big, vacant housing projects and other Stalinist architecture are about to be torn down. One grim building about to be razed sits on the site of the University Church, which the Communists dynamited. The church will be rebuilt with an organ designed but never built by Gottfried Silbermann, the great master of organ building during the baroque era. Unfortunately, unemployment in Leipzig is around 20 percent, while in other eastern cities of the former DDR it is as high as 28 percent.

Leipzig is a city of music. Excellent street musicians play the classics everywhere within the ancient confines of this once-walled burg. Walks to the Bach Museum, Mendelssohn House, Musical Instrument Museum or a concert are always a treat. We often paused to hear a flautist, a xylophonist, even a full brass choir playing Henry Purcell’s Trumpet Tune in D.

Thomaskirche

The first of Saturday’s three festival concerts opened with Ulrich Böhme playing Bach’s Passacaglia and Fugue on the Bach Organ in the north gallery of Thomaskirche. This 4-manual, 60-stop organ was built by Woehl in 2000 and replaces an earlier 3-manual instrument built in 1966 by Schuke. It duplicates the organ that Bach knew as a boy in Eisenach. While its location is certainly not what Bach would specify, the large-scale principals and overall tonal design provide the “gravitas” he found so necessary. And the organ sounds well throughout the church despite its location on the side. Jürgen Wolf playing all 30 Goldberg Variations on harpsichord at Nikolaikirche followed. The evening concert in the Gewandhaus featured fortepianos and orchestra in performances of Bach and Mendelssohn works.

Sunday’s services at Thomaskirche and Nikolaikirche are like those in Bach’s day and always include the performance of a Bach cantata at the liturgy of the word. The afternoon festival concert, again on the Thomaskirche Bach Organ, was a reconstruction of Mendelssohn’s organ recital of August 6, 1840, performed by Michael Schönheit. His improvisation on the Passion Chorale in the style of Mendelssohn was similar in structure to the Sixth Sonata and brought a standing ovation, a much less common occurrence in Europe than the United States.

Among the many excellent concerts, Matthias Eisenberg’s Ascension Day performance of  Max Reger’s Fantasie and Fugue on B-A-C-H stands out in particular. The entire sell-out crowd remained through a long, standing ovation until he improvised an equally stunning encore on Thomaskirche’s west gallery organ. That instrument was built by Wilhelm Sauer in 1899, who then extended it to 88 stops in 1907. A fund to restore this big tubular pneumatic has so far raised 100,000 of the 300,000 euros being sought.

Nikolaikirche

A similar romantic organ is almost restored in the west gallery of Nikolaikirche, but was not ready for this year’s Bachfest. It was built by Friedrich Ladegast in 1862 and expanded to 84 stops by Sauer from 1902 to 1903. Near the apse, the church also has a 17-stop organ that was built by Eule in 2002 in the style of Italian organs of the baroque era. As Kantor of Thomaskirche, J. S. Bach was also was the city’s civic director of music, giving him duties at Nikolaikirche. Thus, it was here that many of his cantatas and other works were performed for the first time.

Rötha

A bus trip on May 17 took us to Rötha, a city with two Silbermann organs. Dedicated in 1721 by Johann Kuhnau, the Silbermann in St. George church was the model for the Marilyn Mason Organ built by Fisk for the University of Michigan. A smaller Silbermann at St. Mary’s church was dedicated in 1722. Some of our group joined a masterclass with Ulrich Böhme, while others went on to Weimar. The pedalboards on these old Silbermann organs take some getting used. Not only are they flat, but the spacing is different from modern pedalboards. They also lack a low C-sharp and other notes at the top end. As Marilyn Mason explained, heel and toe pedaling worked out for pieces learned on a modern pedalboard must be changed to a technique using mostly the toes.

European acoustics demand slower tempi and proper phrasing to a greater extent then the dry acoustics of most American churches. For speech reinforcement, Germans take an approach that differs from our boom-box public address systems. Stässer loudspeakers, measuring approximately 18 x 21/2 x 21/2 inches, are mounted on each of a church’s columns, with electronic reinforcement delayed to match the time sound takes to travel. This permits clarity of the spoken word without compromising the divine ambiance for which the music was composed.

Gottfried Silbermann

Gottfried Silbermann was born in 1683, the son of a craftsman-woodworker. From 1702 to 1707 he studied organ-building with his elder brother Andreas in Strasbourg and Thiery in Paris. A condition was that Gottfried would not work in his brother’s territory. So in 1710 Gottfried returned to his native Saxony and set up shop centrally in Freiberg. His first commission was for a small, one-manual and pedal, 15-stop organ for his hometown of Frauenstein. So well-received was this first instrument, completed in 1711, that in the same year Freiberg’s Dom St. Marien (Cathedral of St. Mary) invited the young builder, then only 28 years old, to construct a new organ of three manuals and pedal with 44 stops. This was completed in 1714. Thereafter Silbermann built some 45 instruments, 31 of which are still extant. All are located within or very close to the Saxon borders. 

Gottfried Silbermann was given the official title of Court Organbuilder by Frederick I, at that time King of Poland and Duke of Saxony. Similarly, J. S. Bach had the title of Court Composer. The two were great friends, and often discussed the techniques and acoustics of organ building. Silbermann was Carl Philipp Emmanuel Bach’s godfather and a regular visitor to the Bach home in Leipzig. The two even worked together on the escapement mechanism for the world’s first fortepianos.

Silbermann believed that an organ should look as beautiful as it sounds, and his organ cases are truly beautiful. Also, in a play on words of his name, this “silver man” was known for the silver sound of his pipes. His organs typically have a Hauptwerk that is scaled for gravitas, a Brustwerk scaled to be delicate, an Oberwerk to be penetrating, and a Pedal scaled for a grandness of sound that produces foundation without necessarily using a lot of pipes. Compared to Arp Schnitger, the organs of Silbermann are more spacious with the pipes less densely arranged. 

Eisleben and Halle

Another bus trip took us to Eisleben. Here we visited the houses where Martin Luther was born and died, and the church where he was baptized. Further on in Halle, we stopped to play two organs in the Marktkirche, where Georg Friedrich Händel was baptized and learned to play the organ. That organ is a one-manual instrument of six stops built in 1664 by Reichel. It has all of its original pipes as well as meantone tuning. At the other end is a much larger organ in a baroque case. It is a three-manual, 40-stop instrument built by Schuke in 1984. Both had recently been restored, following extensive damage to the church from a broken city steam pipe. We then visited the Handel House, which has several chamber organs, and we took turns playing the newly restored organ built by Johann Gottlieb Mauer in 1770.

Altenburg, Störmthal and Pomßen

On May 21 we visited Altenburg. It is here that Heinrich Trost built an organ in the Schloßkirche from 1736 to 1739, the same year Bach played it. Eule restored it in the mid-1970s. After walking up well-worn stone steps in one of the castle’s circular stairwells, we found ourselves in the balcony opposite this magnificent instrument. Demonstrating was Dr. Felix Friedrich, a scholar of Johann Ludwig Krebs. Marilyn Mason, who was familiar with the instrument, pulled stops for those of us who played and offered suggestions. Among the more interesting stops is a viola that speaks with an attack and harmonic development nearly identical to that of a bowed string instrument, making it ideal for trio sonatas. 

Further on in the village church of Störmthal is the only Hildebrandt organ still in its original condition. Zacharias Hildebrandt was a student of Gottfried Silbermann. He built the two-manual instrument that was inspected and approved by his friend J. S. Bach in 1723. Kantor Thomas Orlovski demonstrated the instrument and registered it for those of us who played. 

The afternoon took us to Pomßen’s 750-year-old Wehrkirche. Originally built as a fortress, this Romanesque church is home to the oldest organ in Saxony. The instrument has one manual and pedals that play 12 stops, plus a Cimbelstern and Vogelgesang. Built in 1570, the organ was purchased second-hand to save money, and it was installed in 1690. It has been well maintained since its restoration in 1934 and was a thrill to play. 

Naumburg

Several of us had expressed an interest in playing the newly restored organ in Wenzelkirche, Naumburg, which was not on our tour. It is the largest instrument built by Zacharias Hildebrandt from 1743 to 1746, comprising 53 stops on three manuals and pedals. His old teacher Gottfried Silbermann examined the instrument and approved it, finding it to be as beautiful as his own but much larger. J. S. Bach had assisted with its design; and, when he played it, he found all the qualities he liked: thundering basses, strong mixtures, and beautiful solo stops. We convinced enough in our group to charter a bus and rent the organ the morning of May 22. 

Words can describe neither the baroque splendor nor the divine ambience of the vast St. Wenzel interior. There, Kantor Irene Greulich demonstrated the organ. Frau Greulich is a fine organist who has performed and given masterclasses at the University of Michigan. She and Marilyn Mason have a friendship that began before Germany’s reunification, when the organ had been playable from an electro-pneumatic console of the 1930s in the balcony below. They registered the organ for those of us who played, thus ensuring that nobody touched the original pen and ink inscriptions in the drawknobs.

A walk to the Dom SS. Peter and Paul revealed a handsome new organ under construction in a fenced-in area in the nave. No information was available, but among the pipes to be installed were wooden resonators, presumably for a Posaune. The building is late Romanesque and Gothic from the 13th century.

That evening we attended a very fine concert of The Creation by Joseph Haydn at the Hochschüle for Music and Theater. It was sung by soloists and choir from the school and the Leipzig Baroque Orchestra, Roland Borger conducting. We heard it as Die Schöpfung, Haydn’s own translation from English for German audiences.

The last day of Bachfest included breathtaking performances of the St. Matthew Passion, the Mass in B Minor, and pieces written for organ, four hands, played by Ulrich Böhme and his wife Martina at Thomaskirche. The Matthäus-Passion performance was a reconstruction of that given by Mendelssohn on April 4, 1841. Thus, orchestration made use of instruments that had replaced those of Bach’s time. A continuo organ was played with the orchestra. The chorales, however, made use of the Gewandhaus’ 89-stop instrument built in 1981 by the Schuke-Orgelbau of Potsdam. The festival closing concert of the B-minor Mass was in Thomaskirche, with 85-year-old Eric Ericson conducting.

Freiberg and Frauenstein

After we checked out of our hotel, our bus took us southeast to Freiberg. There, in the Freiberg Dom we played two fine Silbermann organs. The larger was built from 1711 to 1714 and has a particularly remarkable case with ornamentation by Johann Adam Georgi. It has 44 stops across three manuals and pedal. The small organ of 1719 has 14 stops on one manual and pedal. 

We continued to the Silbermann Museum in Frauenstein, located in a medieval castle, and the only organ museum devoted to just one builder. There, Dr. Marilyn Mason played a short recital on the museum’s replica of a Silbermann organ. It is a copy by Wegscheider Organ Builders, Dresden, of an instrument Silbermann built in 1732 for Etzdorf, and is a working model demonstrating the basic principles of Baroque organ construction.

Part of the attraction of a Marilyn Mason tour is her ability to unlock the doors to organ lofts. She was the first woman to have played in Westminster Abbey, Egypt, and many other places around the world. She is also a very helpful coach in unlocking the secrets of performance for a broad array of organ literature. Dr. Mason offered our group many pointers on the performance of baroque music, and personally advised me on ways to practice the difficult passages and tricky rhythms of Jehan Alain’s Trois Danses, which she had worked out for her own brilliant performances.

Dresden

In Dresden, our excellent tour leader, Franz Mittermayr of Matterhorn Travel, treated us with a surprise visit to the Hofkirche (Roman Catholic cathedral). There we played the magnificent three-manual, 47-stop Silbermann of 1755 that had been hidden in the countryside during World War II. This cathedral was destroyed in the allied firebombing, but the organ was back among us in a newly restored building. For that we gave grateful thanks. Unfortunately, another fine Silbermann in the Frauenkirche was destroyed. A 3-million euro restoration of that church is nearing completion using original, numbered stones wherever possible. A new organ will replicate the destroyed Silbermann. 

It has been said that Germany has too many churches. This is because, like elsewhere, church attendance is down. In Germany approximately nine percent of the population is Protestant, while two percent is Roman Catholic. In the former DDR of Eastern Germany under the Communists, religion was discouraged, so attendance fell even further. Maintaining and restoring these ancient churches is beyond the reach of most congregations, so they survive through tourism and entrance fees. Many are considered museums and are given government funding. In Naumburg, for example, the city paid for the restoration of the Hildebrandt organ. On average, a group pays an entrance fee of 150 euros or about $185 U.S. for each church visited. In Leipzig, the group paid entrance fees on top of concert ticket prices. This was all included in the cost of our tour. An organist traveling alone to play benefit recitals will pay rental fees of similar amounts. 

For a first visit to the Saxony region, this tour provided the best way to play these instruments and learn about them. While our personal playing times were seldom more than five minutes each, the cost was spread over the entire group. An organ tour also makes all the preliminary arrangements to open doors that are otherwise locked. The University of Michigan is known for its excellent tours, and this one proved why. Matterhorn Travel provided us with a guide who had extensive knowledge of the area, numerous contacts, and the ability to run things so smoothly that we never encountered delays.

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